Replace basement sill plate

Bcoleman6

Hi,

We are in the process of finishing our basement and found a 15' section of sill plate which is rotten. This happened because an outdoor sidewalk next to the house had settled and sloped towards the house, this has been repaired. Anyway I now need to replace the sill plate before finishing that part of the basement. The house is a 55 year old 1 story ranch with basement.

What is the best way to go about this and hire someone may be the answer, but I always try to do something myself if possible. Can I build a temp wall; remove the rotten sill plate and pound in a new board? Or because of the weight of the wall above the rim joist do I need to jack up the floor joist a 1/8" to have the space to fit in the new board.

Thanks for the help,
Ben

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CplDevilDog

Temp wall. Nail your topplate to the bottom of your joists and plumb down for your bottom plate. If you cut your studs and 1/8th of an inch long and tap them into place, you'll get enough room to work. If not, grab a pair of screw posts from HD

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oh'mike

What devildog is describing is called a 'Jack Wall'---Make the studs a bit long --toe nail them at the top--(right below the floor joist)
beat them into position with a sledge hammer--a little at a time-(to raise the house evenly)

I've used these many times--I use 2x6 for a heavy lift--Be careful--never try for more than 1 inch of lift at a time.--Mike--

Ron6519

Mike, I've done this a few times and do it in 1/8" increments. Doing 1" at once will crack everything above it.
Ron

oh'mike

What was I thinking---I have gone more than 1/8 on a lift--but you are both right--1" would shatter the studs--and be dangerous---Thanks--

Bcoleman6

Thanks for the help. I went to rent a house jack but can't find a place that rents them, so I may end up using the jack wall method.

oh'mike

The jack wall is easier and safer than house jacks---In a crawl space there is no choice--

You have room--I think the ease of lifting the house that little bit will surprise you.--Mike--

Ron6519

I've used a combination of a 20 ton bottle jack($60.00 at Sears) and a support wall. The jack lifts it up and the wall keeps it there until you're done. I screw 4x4's along the jack line to the ceiling joists. Build the stud wall the way Mike described and just tap them into place as I go along the line. Screw them in place and add some diagonal bracing.
After you're done with the sill plate, just reverse the process.
Jacking rates will vary with conditions. With plaster walls, go slowly. Near a tiled bath, go very slowly. Best case scenario would be a house with sheetrock.
But don't expect to get by with no patch work. There's usually a crack or 2 that shows up.
Ron