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-   -   Resilient Channels and finishing drywall (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/resilient-channels-finishing-drywall-8984/)

Pat the Dad 06-06-2007 12:12 PM

Resilient Channels and finishing drywall
 
Hello all,
I'm finishing half my basement after being inspired by KUI****G whom I know a lot of you are familiar with and provided such excellent advice to.
Most of the prep work is done and has gone well (except it has taken A LOT longer than I expected - but I never set an end date so that's ok).
I'm using resilient channels (RC) and Roxul in the walls and ceilings to hopefully help with the soundproofing and I'm pretty well ready to start throwing up the the drywall.
I know the challenges around attaching to resilient channels but in the spirit of positive thinking I have convinced myself that with the appropriate prep and care all will be attached correctly.

What I'm really looking for is anyone with experience in finishing baseboards, etc once you've done all the traditional taping, etc of the drywall. If you've used the RC's you know that you are supposed to leave at least 1/4 inch gaps at the sides and top of the drywall (you can't have the drywall butted together or it defeats the purpose of the soundproofing).
Further, these gaps are supposed to be filled with some sort of acoustic sealant (or an equivalent mastik that will always stay flexible) but I can't believe you are expected to just leave it like that, especially the baseboard portion.
But I know funadamentally that in this application you don't want anything BUT the attachment of the RC's to make screw contact with any stud / header / footer.

OK, I admit it - I'm rambling.........so, two questions:

Anybody out there have this type of RC experience and suggestions for giving it a more finished look???

And, the current acoustic sealant I'm using is black and can be a real pain if you accidentally touch it during application (it's a real bugger to get off). Do you have experience with any other caulking type stuff that does/will have the same properties of the acoustic ie. remains flexible, stays in place, etc, BUT is also paintable (if quarter round or something similar turns out not to be a finishing option)

I'll try to be shorter in the future!

Pat

KUIPORNG 06-06-2007 02:36 PM

Sound proof basement walls.... is this an overkill?

I have my dryer/washer running in the renovated basement bathroom... when the bath door shut and the basement door shut... on first floor can't tell whether the wash machine and dryer is running... I used to pick on my daughter not doing laundry by using these sounds when the machine is on the first floor... I can no longer do that... has to run downstair to check....

this sound proofing stuff seems so high tech looks like for the US Pentagon ...anyway... may be you have your secret reason....

Pat the Dad 06-06-2007 02:43 PM

Good to hear from you Kui****g........loved your site........I'm doing it because of two teenagers (one that plays electric guitar and loves "metal") and all their friends that make our house home base......which is fine because if the kids are at our place then they're not getting into trouble.......it's really not much more difficult than a regular reno - it just has a couple of oddities in the finishing.......

AtlanticWBConst. 06-06-2007 06:05 PM

Does this page help you at all with your situation?

http://www.soundproofing.org/infopages/channel.htm

Pat the Dad 06-08-2007 09:26 AM

Thanks for the response.......I actually have this site and many others but they all deal with getting to the point where you have the drywall up and taped and mud applied........I'm not quite there yet, but I was looking past that to see how to finish off with baseboard and other trim......I'm thinking for the baseboards I could get away with constuciton adhesive (no nails) but I can find nothing on the web that deals with the finishing.......
Any suggestions for the mastik???

KUIPORNG 06-08-2007 09:32 AM

use paintable caulking will work very well... to attach the baseboard to the drywall before it was dry, just nail the baseboard onto the drywall where there is no support at the back of the drywall... this force is enough to hold the baseboard inplace and once the caulking dried, the nail is no use but can be kept there. you could also use no nail for shorter length baseboard and caulking only ....

I did that and work very well, but in your case, as for sound proofing, you need to do the reverse of stud finding, instead "no-stud" finding when do the nailing....

I learnt this tip from send_it_all.... well, this is the last time I mentioned him/her as I believe I gave him/her enough credit...


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