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Old 04-23-2011, 04:36 PM   #16
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Replace 2x4 with 2x6 walls


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Hardly worth the trouble of ripping the furring to be exactly 2". I doubt that the payback would be worth the time and labor to do so.
It'll be worth the trouble when your studs are 1/2" out of plane with each other.....

....are you suggesting to just ignore the wave the wall would have in it?

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Old 04-23-2011, 06:34 PM   #17
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Replace 2x4 with 2x6 walls


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It'll be worth the trouble when your studs are 1/2" out of plane with each other.....

....are you suggesting to just ignore the wave the wall would have in it?
I must be having a seniors moment, as I'm not following you about the wave. Was a wave mentioned in a previous post and I missed it?
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Old 04-24-2011, 06:21 AM   #18
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Replace 2x4 with 2x6 walls


I will get a picture of the offending wall, that may help everyone see it.
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Old 04-24-2011, 06:38 AM   #19
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I must be having a seniors moment, as I'm not following you about the wave. Was a wave mentioned in a previous post and I missed it?
No it was not mentioned earlier.
I used it as a description for the studs being out of plane with each other.

A 5" stud installed next to a 5-1/2" stud will create a "wave" or an uneven plane.

sorry.......
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Old 04-24-2011, 07:12 AM   #20
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Replace 2x4 with 2x6 walls


Here are some photos. First, the view from the deck, then some shots of outside and inside. Lighting didn't allow inside shots to turn out so good. These windows and the door are junk. Snow fills in between the storm and the glass during blizzards. We lose a bunch of heat from this wall right now.

As you can see, still cold here in northern MN. Ice not out of the lake yet. I wouldn't walk on it though!






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Old 04-24-2011, 07:26 AM   #21
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Replace 2x4 with 2x6 walls


The ceiling joist run perpendicular to the wall, the floor joist run parallel.
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Old 04-24-2011, 07:31 AM   #22
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Replace 2x4 with 2x6 walls


Thanks for the pics.
Gun for the door to door salesmen???

Is that T-111 siding?

Is that a deck above?

Are you leaving the siding or replacing with new?

T-111 is a bear to flash properly.
Typically the windows and doors are attached directly to the framing, counter-flashed and T-111 installed around the opening.

Soooo if you're ripping off all the siding......oh shoot...I'm still not convinced either way.

I would decide what my finishes will be and work backward from there.
I think the wall thickness and whether you remove all the wall or not, is the least of your initial decisions.

Just my 2
Nice place
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Old 04-24-2011, 07:33 AM   #23
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Yes siding is being replaced with cedar bevel 6 inch. Windows and doors trimmed with rough sawn 2x4 cedar. Yes deck is above as well. All is getting replaced, decks too. BB gun is just for kicks!
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Old 04-24-2011, 07:41 AM   #24
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So is it T-111 existing?

That's your sheathing and siding...........
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Old 04-24-2011, 07:55 AM   #25
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T 111 is coming off, replaced with osb, then the cedar bevel siding. Entire house eventually, but right now one wall at a time. I may use the T111 as sheathing and side over it elsewhere, but for this wall since so much is changing I am going with OSB
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Old 04-24-2011, 08:04 AM   #26
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2 stories?
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Old 04-24-2011, 08:13 AM   #27
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Yes....
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Old 04-24-2011, 08:33 AM   #28
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Rough opening for the slider is 9'9 3/4". Wonder if I need to buy a laminated beam for the header or just double up a 2x.
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Old 04-24-2011, 08:37 AM   #29
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10' span with 2nd floor joists bearing on it .......overbuild if anything.

Did you mention what brand of 9' slider?
I just replaced 2 of them with Marvins.




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Old 04-24-2011, 08:41 AM   #30
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400 Series Anderson. Frenchwood glider. Nice, I like your work. Busy next week?

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