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Old 04-24-2011, 08:43 AM   #31
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Replace 2x4 with 2x6 walls


Good choice......sorry...I'm busy....

But I'll be watching for your progress posts...Good Luck

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Old 04-24-2011, 08:51 AM   #32
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Replace 2x4 with 2x6 walls


I most def. will be coming on here and getting advise as I go. I need some warm days though, before I start. Next weekend looks possible.
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Old 04-24-2011, 10:20 AM   #33
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No it was not mentioned earlier.
I used it as a description for the studs being out of plane with each other.

A 5" stud installed next to a 5-1/2" stud will create a "wave" or an uneven plane.

sorry.......
Thanks for the clarification, now I understand where you were coming from. What you say is true and would have to be taken into consideration.

The OP says he will post a photo and that may change my thoughts.

My concern was that modifying a load baring wall is quite an undertaking. If the wall is to be 90% glass and money is no object, a beam would have to placed and this would be a major factor in whether to modify or replace the wall.
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Old 04-24-2011, 10:53 AM   #34
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Replace 2x4 with 2x6 walls


I missed the photos before I made my last post.

It looks to me that the wall in question supports the roof, the second floor wall and upper deck?
Is there a beam in there already? Or are there lintels over the door and windows?
If the plan is to install patio doors, a beam will surely be required. I have sliding patio doors at my place and I would not consider these again. In fact, I'm considering having them taken out and replaced with French doors. Sliders don't seal up very well.
I think that you will have to decide what type of openings that you want and the type of siding. Then work back from there.
And if a beam is required, the upper deck will have to be removed temporarily, and its ledger reattached to the beam.
I would suggest that you would employ a structural engineer for advice. Its too complex for an amateur like myself.
For me, I would fur it up inside, insulate it and install good doors and windows. It may cost upwards of $5000 to build out the existing wall. If the wall is replaced and a beam installed, it may be $50,000. I say this, as I have just completed cosmetic renos. in my present home and its just tallied up to $25,000 and I have made no structural changes.

Last edited by Wildie; 04-24-2011 at 10:54 AM. Reason: lintel>ledger
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Old 04-25-2011, 12:19 PM   #35
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Replace 2x4 with 2x6 walls


Appears you are in Zone 7, R-21 required (minimum) in the walls; http://publicecodes.citation.com/ico...001_par001.htm

http://publicecodes.citation.com/ico..._11_sec002.htm

I suggest foam board outside to keep your OSB dry from interior R.H; http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/...wall-sheathing

http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/...foam-sheathing

Calculator your dew point; http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/...ally-necessary

I’d go with a rainscreen if allowed in your area. OSB, Tyvek, foam with seams taped, gap by strapping, back-primed Cedar siding. http://www.greenhomebuilding.com/pdf/RainScreen.pdf

Need better support than one floor joist below, running parallel to wall if total replace, for temp wall.

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Old 04-25-2011, 02:46 PM   #36
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I talked to a structural engineer this morning. He explained it to me much more thorough than I had even thought. Basically he said that I can do what I want to do, but I need to make sure that I carry the gable end of the roof load all the way down to my foundation. He said best scenario would be a laminated beam the entire length of the the wall with double crippler studs each side of the patio door, then make sure I have studs below them on the basement wall foundation. Since I am going to be working this myself, he said I could also just use a laminated beam above the patio door, roughly 10' 2" or what ever it works out to be with the RO for the door. Then, again I need to make sure that I see the weight carried to the foundation. Any structural work I do above this floor also needs to be done in a manor that carries the load properly. He liked the idea of me replacing the entire wall instead of piece mailing it together. I feel better, and confident now.
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Old 04-25-2011, 08:23 PM   #37
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Replace 2x4 with 2x6 walls


Have you considered building a 2nd 2x4 wall? This is what i did in a similar situation in my house. I build a second wall 1/2" away from the exterior wall. This made the exterior wall solid insulation, 1/2 air gap, 2nd 2x4 wall with wiring and such, then vapour barrier. This makes for some very nice window sills and jambs, plus you will never notice the room is any smaller.

Just a thought.
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Old 04-25-2011, 09:37 PM   #38
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I talked to a structural engineer this morning. He explained it to me much more thorough than I had even thought. Basically he said that I can do what I want to do, but I need to make sure that I carry the gable end of the roof load all the way down to my foundation. He said best scenario would be a laminated beam the entire length of the the wall with double crippler studs each side of the patio door, then make sure I have studs below them on the basement wall foundation. Since I am going to be working this myself, he said I could also just use a laminated beam above the patio door, roughly 10' 2" or what ever it works out to be with the RO for the door. Then, again I need to make sure that I see the weight carried to the foundation. Any structural work I do above this floor also needs to be done in a manor that carries the load properly. He liked the idea of me replacing the entire wall instead of piece mailing it together. I feel better, and confident now.
Now you will have to see how much money you will need to do this?
Screwy, mentioned build another wall inside of the first one and this could have merrit also.
I did this once, also and taking 5" from the room is hardly noticed.

P.S. What did he say about the 2nd level deck?

Last edited by Wildie; 04-25-2011 at 09:43 PM. Reason: Add post script
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Old 04-26-2011, 02:34 AM   #39
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Replace 2x4 with 2x6 walls


Have you thought about using spray foam insulation?

will give you a better r value, possibly save you from building out your 2x4 wall like you are talking about to achieve better insulation, won't need a vapour barrier either.
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Old 04-26-2011, 05:36 AM   #40
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He liked the idea of me replacing the entire wall instead of piece mailing it together. I feel better, and confident now.
Good for you.
Sounds like you're on the right track.

Budget is always an issue but do it once and do it right.
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Old 04-26-2011, 06:07 AM   #41
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Have you thought about using spray foam insulation?

will give you a better r value, possibly save you from building out your 2x4 wall like you are talking about to achieve better insulation, won't need a vapour barrier either.
I have, and I may go that route even though I use a 2x6 wall, and even though I have already purchased the insulation.
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Old 04-26-2011, 06:11 AM   #42
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Foam also adds structural integrity .....
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Old 04-26-2011, 06:12 AM   #43
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Now you will have to see how much money you will need to do this?
Screwy, mentioned build another wall inside of the first one and this could have merrit also.
I did this once, also and taking 5" from the room is hardly noticed.

P.S. What did he say about the 2nd level deck?
Everything is purchase right now for the project except the laminated beam. Cost will be mostly in glass, I figured roughly 6500 for everything, not including the replacement of the old deck which I may not do right away.

The 2nd floor deck is not really an issue. It is small and attached to the rim joist not the studs.
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Old 04-26-2011, 06:14 AM   #44
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Foam also adds structural integrity .....
The engineer recommended foam, but he didn't mention integrity he mentioned that it seals everything up much better. I may buy one of those kits and do it myself.
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Old 04-26-2011, 07:48 AM   #45
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One step that was encouraged was to try to keep the top plates intact for several feet out from the corners. Stagger the cuts and splice in to match the new 2x6 top plates. This will tie in the corners much better.

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