replacing rotted sill plate and rim joist behind a deck ledger board
I have a 36 foot by 12 foot deck attached to my house by a ledger board 2x8. The ledger is 36 feet long. When it was installed they did not install flashing and now the house rim joist and sill plate are rotting. They need replacing. Below is my tentative plan for replacement. I'm looking for comments and I have a few questions. I have access to the rim joist /floor joist area inside the house since it is in the basement.
I plan on replacing the rotted stuff in sections by supporting the deck joists and the house floor joists with floor jacks. Then after removing some decking and deck joist hangers I plan on trimming 1 1/2 inches off of the deck joists where they would attach to the ledger board so I can get the ledger board, rim joist and sill plate out. Then we can replace the sill plate and rim joist. After that I was planning on making up a ledger out of two 2x8 s. Assuming I can do what I have said so far I have a few questions
1) How many 1/2 inch lags do I need to bolt on the ledger? In addition, do the lags have to be lined up so they go through the rim joist and into the floor joists of the house or do they only have to go through the rim joist? Do I have to use the deck lok brackets?
2) I am going to use Grace deck protector for flashing. Is this good stuff?
3) So far I'm planning on using all stainless steel fasteners and hangers when I put things back together.
4) I'm planning on using all pressure treated lumber.
5) The current ledger is positioned such that the bottom 1 1/2 inch overlaps directly with the sill plate. When I reattach the new lumber can I lag bolt through the ledger/rimjoist into the sill plate or is this bad?
In same boat...
I am in the same boat, but had a 70 foot long deck that was put in with untreated lumber, also without flashing. This resulted in much of the sill plate and rim joist to be rotted. I decided, however, to remove the entire deck and do something else with the area.
What are the issues I need to consider when replacing the sill plate and the rim joist?
I also need to grade the soil away from the foundation, but do not have much height to work with, what is the best way to cover the rim joist, so that soil can be taken above the level of the concrete foundation (if possible)?
I was thinking that metal or plastic flashing would be best, sealing it to the concrete foundation with some sort of compound that would keep moisture and critters out. Then when I reside the section of the home, I could just take the siding down to close to the newly graded ground.
Does anyone see any issues with this? What problems would arise from this technique and are there better alternatives?
I fell sorry for both posters above. You are victims of going for the low price and/or misplaced trust.
pictures would help as would access to sill and rim info, for dealing with
each situation. dementions ( plase advise)
water can be a relentless force... it made the grand canyon.
FLASHING>>>COUNTER FLASHING think like a drop of water.. understand surface tension.. and wicking...
do you plan on DIY repairs?
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