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-   -   Replacement Windows & T1-11 (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/replacement-windows-t1-11-a-77928/)

Numb 08-04-2010 03:36 PM

Replacement Windows & T1-11
 
Well, as much as I tried to plan every last detail of my upcoming hardiplank over t1-11 install, you can never plan for the curveballs that life throws at you. It looks like our longer term plans have been condensed substantially, and our plan now is to get the house into shape so we can put it on the market in the spring. I have a friend who's a realtor, and he recommended against putting hardiplank on right before selling... he said the return just wouldn't be there. Our neighborhood is a mix of t1-11 and lap-sided houses, and he said neither one really brings a premium. His advice was to patch the t1-11 anywhere it looked bad, replace the trim, and paint it.

With that in mind, I still need to install the replacement windows that I had made for the house, and that are currently filling up my workshop. These are vinyl replacement windows with integral nailing flanges, and my plan is to install them in a "new construction" fashion. I have read as much as I can on the proper way to install and flash windows, and I was comfortable with my previous plan to install them over the t1-11 and new felt, prior to installing hardiplank, but nothing seems to apply to my situation of installing flanged windows into existing t1-11 that has no sheathing underneath... just studs, felt, and t1-11.

Some people have said to cut back the t1-11 enough to expose the nail fin on the old windows, take them out, install the new ones, flash with tape, and install new trim over the window flange. My concern with that approch is how can you properly flash the window? If the nail flange covers the stud, the flashing tape would just have to be stuck to the unsupported felt adjacent to it... doesn't seem like that would work. Also, the edge of the t1-11 panel would no longer be supported, as it would have been cut back away from the stud.

Is there a better way? Maybe installing the nail flange over the t1-11? I can't envision a way to properly flash that. Maybe just remove the whole t1-11 panel, install the window, and reinstall the t1-11? Still have the issue of what does the window flashing stick to if there is no sheathing. Maybe just run a bead of caulk under the top and sides of the window flange, on top of the existing felt, and then install the trim on top of that?

Even though we're planning on selling next year, I don't want to do a half-assed job on this.

Numb 08-06-2010 10:10 AM

Man... crickets.

The more I think about it, the more I'm leaning towards this method:

- Carefully pull off the whole t1-11 sheet(s) around each window
- Flash around the rough opening with tape/vycor if it doesn't look good already
- Caulk under the window flange on the top and sides
- Lap the existing felt over the top window flange
- Flash the window with tape
- Reinstall the siding
- Install new trim around the window, over the siding.

I wouldn't be able to do a drip cap over the trim, but I could do one over the top of the window. With an integral window flange, is there really any benefit to adding a drip cap?

Also, in this scenario, would I want to leave the gap where the siding meets the top of the window uncaulked, as well as the gap where the upper trim meets the top of the window?

Any other red flags or suggestions before I start tearing into this?

gmhammes 08-06-2010 10:45 AM

Let me know what you decide to do. I will be installing my replacement windows next week. I also opted to get the nail flange put on them as i am more comfortable with new construction vs replacement. My wall materials include studs, 3/4 foam, cedar panels. when i put my sliding door in off the back of the house i flashed the bottom, put the door in and nailed throught he 3/4 foam into the studs and them flashed over the nail flange. i then put 1x4 trim all around the door.

I'll take pictures as i go along if you haven't started before me, but if anyone else wants to chime in, please do.

BigJim 08-06-2010 02:34 PM

Numb, I got to admire your principles, the world could use more folks like you.

Be prepared to buy some more T1-11 as chances are you will mess the flange up on a piece or two removing it. The way you are talking about doing it would IMHO be the best way. As for a drip cap on top, you can buy or have made a metal Z flashing that will go behind the siding and out over the top edge of the window. I always made my Z flashing about 3/8 to 1/2 inch longer to extend out beyond the window on each side so the water wouldn't run down the sides of the windows. Yes you will have to cut a slit in the side pieces of trim and siding for the flashing to recess into but that can be caulked after installation.

Ole Jim

jbula 01-28-2013 07:27 PM

You could cut out old windows and reuse t-1-11 strips that were over flang, install new window and caulk strips with lexal and put over flang of new winow" filling in the gaps....then caulk back side of new trim..done

buddy builder 01-28-2013 09:30 PM

are you planning on replacing all interior jambs and casing? if not then one of your most important things to consider is the depth of the new window compared to the old. are the old windows wood? metal? what i'm saying is if the new vinyl windows interior depth from the flange is greater or less than the old windows then your flanges will not fit correctly to be nailed. if you are planning on doing new trim inside then you are ok. if not, the new window flange may not fit tight on the stud. as suggested i would cut the area around the old flanges off about three eights of an inch wider than needed. the new window flange needs to be considered too. you don't want to cut the old window t-one-eleven out and remove the old windows just to find out you need to cut more to get the new ones in. if your leaving the old interior trim in then see how the new window works and where the new flange is once the window is pushed tight to the old 1x4 jamb. you might fur out the difference to the studs to make the new flange work while saving a ton of work and materials to not re-trim the inside. if you do this then fir out what you need on top of the new flange to become flush with the t-one-eleven. definately put a drip cap overhead. buy this accordingly to whether you are using 2x2 or 1x4 trim. make sure the bent edge is out past the trim. this is your only sure fix against a leak. caulking will crack down the road and unless you have a two foot overhang you are asking for trouble.

Gary in WA 01-29-2013 11:09 PM

"are you planning on replacing all interior jambs and casing? if not then one of your most important things to consider is the depth of the new window compared to the old. are the old windows wood? metal?"--------------- the OP hasn't posted here for a year and a half, he may not answer right away.....

Gary

danpik 01-30-2013 05:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbula (Post 1104455)
You could cut out old windows and reuse t-1-11 strips that were over flang, install new window and caulk strips with lexal and put over flang of new winow" filling in the gaps....then caulk back side of new trim..done

This post is pushing 3 years old. I suspect the OP has already solved the problem and moved on.


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