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Old 01-28-2008, 10:01 AM   #16
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Replacing T-111 with Hardiplank


OK, thanks RJ. I will inquire about the permit. I am not overly concerned with moisture, but the humidity is usually high here. The sheathing will not be in contact with the ground as I have dug a shallow trench around the perimeter of the house and there is no water spray from sprinklers, etc.
I definitely will use the Tyvek, (Lowes has their own brand, which is probably the same-free advertising for them during home construction), and whatever sheathing is available from the big orange or big blue box. I will nail the hardiplank on with 2 3/8" galvanized pneumatic nails.
Atlantic WB also sent me a link for the Bear Clips which seem to be a great aid to installation.
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Old 01-28-2008, 11:03 AM   #17
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Replacing T-111 with Hardiplank


Only note here is that you really cannot install your insulation from the outside. The kraft paper face has flanges that have to be stapled from the inside!. Proper way is to strip the exterior and finish that, then strip interior, do any changes to the electrical, inspect any plumbing, then insulate, re-rock etc
IMHO SHEATHING IS A MUST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! OSB or ply
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Old 01-28-2008, 01:03 PM   #18
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Replacing T-111 with Hardiplank


D****. This is turning into a major project when all I wanted to do was reside the house and get rid of that T-111 crap! Is there anyway that I can I can add F/G insulation from the outside leaving the foil backed foam in place. Couldn't I use small diameter rods to hold the F/G? To remove all of the wallboard in the house is not only an extensive remodeling but beyond the scope of my finances. I know that it is only my problem, but I am retired from nursing and the ministry and live on a limited budget.
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Old 01-28-2008, 01:07 PM   #19
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Replacing T-111 with Hardiplank


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Originally Posted by skymaster View Post
Only note here is that you really cannot install your insulation from the outside. The kraft paper face has flanges that have to be stapled from the inside!. Proper way is to strip the exterior and finish that, then strip interior, do any changes to the electrical, inspect any plumbing, then insulate, re-rock etc
IMHO SHEATHING IS A MUST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! OSB or ply
I am going to replace the T-111 with sheathing, Tyvek, than Hardiplank.
I will just leave the foam/foil insulation if I have to. My plumbing is all under the slab and have no problems with electric. The house is only 25 years old. If it works don't fix it.
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Old 01-28-2008, 02:39 PM   #20
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Replacing T-111 with Hardiplank


I would suggest using loose fill fiberglass or cellulose insulation. It requires the placement of two 1-1/2" holes in each cavity at 4' and 7' on your 8 foot wall. The insulation is then blown in from the bottom up.

Then all you have to do is fill the holes. (different thread)
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Old 01-28-2008, 03:11 PM   #21
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Replacing T-111 with Hardiplank


I can understand why you want to not see T111, but can't you just cover it up with Hardiplanks? Did I miss that something is rotten in there that you need to get rid of?

BTW,,, we are installing Hardiplanks and scoring them on both sides with a utility knife works great (about 6 passes on each side)... no dust to speak of. We love it.
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Old 01-28-2008, 05:32 PM   #22
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Replacing T-111 with Hardiplank


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Originally Posted by leezarrd View Post
I can understand why you want to not see T111, but can't you just cover it up with Hardiplanks? Did I miss that something is rotten in there that you need to get rid of?

BTW,,, we are installing Hardiplanks and scoring them on both sides with a utility knife works great (about 6 passes on each side)... no dust to speak of. We love it.
Well..., I guess I could leave it on, but all the pros are telling me to remove it. By removing it I can see what, if any damage might have occurred from termites. Scoring and snapping does work well with a lot less dust, it just takes more time.
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Old 01-29-2008, 07:50 AM   #23
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Replacing T-111 with Hardiplank


re: Cutting the Hardiplank. I saw on a home improvement show about a Guilotine decive to cut the planks, No dust and leaves a slightly rough edge that gives an expansion gap between planks that you caulk. Might check a rental house.
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Old 02-18-2008, 09:07 AM   #24
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Replacing T-111 with Hardiplank


I am still wrestling with this project while I am waiting for the weather to improve. Why couldn't I leave the T-111 on except for removing the lower portion that has deteriorated due to moisture, replace that removed section with sheathing, then Tyvek, then the hardiboard? Wouldn't the T-111 act as sheathing if were all intact and in good condition? Thanks,
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