Replacing 16' of damaged top plates
A three story house? Does this wall support two stories? " What size and spacing of studs are in place?" Build your temp wall from same size or larger studs. Get it as close to wall as you can and leave barely enough working room. Secure bottom to floor so it doesn't slide out. Secure top plate of temp to joists thru slightly over size holes but do not drive screws home, leave 1/2" or so of head end exposed, so when you jack up fasteners slide up. Insert shims directly above temp studs under joists. Long strips plywood on temp plate.
Not sure how you plan on jacking up from outside, usually jack up with doubled 2X's on edge under joists, jack up evenly, working back and forth from end to end, till snug, cut joists free, jack up evenly til just enuf room to get plate out and in, shim and secure temp wall. Cut studs free, might wanta secure a 2x to faces of studs to be freed and to studs on each side, to keep spacing and alignment.
Probably be easier to work from one end towards other, with two or even 3 shorter plates, free only joists and studs and cut old plate out in that section. Less weight on temp wall. Shorter temp wall, less lumber to buy. Less weight to jack, do not rely on jacks to hold weight, once you get it jacked up put double 2Xcolumns under beam with saddles to hold beam. 3 or 4 foot 2X's on each side of column extendig upwards almost width of beam. Even then temp wall is main support.
Put plate in, fasten studs, lower and fasten joists, move to next section. Keep eye on window, don't wrack frame,jack that section up evenly, best not to have a joint in plate directly under it, so 3 sections might be best. Repair window sill etc after plate work done.
I'm still worried about weight above. especially with nearest other bearing wall 20 feet away.
Measure twice, cut once.
Look at the nail, not the hammer. Watch the fence, not the blade.
If you hook your thumb over your belt you won't hit it with the hammer or leave it layin on the saw table.