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-   -   Resurfacing Concrete interior wall (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/resurfacing-concrete-interior-wall-99714/)

daltinator 03-27-2011 04:34 AM

Resurfacing Concrete interior wall
 
Hi! I bought a 1920 house. The interior walls of the basement had tar about 4 feet up the interior of the basement. I wanted to remove the tar because I didn't trust what was behind it. I wanted to repair the wall fully before finishing the basement. So I got out the rotary hammer and started chipping away. I ended up taking off about 1/16 to 1/8 of concrete to fully remove all the tar.I didn't want to use chemicals strippers. They never do what they promise. Had to sharpen many bits. All together I found about 8 big holes and a huge trail across the foundation that was there from whoever not vibrating the concrete together when they stopped pouring and began pouring again. My question is, what is the best way to apply a new coat to the concrete wall. Doesn't have to look pretty. The surface is very rough and I am going to pressure wash it tomorrow. I seen the quickwall from quickrete. That sounds pretty good. I just want something long lasting. I don't need anything to waterproof or damp proof. I am working on the exterior once the weather clears. And my last question is how to repair those huge holes? They are 2 to 3 inches deep and some 5 inches long. I was thinking hydraulic cement or just portland but I dont know how to hold the concrete on a wall as it drys. I am usually very good at coming up with good ideas but couldn't think of a contraption to brace the hole so it can dry without drooping out. I got a couple but I know someone has a simpler solution. Any suggestion greatly appreciated. Thanks

Gary in WA 03-27-2011 09:30 PM

Welcome to the forum!

The tar or other waterproofing belongs on the outside only. I would follow B.S.C. lead in insulating basements with foam board, letting the concrete below grade dry to the inside; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...ent-insulation

http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...gs?full_view=1

Tape some 1/4" plywood or tin against the hole leaving enough room to add the concrete mixed already (high-early) quick set. Then remove form, add more concrete while setting up for a good bond, to top off and float flush. Add a bonding agent painted on if worried about full contact, before the pour/push. Mix it relatively dry to stay but wet enough to compact.

Gary

daltinator 03-28-2011 02:46 AM

Thanks
 
Thanks for the website Gary. Always love informative websites. I seen a video from this old house website that showed you how to insulate the basement but he definitely doesn't go into detail about insulating by the rim joist. My Basements going to be dry as a bone. I got to say though, the rigid foam is pretty expensive. I am Remodeling a duplex(my first remodel) and that is another expense I didn't see coming. Thanks again for help.

stadry 03-28-2011 05:33 AM

there are polymer-modified repair mortars formulated for vertical & overhead work,,, they are also structural ( restorative strength ),,, final appearance will depend on the skill of the mason,,, do NOT expect to find anything close in any apron/vest store but look in a pro const supply house,,, proper prep is an ABSOLUTE !

daltinator 05-24-2011 06:04 PM

went with the quickwall from quikcrete. Its got fiberglass in it so the wall is one unit. Got about half done now. Really liking the results. The finish looks like sh!t, but I am not a mason. It will be covered up with foam anyway. Just trying to put as much pressure on the mixture when spreading as possible. The mixture that the manufacturer(buttery-plastic) wants is very hard to get every time. You can tell you get it right because it is almost like glue. Sometimes it is mixed with the same technique and you dont get a glue like substance. You get more of a mortar mixture. Either way, the mixture comes out, it seems to hold up well on the wall.:thumbsup:


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