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BIOA 01-24-2008 12:21 PM

Replacing T-111 with Hardiplank
Hello, I want to remove the T-111 that is on our brick and frame house. It is basically stick built with the front brick facade. There is 1/2 inch foil covered,(one side only), foam insulation on the outer surface of the studs. Would it be better to remove that foam insulation, replacing it with Unbacked fiberglass, cover that with Tyvek and/or vapor barrier and then install the Hardiplank? Here in north east Florida we have generally mild winters and horribly hot and humid spring & summer. The summers last about 6 months and the winters about 3-4 with occasional dips to 30 degrees. Thanks forany advice.

Randell Tarin 01-24-2008 04:47 PM

Personal opinion, I think the you should yank the foam barrier. It WILL disintegrate over time.

Don't overstuff the cavities with insulation. I would imagine that you are on 2x4 studs 16" OC. Probably R-13 will work. Anything more will defeat the purpose of the insulation by compressing the air space.

BIOA 01-24-2008 06:35 PM

Replacing T-111with Hardiplank
Thanks Randell. I want to tear it all out and start fresh as this house was probably built on spec and as cheaply as possible from what I have seen doing repairs and renovations on the inside.

Randell Tarin 01-24-2008 10:29 PM

You're gonna love the Hardiplank! I've used it on some guest cottages and on the underpinning for my house. It's near perfect!

BIOA 01-25-2008 07:35 AM

Replacing T-111 with Hardiplank
Yes, I think that it is a great product. I installed it on a friends home that was a 150 year old heart pine Florida cracker house. Although we screwed his on, I will probably use a pneumatic nailer to do mine. The nails will be a lot faster. The big question I have is how to handle the vapor barrier thing. Do I use a backed fiberglass insulation or use unbacked and staple on plastic sheet? And, in north Florida where the winters can cold for short periods, but the summers long, hot and humid, should I put the plastic vapor barrier on the inside or the outside of the insulation?

Randell Tarin 01-25-2008 09:25 AM

If you are removing the interior wall board, then yes use backed insulation with the PAPER vapor barrier. Then, apply the Tyvek to the exterior under the hardiplank. Don't use plastic under any circumstances. You want your house to breathe.

BIOA 01-25-2008 02:36 PM

Replacing T-111 with Hardiplank
Thanks again Randell. I wasn't going to replace the sheetrock/wallboard, but once I remove the T-111 and the old foam insulation I can install the paper backed F/G insulation from the outside before installing the Hardiplank.

rjniles 01-25-2008 03:12 PM

It seems to me you all are missing something. The T 111 is acting as both the sheathing and the finish siding. I thing after you install the new insulation and vapor barrier, you should install new 1/2 inch plywood or OSB to act as sheathing before installing the Hardiboard, This may be required by your building code (you were going to pull a permit?). The sheathing adds structural integrity and ties the wall down to the sills.

Randell Tarin 01-25-2008 04:46 PM

DOH! You're absolutely right. I was only thinking about the insulation and not the structural aspect of his project.

BIOA 01-25-2008 05:50 PM

Replacing T-111 with Hardiplank
Whoops! I wasn't planning to use a plywood sheathing as I thought the Hardiplank was strong enough. I wanted to get away from the plywood due to the termite/moisture/damp rot problem as much as possible. Also, to repair or renovate ones' own home, I didn't think a permit was required. I thought that one was needed only on new construction.

Randell Tarin 01-25-2008 06:21 PM

2 Attachment(s)
If you keep the sheathing from coming in contact with the ground, and use a good house wrap (TYVEK) then you won't have the problems you mentioned.
This is how most houses are built now days.

You would use house sheathing and not plywood.

BIOA 01-25-2008 09:23 PM

Got it! Thanks.

AtlanticWBConst. 01-26-2008 08:32 AM

In case you haven't come across it yet, I'm inserting the instructions for Hardie Plank siding from the manufacturer. We prefer to use Stainless Steel ring shank nails to minumize nail bleeding.
Also consider pre-painted siding, color-matched caulking, the color repair kit, cement board blades(dust reducer), Bear Clips (ease of installation and ventilation).

Hardie Plank Installation Instructions:

Bear Clips:

BIOA 01-26-2008 09:19 AM

Replacing T-111 with Hardiplank
Thanks for those links Atlantic. I had only the instructions that came with the product, but the PDF is much better. It advises you of all of the proper aspects of installation. I like the Bear clips, but when I did my friends house I made a jig with a rabbet cut into it to get the right overlap. The Bear Clips, though look like they will make it much easier, especially since I will have little or no help this time. I think in the long run they will be worth the price.

rjniles 01-28-2008 06:48 AM

Most communtities require permits for new siding. Even if not required the Hardiboard is not sheathing and does not supply structural integrity. If you are worried about moisture ,definatly use a house wrap and consider pressure treated plywood for sheathing(exp[ensive).

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