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-   -   Replacing outbuilding walls (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/replacing-outbuilding-walls-121357/)

dreamlily27 10-26-2011 10:20 AM

Replacing outbuilding walls
 
Hi everyone. I need to replace the walls on my big shed (outbuilding) which is 36'x24' because the T-111 walls that are there now have started to rot from the bottom UP. This is as a result of water which will puddle around the bottom in heavy rains and take a few hours to drain, and the huge snowstorms we've had over the last few years.

We made doors for three entrances also, out of T-111 and added 2x4's in an X pattern for cosmetic purposes. The doors are in terrible shape. They have warped and also rotted at the bottom.

We built the shed from a KIT which called for T-111 as an option for the walls. We then painted the walls with 3 coats of a good exterior paint.

Considering the building was erected in 1992, I think we certainly got many good years out of the T-111 before it's reached this point so I'm not complaining.

My question is this. It's been suggested that we replace the rotted T-111 boards with Marine plywood.

What we have on there now is 5/8" thick, 8" blocked, 4x8 sheets. I've been looking online at some of the prices of the marine plywood and it looks like it would cost me about $44-$52 per sheet to get the size I need, but depending on the TYPE.

Can anybody tell me if this is a good idea? To replace my T-111 with marine plywood rather than new T-111? If so, what KIND should I get? It looks like there are several types like Fir, Oak, etc? And is this available at places like Home Depot or Lowes? Do you know what one 36' LONG side might cost to replace?

I had a contractor give me an estimate of $1000 to replace one side with T-111. The job would have included removing the trim from 2 windows and replacing the T-111 around them, making the new doors, and putting T-111 back on the remainder of that side. I thought $1000 sounded a little high.

I plan on doing this work myself. For a woman, I don't do too bad with a saw, a drill and a screwdriver so I'm willing to get my hands a little dirty and sore if I can save some much needed money.

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks!

Dreamlily27

Ron6519 10-26-2011 11:44 AM

Why not post some photos? You mention bottom rot, but what does that mean? Is it 6" or 12" or...?
If it isn't too much, just cut around the perimeter of the building a set height to remove all the rot.
Install some "Z" flashing under the T-111 siding and put a rot resistant material on the bottom. You can use the composite boards they have now.
The pooling of the water should be addressed as well. Water should not be sitting against any structure. It sounds like you need to find a way to keep the water flowing away from the building. Regrade or add drainage pipes along the perimeter.

dreamlily27 10-26-2011 11:59 AM

At the risk of sounding dumb (I'm not a carpenter but willing to learn anything).... Wouldn't I still need to remove each sheet even to cut off the rotted parts? To answer your first question: the rotted parts are at least, if not more than 12" high. The doors are pretty warped so they definitely would need to be replaced.

As far as grading the land to address the problem, I would agree except for two things: 1) I don't have standing water very frequently at all (keep in mind that this is an accumulation of water damage over a period of about 19 years), and 2) I'm a single woman on a fixed budget and the area that would have to be graded involves almost a half acre, which I don't have the money to pay anyone to do. I appreciate what you're saying but I'm thinking that it took 19 years for it to affect it this way so I don't really think it's a critical issue to regrade at this point. You are basing it on very minimal information from me so I can understand why you would suggest this however.

So back to my original question: should I use marine plywood?

But thank you so much for your input. It is certainly appreciated! :)

kwikfishron 10-26-2011 12:43 PM

I wouldn’t remove the T-111 on the outbuilding and do as Ron mentioned and just cut out the bottom. Either 12, 16 or 24” to get the most out of a sheet.

Marine plywood is not only expensive it’s ugly too but you could use it.

If you don’t want it to look like a patch job, once the rot is repaired you can always go over the top of the T-111 with a weather barrier and new siding if you want.

Post a picture if you can. http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/how-a...to-post-12559/

dreamlily27 10-26-2011 01:01 PM

There's no siding on this shed and I have no plans or money to add siding to it. I'm a little confused about why I'm being discouraged from replacing the T-111 sheets and encouraged to just cut off the rot. It still seems like I would have to take the whole sheet down and cut off the rotten parts right. Then I'd have to repaint the new piece to match the old piece. And what about the seam that is now left showing where it was added? The T-111 IS also the "siding" so to speak. It will not be covered in any way. What you see is what you see.

I will try to post a picture here later if I can but I'm not sure I would like what it would LOOK like with it being "patched" like that.

What am I missing here? And what about marine plywood is "ugly?" I'm not sure I know what it looks like. Can't it be painted?

Thanks again!

Just trying to learn,
Dreamlily27

kwikfishron 10-26-2011 03:09 PM

I understand the T-111 is the siding.

You do not have to remove it off the wall to cut it. You snap a caulk line the entire length of the wall at the height you want and cut that line with a circular saw then remove the rotted lower portion.

You then install Z flashing at that joint to protect the seam from the weather and replace the lower portion with new.

You want to save money, right??? If you do it that way and you only have to replace the bottom 12 around the building then out of one sheet of the replacement material you can repair 32lf of siding. Instead of 8 sheets you only need one.

I suppose you can paint treated plywood after giving it months to dry out. The plywood is very heavy sometimes even slimy due to the moister content of the chemicals its treated with. Paint wont stick to that.

Ron6519 10-26-2011 03:54 PM

Look at this visual. They used hardie board but the install is the same with T-111 siding.
http://tamlyn.com/images/pdf/zflashing.pdf
You might also check out You Tube for videos of this.

oh'mike 10-26-2011 06:07 PM

Just a note---set the blade of the circular saw to cut only as deep as the T-111--

If you got almost 20 years out of the old siding---you might want to just use T-111 again for the repairs.

Paint it well before installing--back--front and all cut edges.


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