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-   -   Rotted Sill Plate and Joists (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/rotted-sill-plate-joists-51915/)

jhawk4ever 08-29-2009 03:41 PM

Rotted Sill Plate and Joists
 
House: Two-story, built on slab in 1993.

We bought this house about two years ago. My wife put her hand on the wall underneath our window and her hand went completely through. I opened the wall and found among other things that water was getting in from the outside behind the window shutters because it was never caulked since it was built. The water leaked in to one point around the window and followed the king stud and the jack stud to the floor on one side of the window

This gets worse because the builder never put a vapor barrier over the exterior wallboard and we have about 4' of brick on the outside. Looks like the brick was wicking up water and the exterior wall board is crumbling behind the brick as well as from the water from the exterior leak.

Both the king stud and the jack stud were both rotted out completely at the bottom for about 2' and it crumbled apart on touch.

The sill plate is rotted in a small section around 6" and but not completely through about 1/2 " on the top.


Questions

1. Do I need to completely remove the sill plate if it is such a small section? The section that is rotted is where the jack and king stud connect to the sill plate.

2. Should I use some of the composite material to build up the 2x4

3. Should I cut the small section out?

Thanks

Gary in WA 08-29-2009 11:55 PM

1. Do I need to completely remove the sill plate if it is such a small section? The section that is rotted is where the jack and king stud connect to the sill plate. = Yes, or the window could break when the supporting stud and trimmer fail and settle. (at any time)

2. Should I use some of the composite material to build up the 2x4 = No, use a pressure treated 2x4 plate with anchor bolts drilled into the slab.

3. Should I cut the small section out? = Yes, as above with sill sealer under, or caulking- 3 beads.
There should be a house wrap or builder's tar paper over the exterior wall board to stop moisture from soaking said material. There should be weep holes in the brick veneer wall at the bottom, every few feet to drain any condensation. Caulk the shutters' attachment bolt holes. Make sure there is metal flashing under the bottom siding piece onto the brick. Lift the flashing's edge on the brick, run a bead of caulking there.
The rot is the end result of the fungus growing there. Google- "dry rot" or "fungus". You may need to spray with water and a 10% bleach solution to stop it.

Be safe, G

Thurman 08-30-2009 08:03 PM

GBAR is correct. I've seen many of these situations and always tell the homeowner: If you want me to "FIX" this then I will replace all of the affected lumber and do it right, or you can call someone else who will "repair" it using epoxy and other means which will not last. I have to sleep after I finish a customers job, and I can't do it if I "patch" it. GBAR's answer may not have been the one you wanted to hear but it is the best approach as to doing the job correctly. Good Luck, David


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