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Old 10-24-2008, 08:53 PM   #1
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roof end wall question


i need some help with a roof end wall, i have a drawing i made to explain my question

would this setup work? i have the rafter over top of the end wall, but i dont know if that is the right way to do it. anyone got any help for this? and are my rafters the right size? i put down 2x6 but if needed i can change it. should the pitch be increased or would a 4 12 be enough?

this drawing is only half the roof, i didnt have enough room to do the full width with overhang on the paper

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Old 10-25-2008, 03:55 PM   #2
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roof end wall question


That's called a gable wall. You're making extra work for yourself by including that top plate and then having to cut all of the stud ends on an angle. Simply make all of the studs a few inches longer to run up the side of the rafter, ending just short of its top, and then nail into them from the opposite side of the rafter. A top plate is completely unnecessary in this application.

2x6 rafters sound a bit light for that span, depending on your location and possible snow load. 4/12 pitch is typical for most house roofs.

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Old 10-25-2008, 05:00 PM   #3
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roof end wall question


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Originally Posted by Tinstaafl View Post
...You're making extra work for yourself by including that top plate and then having to cut all of the stud ends on an angle. Simply make all of the studs a few inches longer to run up the side of the rafter, ending just short of its top, and then nail into them from the opposite side of the rafter....
As far as structural, wouldn't it be stronger with studs under (like he has it) rather along side and relying on the strength of a nail ?
Or with it being a gable end, the sheer strength is more important then the down word weight ?
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Old 10-25-2008, 05:22 PM   #4
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roof end wall question


Agreed, there should not be a top plate under the gable rafter or at the top of the gable studs. I'd suggest notching the studs outer face 1-1/2" to fit/recess the rafter. Face nailing would work ok as well because there's very little load on a gable wall (except under the ridge, which needs direct bearing).

The 15' rafter span is pretty much the maximum span for most species of #2 2x6. Hem-fir would be overspanned, doug fir and southern yellow pine barely make it at 16"oc. Might be worth installing a purlin on the rafters (not the gable).
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Old 10-25-2008, 05:38 PM   #5
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roof end wall question


I'm not positive that I understand your question. Obviously, a bunch of studs 16" OC underneath the rafter will tremendously strengthen it as far as any downward load is concerned, but since none of the other rafters are supported that way, what's the point?

If you're talking about the gable wall's resistance to "blowout", or falling over sideways, technically that top plate design would be stronger. But it's way overkill for a wall of this sort.

Here's a house we enlarged a tad last year. The gables were done using the method I described.
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Old 10-25-2008, 05:54 PM   #6
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I'd suggest notching the studs outer face 1-1/2" to fit/recess the rafter.
I wouldn't. The studs go on the outside of the rafter, with the roof sheathing extending out another foot or so. The very edge of the roof sheathing gets a rakeboard underneath it, giving you an overhang to match the lower eaves. But I suppose that's a matter of taste and local building practices.
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Old 10-25-2008, 08:41 PM   #7
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I'm not positive that I understand your question.
Your reply answered my question, thanks.

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Here's a house we enlarged a tad last year. The gables were done using the method I described.
As for the "look-outs" in your picture, are they there and just not visible in the pic or are you adding them later ? If your adding them later, why ?
Im asking the questions because im looking for as much info as i can on roofs, ill be doing a roof in two weeks (it will be truss) with a friend, but would like to know why other people frame the way they do. Ive seen some houses being re-worked and they just nail the look-outs ot the side and ive seen others where they notch and lay them in.
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Old 10-25-2008, 08:56 PM   #8
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roof end wall question




here is my new drawing, Tinstaafland thekctermite i put in both your comments here, like taking out the top plate and thickening the rafters, there wasnt any mention of the bottom plate of the gable wall so i assumed it was needed, and i drew notches for the rafters, would this work? is there more that i should do to make this up to code?

how would i go about doing the lookouts?
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Old 10-25-2008, 09:03 PM   #9
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Ive seen some houses being re-worked and they just nail the look-outs ot the side and ive seen others where they notch and lay them in.
If it's a large overhang, you'd want to notch them in for better support. In this case the overhang wasn't that much, so we just put them in as blocking. The rakeboard's ends were attached to the ridge beam and the fascia at the bottom.

Yes, they're in the pic but not visible.
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Old 10-25-2008, 09:09 PM   #10
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is there more that i should do to make this up to code?
That looks fine for code, unless you have a local variation we'd have no way of knowing about. Sorry, I missed the bottom plate detail. That's unnecessary too. Just toenail your studs to the top plate of the wall below.
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Old 10-25-2008, 09:24 PM   #11
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roof end wall question


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That looks fine for code, unless you have a local variation we'd have no way of knowing about. Sorry, I missed the bottom plate detail. That's unnecessary too. Just toenail your studs to the top plate of the wall below.
thank you both, all the information i got here will help with the house i want to build, and with the building for the medical practice my mother may set up in a few years (she is going to be studying to complete her nursing education, she is an rn now and is going for her masters to be a nurse practitioner)
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Old 10-26-2008, 01:43 AM   #12
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roof end wall question


i came up with another question, the lookouts i want to put in this house are 20 inches wide, what would be a good way to do that? would i need to alter my drawings or is there a way to do that without alterations?
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Old 10-26-2008, 08:23 AM   #13
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roof end wall question


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Originally Posted by Tinstaafl View Post
I'm not positive that I understand your question. Obviously, a bunch of studs 16" OC underneath the rafter will tremendously strengthen it as far as any downward load is concerned, but since none of the other rafters are supported that way, what's the point?

If you're talking about the gable wall's resistance to "blowout", or falling over sideways, technically that top plate design would be stronger. But it's way overkill for a wall of this sort.

Here's a house we enlarged a tad last year. The gables were done using the method I described.
how is the gable wall secured to the roof framing? what i see is a end rafter faced nailed to the gable stud. when you run your sheathing I don't see how this all ties together? where if you ran the studs under the rafter cut or notched you will be able to secure the sheathing to the studs and the end rafter to tie it all together. BOB
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Old 10-26-2008, 10:37 AM   #14
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roof end wall question


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the lookouts i want to put in this house are 20 inches wide, what would be a good way to do that?
Notch them into the tops of the rafters.
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Old 10-26-2008, 10:44 AM   #15
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where if you ran the studs under the rafter cut or notched you will be able to secure the sheathing to the studs and the end rafter to tie it all together. BOB
You can certainly do it that way if you want, and the sheathing would indeed add a bit more holding power. But it's just not necessary. If the house encounters any forces that are going to rip that wall loose done my way, you won't be living in it anyway.

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