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INFALLIBLE1 03-15-2011 12:02 AM

Ridge beam support column
 
My apologies for my last thread was not well explained. I have included a few pictures in this one.

I am in process of designing my blueprints. and this is my hangup.

I have a 5.5"x16"x30' ridge beam that needs supported at each end plan to do so with 4 2x6's bolted or nailed together that run all the way to my 1st story floor. (i am doing a pier and beam foundation) have no concrete to go down to so that leaves me the 1st story floor (2x12's on 16" centers)

Distance from 1st story sill plate to top plate is 8.5'
Distance from 2nd story sill plate to top plate is 4'
distance from 3nd story top plate to bottom of beam is 8' 10"

All wall construction is 2x6 on 16" centers rafters are 2x8's floor joist on 1st story are 2x12x20's on 16" centers (supported in middle of span) 2nd story floor joist are 2x12x20's 12" on center.

Overall shot: Double stud on right side was there to fill the gap between the stud and the column (didnt want a 1.5" gap) and i did the same thing on the left side just to be uniform and figured it helps support the column
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m...1/support1.jpg

Detail where it breaks through rim joist and 1st story top plate.
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m...1/support2.jpg
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m...1/support3.jpg

Column rest on first story sill plate.
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m...1/support4.jpg

This is my floor that rest on my pier and beam foundation (there will be a beam directly under the center line of the building (right under my column).

Should i stick with the double rim joist or add 2 more so i have a solid support path through the floor to the beam?
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m...1/support5.jpg
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m...1/support6.jpg

INFALLIBLE1 03-15-2011 05:39 PM

Engineer at BD said the column looked fine and plugged into a calculator and said im good to go. I asked if he wanted the beam to rest on the subfloor (19/32 ply) or on the sill plate of the end wall.

He told me my choice.

Im thinking the sill plate of the end wall would be better.

also said he didnt see the need for the extra two floor joist under the column. still thinking it would be a good idea?

WillK 03-15-2011 07:38 PM

Struucturally, sure it's stronger, but would also make it more difficult to run wiring or plumbing from below.

... Beyond that I'll say that I'll stick to the questions asked for now...

AndyGump 03-15-2011 11:43 PM

You are not into "Green" construction are you?

I am not either but in my opinion this is a bit over-engineered, not terrible but the two extra rim joists would just be too much.
Just install blocks in place of the R.J.s so that the column has full bearing.

In addition I would suggest doing a more conventional platform frame and nix the over tall post.

What is your location if you don't mind me asking?

Andy.

INFALLIBLE1 03-15-2011 11:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndyGump (Post 610341)
You are not into "Green" construction are you?

I am not either but in my opinion this is a bit over-engineered, not terrible but the two extra rim joists would just be too much.
Just install blocks in place of the R.J.s so that the column has full bearing.

In addition I would suggest doing a more conventional platform frame and nix the over tall post.

What is your location if you don't mind me asking?

Andy.

Location is central FL. google search returned nothing for platform frame.

Green framing in the sense that i wont ever have to build it again :thumbup:
I do plan to salvage alot of lumber from two homes that are set to be demo'd down the street.

And hope to salvage the heart pine floor from a old warehouse downtown i could do the whole house and probably have enough left to give away.

So technically the only green thing i have going for me. Is being off grid,spray foam insulation, garden and my meat rabbits.

AndyGump 03-16-2011 12:07 AM

Uummm...meat rabbits, hossenfeffer is on the menu boys!


http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...1094300AAAenYh


Andy.

INFALLIBLE1 03-16-2011 12:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndyGump (Post 610352)
Uummm...meat rabbits, hossenfeffer is on the menu boys!


http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...1094300AAAenYh


Andy.

never made it sounds good :) usually fry or grill on cedar plank.

AndyGump 03-16-2011 12:17 AM

BTW, what kind of calculation would the engineer at the BD need to do on a column?

For Florida, I think all that you are doing is under the heading of "conventional light frame construction" therefore you are able to design it yourself no worries as long as you don't deviate form code (IRC probably). I think the tall column deviates from code by bisecting the platforms of the gable sides.

Andy.

INFALLIBLE1 03-16-2011 12:52 AM

Since the beam is a engineered glulam i have to have to have a engineer stamp of approval for the support system

WillK 03-16-2011 08:33 AM

Okay, questions that are nagging me are questions that are obviously a result of this design being a work in progress... Questions like: where are the doors and windows, where's the stairway, is the stairwell properly reinforced, is this going to be an open floor plan, is the second story going to have that cathedral ceiling?

So this is a post and beam foundation, shouldn't this beam simply bear on one of the beams that presumably there will be one right at the center under the post supporting the ridge beam?

Willie T 03-16-2011 09:30 AM

1 Attachment(s)
The biggest question that comes to my mind is why you did not rest the rafters on top of the beam? That's kind of the whole point of using a ridge beam instead of just a ridge board... which is about all your beam now becomes.

No big deal, just curious. I guess it'll work just fine like you have it, but it seems like a whole lot of extra work and expense with all the hangers now necessary.

INFALLIBLE1 03-16-2011 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WillK (Post 610475)
Okay, questions that are nagging me are questions that are obviously a result of this design being a work in progress... Questions like: where are the doors and windows, where's the stairway, is the stairwell properly reinforced, is this going to be an open floor plan, is the second story going to have that cathedral ceiling?

So this is a post and beam foundation, shouldn't this beam simply bear on one of the beams that presumably there will be one right at the center under the post supporting the ridge beam?

1. doors and windows are not in place.
2. Stairway is 60" spiral in the back right corner of the building.
3. Open floor plan on second floor with cathedral ceiling, first floor will be divided with two 10x12 rooms,bathroom,utility/electric room.
4. are you saying cut through the rim joist of the 1st story just like i did the second?

INFALLIBLE1 03-16-2011 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Willie T (Post 610514)
The biggest question that comes to my mind is why you did not rest the rafters on top of the beam? That's kind of the whole point of using a ridge beam instead of just a ridge board... which is about all your beam now becomes.

No big deal, just curious. I guess it'll work just fine like you have it, but it seems like a whole lot of extra work and expense with all the hangers now necessary.

Am trying to keep a minimum about of beam sticking through the cathedral ceiling not to mention i salvage alot of hangers from a project where they were not used.

WillK 03-16-2011 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by INFALLIBLE1 (Post 610611)
1. doors and windows are not in place.

While doors and windows will be straightforward for the first floor, aside from the fact that you necessarily can't put one that goes across the center of the gable end walls, the second story is something you might want to think about... If you're talking about a 48" wall and that also means you have a 48" top plate for that wall going across the gable ends, then either that's going to be cut for windows or you're going to limit window options.

Quote:

2. Stairway is 60" spiral in the back right corner of the building.
First question on that is if it's too close in the corner to where the cathedral ceiling is coming down to a 48" wall, are you going to have adequate head room at the top of the stairs?

Second, is that going to be adequate for carrying furniture to the second floor?

Quote:

4. are you saying cut through the rim joist of the 1st story just like i did the second?
I was thinking notch the post for the rim joist. That's just my instinct, I think I'd wait for a more qualified to opinion to say which way is better. If it's notched, I know that notches are happier with holes drilled at the corners to relieve the stress concentration of a sharp corner which can become a fracture initiating point.

INFALLIBLE1 03-16-2011 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WillK (Post 610623)
While doors and windows will be straightforward for the first floor, aside from the fact that you necessarily can't put one that goes across the center of the gable end walls, the second story is something you might want to think about... If you're talking about a 48" wall and that also means you have a 48" top plate for that wall going across the gable ends, then either that's going to be cut for windows or you're going to limit window options.



First question on that is if it's too close in the corner to where the cathedral ceiling is coming down to a 48" wall, are you going to have adequate head room at the top of the stairs?

Second, is that going to be adequate for carrying furniture to the second floor?



I was thinking notch the post for the rim joist. That's just my instinct, I think I'd wait for a more qualified to opinion to say which way is better. If it's notched, I know that notches are happier with holes drilled at the corners to relieve the stress concentration of a sharp corner which can become a fracture initiating point.


1. Windows will sit on the top plate an are rather large 80x80 triangle windows that will be on either side of the column
2. have 80"+ of head room from every tread to ceiling
3. if furniture cant be brought up through the stairwell railing can be unbolted and treads rotated out of the way and lifted to the second story. (with treads rotated out of the way it leaves me a 5.5 foot x 2.5 foot access) if i need larger center support can be unbolted and moved to one side giving 5.5' x 5'.

I will have to consider the notch will discuss with the BD


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