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-   -   Request to the fireblock gurus (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/request-fireblock-gurus-99773/)

HHomeowner 03-27-2011 09:24 AM

Request to the fireblock gurus
 
1 Attachment(s)
I hate to piggy-back, but this seemed the most appropriate thread to ask this question. I have failed B-inspection due to what is an interior mechanical closet. All S/R for furnace and tankless water heater as well as misc pex, electrical, are located in this interior closet w/ one wall on the exterior side of the house. I failed for firestop. Is there a way to block the joist openings where multiple services are already running? Attached picture is a good sample of the situation.
Thanks
Harriett

jcrack_corn 03-27-2011 08:42 PM

check your local codes (call the inspector) but you should be able to use spray foam (fireblock) or 3m fireblock caulk around every penetration....ask the inspector if that will suffice....

leungw 03-28-2011 08:08 AM

Some would also consider tightly packed fiberglass or rockwool as acceptable. You would have to check with your inspector.

HHomeowner 03-30-2011 06:44 AM

Request to the fireblock gurus
 
Thank you for the advice.

Calling a 3rd party inspector, as the city inspector's comment was 'I'm not here to tell you how to fix it...'

Will send pictures of the final resolution.
Thanks again,
HHomeowner

jcrack_corn 03-30-2011 03:24 PM

what a ****. you SHOULD have replied with "actually you ARE here to tell me EXACTLY that, and I pay your salary through taxes, please let me speak to your supervisor/the head inspector."

sonova*****.

(note, i of course dont expect him to tell you to "do xyz" but it IS the inspectors job to tell you what materials are approved for fire-blocking in your area).

public servants, what a joke.

Quote:

Originally Posted by HHomeowner (Post 619824)
Thank you for the advice.

Calling a 3rd party inspector, as the city inspector's comment was 'I'm not here to tell you how to fix it...'

Will send pictures of the final resolution.
Thanks again,
HHomeowner


HHomeowner 03-30-2011 04:47 PM

Request to the fireblock gurus
 
I agree and I appreciate your support, but this was a guy who was measuring windows for egress and asking for vendor docs to prove that some windows were tempered (post close-in approval!). I was going to fail for something.

Kicker - just returned from the permit office and based on dwgs and pictures, both mechanical and fire reps told me there is no requirement for firestop!

Will post outcome from 3rd party. But I agree that the spaces b/t joists should be closed.

Thanks again,
HHomeowner

loneframer 03-30-2011 04:57 PM

Good thing you didn't have open web floor trusses.:eek:

In my 30 years of building, penetrations from floor to floor, or to inaccessible areas have to be fire-stopped.

Generally Fire rated foam is adequate, but in some cases, I've been asked (By the inspector:whistling2:), to use high temp silicone caulk.

That, in conjunction with "rotten cotton", or rock wool insulation has always been acceptable here.

loneframer 03-30-2011 05:09 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by HHomeowner (Post 620206)
I agree and I appreciate your support, but this was a guy who was measuring windows for egress and asking for vendor docs to prove that some windows were tempered (post close-in approval!). I was going to fail for something.

IME, all tempered glass must be marked as such on the pane of glass, period. End of discussion.

When I built my own home, I used laminated safety glass in my stair and balcony railings. I even got a letter from the installer that it was in fact LSG.

:no:No go. It had to be acid etched into each pane of glass. That was after the inspector had to refer to the books to see if LSG was acceptable in that application.

The fact is, LSG has the basic properties of windshield glass. The pane will break, but the panes are permanently bonded to an inner film, keeping the glass shards confined and leaving an additional layer of security by not having an open hole in the assembly.


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