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Old 10-26-2008, 01:56 PM   #16
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Those couplings probably replaced the original problem (leaking joints). Maybe the seller "rigged" it to, at least, get the leak stopped?? No telling. Sounds like this could be a foreclosure/repo?? No lights in a finished basement makes me think so.......power is off I'd guess.


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Old 10-26-2008, 02:12 PM   #17
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if it were me, id be happy finding that before closing the deal. You now can get a free bathroom remodel out of the deal. But ya, as you probably already know, Its not the replacing the subfloor thats going to be spendy, its the refinishing of the finished floor and finish over the tub.
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Old 10-26-2008, 02:22 PM   #18
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Take a closer look at those supply pipes, they are stained from leaks in addition to the drain pipes, and show no signs of repair? Also look at the location of the stains on the subfloor, they appear to be under the wall, not the tub; I would go back and run that shower for an extended period, then check the wood with a moisture meter. A flashlight aimed into a mechanics mirror might help you see the whole picture, and if there is an additional bath above this one, check it out as well.

Looks like a good 5K discount, to me
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Old 10-26-2008, 02:51 PM   #19
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5K on the conservative side I'd say. There's damage to be repaired in the basement too. I'm assuming it's finished. So drywall repair, paint, & flooring at the minimum..... If it's unfinished, insulation (if not heated) and ceiling repair/paint.
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Old 10-31-2008, 01:29 AM   #20
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Hi everybody!
Sorry for not noticing this before, have been off. I appreciate the feedback and pointers.

The power is on, there is light now in the basement. The switchboard in the basement is not working. It's an estate sale.

We have had 2 contractors look at it and the verdict is that the structural is fine but some of those subflooring planks are bad lol. They are soft to the touch infact.
There have been small leaks from between the wall tiles due to missing grout in several places. God knows how long it has been that way, that may be why the damage is so extensive and wide spread. Possibly some of the walls need to be replaced aswell because of this.

We got the price down before we knew about this.
One of the contractors whould change the floor tiling, put new grout on top over the old on the walls, repair the subframe and put new floor tiles for $2K. I am not sure right now if that included moving the tub.
Some of those really bad planks continue in under the bedroom closet btw.

Around $400 is what a band-aid fix whould cost, where they only reinforce the structure. One of the contractors said that could hold 10 years, he didn't think the tub whould fall down. The sellers wants to pay for the band-aid fix and that is where we are standing now pretty much.

I do agree that we sure are glad we found out about this mess before hand.

Last edited by avicenna; 10-31-2008 at 01:33 AM.
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Old 10-31-2008, 07:22 AM   #21
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I don't agree with the accessment of the 2k guy. If water has been getting behind the tile, I would gut the tub area completely. I'd also remove all the flooring. The damage will extend to the stud wall and sheathing. There's a good chance there is mold growth behind the walls. The problem is the damage you see is only the tip of the issue. It usually is.
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Old 10-31-2008, 07:33 AM   #22
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personally, if i were a buyer, i think i'd just walk away from this one....

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Old 11-01-2008, 11:48 AM   #23
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Actually. there really is not any damage there that can not be repaired. Most of the hard work would be in the demolition. As this is a do-it-yourself site, you really should consider doing it yourself. It is not all that hard, and since you would be providing the labor, you could do it for well under $2k (depending on what replacement materials you use). It's a little hard to tell from the picture, but it looks like that is a cast iron tub. It takes a little bit of elbow grease, but a sledge hammer will break it up into easy to carry chunks. Be sure to wear proper safety gear (eye protection, gloves ) as the porcelean will shatter into tiny little shards that will fly everywhere. If it is steel, then you can cut it in half with a reciprocating saw. Since, as you said, you do not know how long the tile grout has been bad and letting water pass, just plan on tearing that out as well and putting up new dura rock and update the tile. You can either put in a new tub, (I'd go with acryllic) or convert it to a shower if preferred. You have easy access to the plumbing, so that can be replaced easily as well. Depending on it's age and condition, I'd seriously consider replacing the valve while you have the walls open.
It does look as if the subfloor damage will require removing the existing floor as well. Another opportunity to update the flooring too! lol
If you do not know anything about laying tile, alot of the home centers have free classes on setting tile. You can save alot of money doing it yourself, especially if you can borrow some of the tools that you need but do not already own.
And of course there is the wealth of information that is available on this site.
Good luck, and let us know how it goes!
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Old 11-01-2008, 12:57 PM   #24
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Water damage can cause the problems seen in this photo. As the water evaporates it will leave residue. This does not mean it is rotten. Rotting wood only happens when it is exposed to constant water and is not allowed to dry out. Contrary to popular opinion dry rot is not dry. It is created when excessive moisture and lack of air movement allows fungus to grow that lives off cellulose. It has to have moisture to survive. Take away the moisture and the fungus dies.

Stick a screwdriver in the wood. If there is any flaking or soft spots it will need to be replaced.

Another thing is what was the problem and was it fixed. Bad pipe, bad drain, leaking tub, flooring not sealed well??? I see no indication that the problem was resolved.

Above all get a second opinion by another inspector.
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Old 09-04-2011, 08:15 AM   #25
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Fix Rotted Wood Floor Without Removing Bathtub

Here's how I replaced my rotted wood floor beneath the tub on the 2nd story of my house...
  • Cut out the rot to w/in 6 inches of the tub wall. Opening should be big enough to allow you to hammer inside hole. Edges must terminate in the middle of joists. (In my case, it was about 3'x3'.) It's a good idea to drop a small test hole first to make sure you're not going to hit any plumbing or electric.
  • Liberally paint remaining rotted wood with antifreeze. This kills living rot/bugs, and stays in the wood without discoloration.
  • After antifreeze dries, drill a 1 inch matrix of holes in rot. (If wood is 3/4 inch, hole-depth should be 1/2 inch - 5/8 inch).
  • Fill with epoxy wood penetrant. This strengthens and stabilizes the wood.
  • Install solid braces 16 inch o.c. between the joists. If the joists are 2x10, use 2x8 so you have room to maneuver. Place braces on outside edges of hole to support both old floor and new. The braces will likely run under the tub. (If space is too tight for toe-nailing, your lumber yard sells sheet metal corners designed for this purpose. Apply with roofing nails and/or deck screws.) Pull the braces up to the old floor with deck screws running through the old floor into the braces.
  • Clean old OSB off exposed joists, then glue+screw-in new OSB floor.
  • Make the repaired area level with old floor by topping it off with a cement-based leveling/patching compound. (Fills gaps up to 1/2 inch)
Install new floor covering. Live long and be happy.


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