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Old 01-24-2008, 01:21 PM   #1
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Replacing T-111 with Hardiplank


Hello, I want to remove the T-111 that is on our brick and frame house. It is basically stick built with the front brick facade. There is 1/2 inch foil covered,(one side only), foam insulation on the outer surface of the studs. Would it be better to remove that foam insulation, replacing it with Unbacked fiberglass, cover that with Tyvek and/or vapor barrier and then install the Hardiplank? Here in north east Florida we have generally mild winters and horribly hot and humid spring & summer. The summers last about 6 months and the winters about 3-4 with occasional dips to 30 degrees. Thanks forany advice.
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Old 01-24-2008, 05:47 PM   #2
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Replacing T-111 with Hardiplank


Personal opinion, I think the you should yank the foam barrier. It WILL disintegrate over time.

Don't overstuff the cavities with insulation. I would imagine that you are on 2x4 studs 16" OC. Probably R-13 will work. Anything more will defeat the purpose of the insulation by compressing the air space.

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Old 01-24-2008, 07:35 PM   #3
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Replacing T-111 with Hardiplank


Thanks Randell. I want to tear it all out and start fresh as this house was probably built on spec and as cheaply as possible from what I have seen doing repairs and renovations on the inside.
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Old 01-24-2008, 11:29 PM   #4
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Replacing T-111 with Hardiplank


You're gonna love the Hardiplank! I've used it on some guest cottages and on the underpinning for my house. It's near perfect!
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Old 01-25-2008, 08:35 AM   #5
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Replacing T-111 with Hardiplank


Yes, I think that it is a great product. I installed it on a friends home that was a 150 year old heart pine Florida cracker house. Although we screwed his on, I will probably use a pneumatic nailer to do mine. The nails will be a lot faster. The big question I have is how to handle the vapor barrier thing. Do I use a backed fiberglass insulation or use unbacked and staple on plastic sheet? And, in north Florida where the winters can cold for short periods, but the summers long, hot and humid, should I put the plastic vapor barrier on the inside or the outside of the insulation?
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Old 01-25-2008, 10:25 AM   #6
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Replacing T-111 with Hardiplank


If you are removing the interior wall board, then yes use backed insulation with the PAPER vapor barrier. Then, apply the Tyvek to the exterior under the hardiplank. Don't use plastic under any circumstances. You want your house to breathe.
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Old 01-25-2008, 03:36 PM   #7
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Replacing T-111 with Hardiplank


Thanks again Randell. I wasn't going to replace the sheetrock/wallboard, but once I remove the T-111 and the old foam insulation I can install the paper backed F/G insulation from the outside before installing the Hardiplank.
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Old 01-25-2008, 04:12 PM   #8
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Replacing T-111 with Hardiplank


It seems to me you all are missing something. The T 111 is acting as both the sheathing and the finish siding. I thing after you install the new insulation and vapor barrier, you should install new 1/2 inch plywood or OSB to act as sheathing before installing the Hardiboard, This may be required by your building code (you were going to pull a permit?). The sheathing adds structural integrity and ties the wall down to the sills.
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Old 01-25-2008, 05:46 PM   #9
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DOH! You're absolutely right. I was only thinking about the insulation and not the structural aspect of his project.
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Old 01-25-2008, 06:50 PM   #10
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Replacing T-111 with Hardiplank


Whoops! I wasn't planning to use a plywood sheathing as I thought the Hardiplank was strong enough. I wanted to get away from the plywood due to the termite/moisture/damp rot problem as much as possible. Also, to repair or renovate ones' own home, I didn't think a permit was required. I thought that one was needed only on new construction.
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Old 01-25-2008, 07:21 PM   #11
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Replacing T-111 with Hardiplank


If you keep the sheathing from coming in contact with the ground, and use a good house wrap (TYVEK) then you won't have the problems you mentioned.
This is how most houses are built now days.

You would use house sheathing and not plywood.
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Old 01-25-2008, 10:23 PM   #12
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Got it! Thanks.
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Old 01-26-2008, 09:32 AM   #13
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Replacing T-111 with Hardiplank


In case you haven't come across it yet, I'm inserting the instructions for Hardie Plank siding from the manufacturer. We prefer to use Stainless Steel ring shank nails to minumize nail bleeding.
Also consider pre-painted siding, color-matched caulking, the color repair kit, cement board blades(dust reducer), Bear Clips (ease of installation and ventilation).

Hardie Plank Installation Instructions:
http://www.jameshardie.com/pdf/insta...lank_south.pdf

Bear Clips: http://www.bearclip.com/
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Old 01-26-2008, 10:19 AM   #14
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Replacing T-111 with Hardiplank


Thanks for those links Atlantic. I had only the instructions that came with the product, but the PDF is much better. It advises you of all of the proper aspects of installation. I like the Bear clips, but when I did my friends house I made a jig with a rabbet cut into it to get the right overlap. The Bear Clips, though look like they will make it much easier, especially since I will have little or no help this time. I think in the long run they will be worth the price.
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Old 01-28-2008, 07:48 AM   #15
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Replacing T-111 with Hardiplank


Most communtities require permits for new siding. Even if not required the Hardiboard is not sheathing and does not supply structural integrity. If you are worried about moisture ,definatly use a house wrap and consider pressure treated plywood for sheathing(exp[ensive).

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