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-   -   replacement window question (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/replacement-window-question-87078/)

hitmehhh 11-18-2010 04:47 PM

replacement window question
 
The sill adapter on my replacement windows snaps into a track on the bottom of the window. The bottom of the sill adapter was trimmed to fit and caulked at the bottom.There is a very small slit along the top of it which is not covered and is exposed .Should the top be caulked also?

Ron6519 11-18-2010 08:05 PM

Sill adaptors I've worked with are T&G connections where the window bottom goes into the sill adaptor's groove.
Years ago they were just "L" shaped pieces of plastic that were at the bottom.
Which one do you have?
Caulking is generally a short term solution.
Ron

Tom Struble 11-18-2010 08:16 PM

generally they are not caulked,actually the bottoms probably should not be completly caulked,but nobody's gonna like that

i remember the kind you talk about Ron:thumbsup:

hitmehhh 11-19-2010 08:40 AM

replacement window question
 
1 Attachment(s)
Here is a photo of it. As you can see the sill adapter runs right below the weep hole and it snaps into a channel on the face of the window. I am asking about this because I am having a leak on this window and to me this looks like the only spot that may be letting water in.http://www.diychatroom.com/attachmen...1&d=1290177528

Ron6519 11-19-2010 09:53 AM

Doubtful this is the culprit.
You might mention, or better, photos of where the leaking is evident.
You should also detail the window installation process.
Did these windows get installed in the frame of the previous window?
If not and it's actually a flanged new construction window, it's possible the flange wasn't taped over with a flashing membrane, Or.. the flashing membrane was installed incorrectly.
Does the sill caping run under the window, and how far? With a replacement window you can slide the capping back an inch or so which would go under the weep hole plane.
Another issue with water coming in under the window is that water might be getting in below the the new sill of the replacement window and getting into the wall below.
There are a dozen reasons a window leaks. Specifics need to be shared the way your windows were installed.
Ron

hitmehhh 11-19-2010 10:15 AM

replacement window question
 
1 Attachment(s)
Attachment 26906Yes sill cap does run under the window. They were installed in existing frame. Here is a photo of detail on bottom of sill cap which extends past the siding under the window.

Ron6519 11-19-2010 11:02 AM

Where is the water leak?
Next to the window?
Under the window?
Who put the windows in?
Ron

hitmehhh 11-19-2010 11:43 AM

replacement window question
 
We can't tell but if there is a lot of rain that is going against this side of the house we noticed the leak dripping under the window on the sill plate in the basement. It has to be in the immediate area of the window because we had a day with 4" of rainfall and I went out and covered the window with plastic and the leak stopped. We have a rep. from the window company coming to take a look but I just wanted some other input.

Ron6519 11-19-2010 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hitmehhh (Post 536897)
We can't tell but if there is a lot of rain that is going against this side of the house we noticed the leak dripping under the window on the sill plate in the basement. It has to be in the immediate area of the window because we had a day with 4" of rainfall and I went out and covered the window with plastic and the leak stopped. We have a rep. from the window company coming to take a look but I just wanted some other input.

Take more exterior shots, especially of the sides and top. To tell you the truth, this should not make a difference since the new window is in the frame of the old window( that theroetically didn't leak).
The window could leak if the sides and top were not caulked properly. This would trap water under the new window and allow it to find it's way through the frame of the old window and eventually to the area below, given enough rain. The capping hides the new window, old stop interface and any ability to recaulk.
I would remove the apron piece of molding under the window to see under the old sill. You should probably remove the sheetrock and insulation and let it dry out. Water trapped in the wall will promote mold growth and another round of issues. With the wall open, you can see where the water is getting in by a hose controlled washing, simulating rain.
Leaks are usually the result of a bad installation more then faulty window construction.
Ron

DonV 11-19-2010 04:46 PM

I believe that that is a snap on sill adapter and yes they can leak. I know from personal experience. I actually removed my installed window before finding out that was where the leak was. Surprising amount of water was getting through and running down the interior wall through to the basement. I was a little shocked to find that it was the cause of the leak as the joint appeared tight.
Then on I would caulk the adapter before snapping it onto the window.

Simple fix will be to caulk at the top of the adapter with a fine bead of caulking. You may be lucky and that is all it is. If that solves the problem just be sure to maintain the caulk at the joint as such a fine bead will have a tendency to crack

As Ron6519 said it would be nice to see some more pictures of the capping especially at the top. It appears you have an asbestos shingle house and if the installers just turned back their capping at the top and caulked it against the shingle there is a good possibility that the leaking is occurring there. It creates a water trap even if caulked as water migrates through the shingles joints.

Ideally the shingles should be removed, flashing installed up the wall behind the shingles with the flashing extending past the new capping and left unsealed at the shingle joint to let water drain.
Most window crews do not do it properly and just cap over the existing flashing and return to the siding as I described. Most contractors don't want to pay the crews for the extra labor involved and I have had homeowners make me cap against my advice otherwise as they want the old wood covered and don't want to paint.

Just make sure to have the leak stopped and have then pull and reinstall if necessary to determine the source. I've installed windows for quite a while and have learned to kind of hate capping. It traps water which can be doing much unseen damage as it is hidden by the capping. I'd guess a good fifty percent of jobs I do with existing capping on them have some type of water damage underneath.

Tom Struble 11-19-2010 06:26 PM

thats wood shake

many of those casings where probably wrapped right over the rotten wood

i suspect your problem is more likely at the top of the window,water could be leaking at the sill expander but i wouldn't surface caulk the joint,id pull the expander and fill the groove then snap the expander back in

did you post this problem here before?i seem to remember?

kwikfishron 11-19-2010 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomstruble (Post 537112)
thats wood shake

many of those casings where probably wrapped right over the rotten wood

i suspect your problem is more likely at the top of the window,water could be leaking at the sill expander but i wouldn't surface caulk the joint,id pull the expander and fill the groove then snap the expander back in

did you post this problem here before?i seem to remember?

Yes.
http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/window-flashing-79375/

It's simple, get the hose out and find your leak.

Ron6519 11-19-2010 07:13 PM

Now I'm confused. This is still unresolved 3 moths later?
The previous suggestions to investigate didn't work?
The installer came and did what?
What have you been doing since August?
Ron

Tom Struble 11-19-2010 08:30 PM

thats the problem with insert type units,your really just replacing the sash,and any infiltration problems you have around the old frames is still going to be there,thats the main reason i really don't recomend them anymore

hitmehhh 11-20-2010 07:43 AM

The installing company sent a guy and did some caulking op top where the flashing is. I also thought the siding was looking bad so I scraped ,primed , caulked and painted just to button up the siding a little better. I didn't seem to have a problem until we had a hard driving rain last week. I really think there is a problem at the top of the window with the old flashing and half assed caulk job he did. I got in touch with actual installer that actually put the window in as he went back to work for his previous employer ,I have him coming back to look at it as he said" he is the one that put the window in and he needs to make it right".


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