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-   -   Rotten sill plate in garage - repair strategy? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/rotten-sill-plate-garage-repair-strategy-148545/)

Simon96Taco 06-28-2012 08:56 PM

Rotten sill plate in garage - repair strategy?
 
So, I have an existing garage that appears to be built on a flat concrete pad. The builder decided not to build a concrete footer/stub wall, and instead chose to lay a 2 x 4 sill plate (NOT pressure treated lumber) directly on the concrete. The wall studs go down to this sill plate, which is continually getting wet and I fear is rotting (or will be rotten before long)

Some of the obvious problems:
- moisture from the concrete soaking the untreated wood
- pooling water from rain that is finding its way into the garage (two or three leaky areas)…and then of course soaking the untreated wood.
- snow melt as it falls off my vehicle in the winter..pooling…and soaking the untreated wood.

This all adds up to a rotting sill plate.

I had two ideas to remedy the solution:

1. Support the existing walls with jacks/temp framing, cut 4" off the bottom of the existing studs and stuff a pressure treated 4x4 underneath, then run caulking along the joint between the garage floor and the 4x4 to try and keep water from seeping in.

2. Support the walls as above, cut the studs as above, and somehow pour a concrete footer, 4" wide by about 6" high.

Option 1 seems easiest, but I don't know if the 4x4 will continue to transfer moisture to the studs above it, and I don't know if it will really keep water out of the garage.

Option 2 seems like the best solution, but I really have no idea how to go about retrofitting a concrete footing wall into the existing situation.

A couple of other potential complications I’m not sure how to handle are:

- Gas line running into the garage – I believe this prevents me from moving the garage upwards much, if any, during the jacking/supporting process.
- Wood siding on the outside…not sure if this is attached to the studs that I’ll be cutting? Shouldn’t be the end of the world, but will definitely add work. The siding is often at or below grade on the outside, which I believe to be yet another problem with the way the garage was built, incidentally.

I'm hoping to get some feedback about which of the above is best and how to execute either of these options. Also very much open to alternate suggestions to fixing my problem. I've never attempted something like this but am confident that with a good plan and maybe an extra pair of hands I can tackle this!

Thanks in advance!
Simon

PS, lots of pics to follow to help illustrate

Simon96Taco 06-28-2012 08:59 PM

6 Attachment(s)
Pics of the exterior, all 4 sides:

Simon96Taco 06-28-2012 09:02 PM

6 Attachment(s)
Some interior pics of the sill plate (notice the concrete walkway outside lying above some wood framing at the man-door location).

Simon96Taco 06-28-2012 09:04 PM

2 Attachment(s)
And a couple of general interior shots - note the large workbench I'm going to have to move to do the job.

I plan on ripping out all the insulation prior to this project, and reinsulating once the will plate issue is fixed.

joecaption 06-28-2012 09:26 PM

Remover the siding along the bottom of the wall up over 2 ft. mark a chaulk line at 24". Cut out the sheathing.
Mark the studs on the inside at 10" from the floor.
Cut out the studs and remove them and the bottom plate.
Clean the slab off and lay 8" concrete blocks. Fill some of the voids with concrete and install 10" foundation bolts.( Check you local code on placement, just make sue there between the studs.)
Once it sets up install pressure treated 2 X 6 bottom plate to the blocks, lower the wall and toe nail in place.
Reinstall sheathing and siding. The sheathing and siding should be no closer then 6" from the grade when your done.

CopperClad 06-28-2012 09:34 PM

What joe had said would work.. I would be worried about lifting the garage up 4'' and keeping it stabilized... sorry, I reread. Joe has a solid plan. Go with it !

CopperClad 06-28-2012 09:41 PM

Actually, I think you just need to cut the studs at 14''.. Then it is a solid plan..

joecaption 06-28-2012 09:43 PM

There's no need to try and lift the whole garage at one time, doing it my way you can do one wall at a time.
I'm stuck doing the exact same thing to a garage in a house I just moved into. No pressure treated bottom plate, slab below grade at the front, whole drive way slopes toward the garage.
What in the world were they thinking, hmm.

CopperClad 06-28-2012 09:46 PM

Sorry.. I need to think more before I type. 8'' block. 10'' bolts.. 1 1/2'' plate. So my first response was right.. You would have to lift the garage 4 inches in order to clear the bolts and the bottom plate.

Simon96Taco 06-28-2012 09:48 PM

Thanks for the feedback so far. I'm going to expose my rookie DIY status with a few dumb questions now ;)

1. What is "sheathing"? I assume it is the plywood that is laid on the outside of the studs, between the studs/siding?
2. How do I go about removing/replacing siding without destroying it? I had one small piece fall off on the front of the garage (to the left of the pic that is facing the open door) at ground level, and basically couldn't get it back on right. I screwed it into the sheathing(?) but it is bent and warped. I'd be scared to try and remove the big, long pieces all around the perimeter!
3. Anchor bolts - do you just free set these in the wet concrete, with the threads pointed up? And then drill holes in the 2x6 so they poke through the 2x6 such that you can thread a nut/washer on it?

Simon96Taco 06-28-2012 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CopperClad (Post 953662)
Sorry.. I need to think more before I type. 8'' block. 10'' bolts.. 1 1/2'' plate. So my first response was right.. You would have to lift the garage 4 inches in order to clear the bolts and the bottom plate.

I must not be able to picture what's happening here, because I'm lost as to why the 4" lift is required....?

CopperClad 06-28-2012 10:13 PM

I think I'm lost too.. :yes: It would only be 2''..

joecaption 06-28-2012 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Simon96Taco (Post 953663)
Thanks for the feedback so far. I'm going to expose my rookie DIY status with a few dumb questions now ;)

1. What is "sheathing"? I assume it is the plywood that is laid on the outside of the studs, between the studs/siding?
2. How do I go about removing/replacing siding without destroying it? I had one small piece fall off on the front of the garage (to the left of the pic that is facing the open door) at ground level, and basically couldn't get it back on right. I screwed it into the sheathing(?) but it is bent and warped. I'd be scared to try and remove the big, long pieces all around the perimeter!
3. Anchor bolts - do you just free set these in the wet concrete, with the threads pointed up? And then drill holes in the 2x6 so they poke through the 2x6 such that you can thread a nut/washer on it?

Yes sheathing is the plywood.
Your not going to need the bottom piece again so you can use a cat's paw pry bar and just hammer it into the wood to dig out the bottom nails, once there out you tap in a flat bar under the siding to get the next nails loose, once they start to come out most of the time you can just tap the siding and the heads will stick out enough to pry them out.
There's most likly going to be hidden nails at the top of the pieces that will need to be cut out with a 12" Bimetal fine tooth sawsall blade.
It's not going to matter if there trashed, it's a common item at any lumber yard.
Yes the foundation bolts are in an L shape, the threads face up and need to be about 2 1/2" above the top of the blocks.
They come with nuts and washers. There installed in the middle of the void in the block.
I use 1/2 bolt and drill the holes 5/8 with a paddle bit. I just slide the 2 X 6 againt the bolt and use a combination square to transfure a line from the middle of the bolt. Then I set the square againt the side of the block to the middle of the screw and make a mark on the 2 X 6. (you do it this way because it's near impossible to get all the bolts exactly in the middle.)
Now bore the holes.

CopperClad 06-28-2012 10:16 PM

I agree that Joe's fix is the best option for you. The problem with it is that you can't slide the 2x6 plate onto the bolts with the wall being there.. Therefore you would need to raise the wall 2'' in order for that to happen.

joecaption 06-28-2012 10:20 PM

I'd start with 2" but it may just a little more if some of the bolts are set to high.


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