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Old 01-16-2010, 09:04 AM   #31
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Rim Joist Insulation


Got an estimate this morning for 3-4 in foam sprayed along the rim joist and the cavities for 975.00. Good price? what questions should i be asking

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Old 01-16-2010, 09:09 AM   #32
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How many board-feet does that mean? or did they give you that figure. A board-foot is 12"x12"x1" thick and usually costs around $2/bdft.

Otherwise, ask open-cell or closed cell?

But it's probably based on half-a-day or so, two men+truck.
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Old 01-16-2010, 11:07 AM   #33
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you will want to ask that they are using closed-cell. Also what prep is any will be required by you.
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Old 01-16-2010, 05:29 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by ja191992stg View Post
Got an estimate this morning for 3-4 in foam sprayed along the rim joist and the cavities for 975.00. Good price? what questions should i be asking
About 4 times what I would want to spent on such a small area. Then again I dont live in NY . Ask yourself how long will it take to lose $1000 worth of energy through that one area of your home? LONG TIME even with todays energy prices. I would do something simple and cheaper till you can afford to get the whole house insulated at one time. You will get a better deal that way.
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Old 01-17-2010, 11:22 AM   #35
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Rim Joist Insulation


Look at 'foaming' it another way: if your overhang is about 2' deep, and you have a dozen bays of about a foot high, you're looking at about 45 cubic feet of foam to fill it.

That's the equivalent of 600 board feet, or a DIY spray-foam kit costing about $600 from Home Depot...two-pound density i.e. "closed cell" is what you want actually, as already pointed out.
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Old 01-17-2010, 03:21 PM   #36
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No No, this price of 975.00 is for the whole basement. The basement is pretty long, here is a pic
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Old 01-17-2010, 03:24 PM   #37
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Plus the wood on the far wall pictured is a storage closet, another 6 feet behind that. The stoage closets on the right are half of the width of the basement. The est was for the whole basement with 3-4 inch of foam, now how is that price?
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Old 01-17-2010, 03:36 PM   #38
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cheap... makes you think if you will get what you need and have it done correctly.
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Old 01-19-2010, 02:18 PM   #39
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If you mean the overhang of the house past the basement all the way down then thats better but still kinda high. If you mean spaying the entire underside of the house floor (very good idea) then I would pay that and im cheap. But like Bob said study up and make sure your getting what you pay for and not only that, get what you need. When spay foam is done it has to be done complete. If you leave Any cracks or openings unsealed, moisture will get in and not back out.
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Old 01-24-2010, 02:50 PM   #40
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Got another est. They were cheaper, 900.00. No iam not doing the underside of the floor. I am just doing all the joist in the basement. I was told by both companies doing the underside of the floor is a bad idea. I forgot why but they would not do that.
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Old 01-24-2010, 07:09 PM   #41
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The joist in the basement IS the underside of the floor I thought. Or is it not a full basement house? Its not common down here in the south to insulate floors (some do) in a non basement crawl but is it not up there?
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Old 01-24-2010, 10:55 PM   #42
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I am just doing the rim joist and the cavity between the joist. Not the whole underside of the floor. That would be a lot of money
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Old 01-25-2010, 08:17 AM   #43
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it will be worth it. 30% is returned as a tax credit during 2009 or 2010 up to $1500
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Old 02-08-2010, 03:44 PM   #44
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Correct on the spray foam: two part, closed cell. More durable than fiberglass and it insulates at a higher R-value per inch.
Provides: 1. Air sealing 2. Insulation 3. Vapor and moisture barrier.
It's a slam dunk.
Fiberglass in the rim joists is the older, more traditional way.
Kraft paper is useless, it becomes old and cracks, does not seal at the joints. 6mil poly, caulk or foam and *unfaced* fiberglass is only the second choice.
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Old 02-08-2010, 03:53 PM   #45
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Insulating the floor in a crawlspace area is not recommended, especially if there is ductwork, and double especially if ductwork is not insulated.
If it is a crawlspace:
1. lay down 6 mil poly (Visqueen/plastic sheeting) over the soil, overlap any joints, caulk joints if possible.
2. Have the rim joists(box sills etc) and the crawlspace walls insulated with 1.5" of 2 part closed cell foam, and have them overlap the 6 mil poly.
3. Ensure that all vents are blocked and sealed and foamed over.
4. insulate any access door with minimum 2" blue styro (Polystyrene type III) board

This way you have a conditioned crawlspace, it now takes care of insulating your floor and ducts.
Creates a pressurized area, which will decrease leakage in ductwork and increase flow to the registers
It will also reduce moisture in the crawl from walls and from soil
It will also reduce radon infiltration from the soil (2nd leading cause of lung cancer in the US)

Ask for more info at the DOE or WAPTAC.ORG (government assistance for low income families to weatherize homes)
Jordan

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