DIY Home Improvement Forum banner

Replace 2x4 with 2x6 walls

43K views 61 replies 10 participants last post by  kid 
#1 ·
I am tearing out a 30 foot long wall in my house, putting in a double sliding door and two windows. The original wall has two large windows and a door, built with 2x4 studs. Everything is going to go, siding, interior paneling and all the doors and glass. My plan was to rip some strips of 2xs and add them to the 2x4 studs to bring them to 2x6 dimensions. Others tell me to just tear the wall down and re-frame with 2x6 from the get go. What do the experts here suggest? I have windows, patio door (and extension jams) purchased and waiting for warmer weather. Anderson 400 series.
 
#2 ·
Keep in mind with a complete tear-out, the rafters/ceiling joists need the proper nailing (which may require roof section removal, if unable using palm nailer) to the top plate.(If one-story). Along with positive ties with metal H-1's, if required. You would need to add anchor bolts in the concrete (if so) to bring the wall up to today's Code. Pull the wiring involved and install again.
Will you be insulating outside of siding to meet/exceed today's minimum Code, or just adding cavity insulation? You could do both to make up for the large window heat loss. Or just furr the existing, adding 1/2" foam on the inside, at the drywall for a thermal break. Either way, be sure to use the ADA with drywall; http://www.buildingscience.com/docu...rs/air-barriers2014airtight-drywall-approach/ Foam board outside is the best approach to keep your sheathing (especially OSB) from reaching the dew point on the inside; http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com...lating-minimum-thickness-rigid-foam-sheathing

http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/are-dew-point-calculations-really-necessary

If on the sunny side of the house, use a rain-screen approach; http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/when-sunshine-drives-moisture-walls

What will you be using for a vapor retarder/barrier?

Gary
 
#3 ·
I am leaning towards tearing the old out and replacing with new studs and top, bottom plates. So, new insulation, vapor barrier, sheathing, (osb) siding, and on the inside, poly and sheetrock. It just seems to be the easiest way. I will have to build a temporary wall for support as I tear it out. I am spending a ton on sliding patio doors and windows, why skimp on the construction. Still open for knowledge and advise as I do this.
 
#4 ·
I'm thinking it's six one way and 1/2 dozen the other. Is there any reason I wonder why the 6" would be stronger than the 2x4 with strip screwed into it? I'm guessing probably not. It sure will be amazingly easier to add to the wall than to take all that out if there is a lot of electrical, plumbing, etc. etc. But to rip it out is probably the A+ way to do it. I guess to me it would depend on whether or not your staying in that house for a long time or if your just sprucing up to sell down the road.

I've never heard of anyone saying that adding strips to existing lumber is not to code, but if anyone knows i'd like to hear it. I guess you are adding the weight of a 2x6 wall to what is a 2x4 constructed wall which may mean extra support.
 
#5 ·
I'm no expert, but there's no way in hell that I would be removing a whole wall. Especially an outside wall. Invariably, outsie walls are carrying a structural load.
If you wish to make the wall thicker to add insulation it can be furred out using 2X2's.
However, if you want more insulation an easier way would be to add sheets of expanded foam insulation on the outside of the 2X4 framing and use batt insulation between the studs.
2X6 studs are used as an economical way of making walls thicker, so that more insulation can be added, in new construction. Just to rip out a whole wall to add 2X6 studs makes no economic sense. :no:
 
#6 ·
I can see your point, but my thoughts are if I am replacing windows and doors along the entire wall, and the new windows and doors are not even close to being the same size or in the same locations, I am basically having to rebuild the wall anyway. So why not beef it up, better insulate it and make it new. The cost of the new insulation and studs is minimal compared to the 5 grand in windows I am sticking in. This wall overlooks a lake.
 
#8 ·
Ripping out the whole wall sounds easy when you're just addressing the new openings. It's when it comes down to tying into all the small details that you will realize how much harder and longer building a new wall will take.
Not worth it IMHO.

Do all your framing for your new doors and windows with 2x6.
Then fur the rest of the wall to the new "plane".

....signed,
Remodeler for 30 years. Done it both ways.
 
#10 ·
Existing corners need to be separated from the return corner and now you have to come up with an inside nailer for your wallcovering.
Top plate needs to be tied into rafters. (think about how to get at the last one on each end)
Shoe will extend into your existing flooring dealing with details in the corners.

Maybe you don't mind overcoming those types of extra work.
 
#11 ·
Thank you. These are things that I did think about. The other walls will be re-done as this one is in the future, but not right now due to time and money. This floor is the middle floor, so the rafters are not the issue. I am open to any suggestions though, especially from a seasoned re modeler!
 
#12 ·
I guess my reply would be....
Since the building has been standing on it's own for a while, the only reason for the added wall depth is for insulation.

So do it with whatever way you are comfortable.
If building a temp wall for support and dust protection is the way you like...then go for it.

If my way makes sense, then do it that way.

There's always more that one way to do any project and they can all be the right way.:thumbsup:
 
#14 ·
I guess in my minds eye, I see it easier. The ceiling is going to be re-rocked eventually too. Maybe I am not explaining the project very well. Once I start tearing the paneling off I may decide to do it differently. No plumbing and only a light switch and two outlets on the wall. It is insulated like cr@p right now, and the wood paneling is warped. I can look right in to the wall in a couple joints, and I see foil faced insulation.
 
#20 ·
Here are some photos. First, the view from the deck, then some shots of outside and inside. Lighting didn't allow inside shots to turn out so good. These windows and the door are junk. Snow fills in between the storm and the glass during blizzards. We lose a bunch of heat from this wall right now.

As you can see, still cold here in northern MN. Ice not out of the lake yet. I wouldn't walk on it though!






 
#22 ·
Thanks for the pics.
Gun for the door to door salesmen???:laughing:

Is that T-111 siding?

Is that a deck above?

Are you leaving the siding or replacing with new?

T-111 is a bear to flash properly.
Typically the windows and doors are attached directly to the framing, counter-flashed and T-111 installed around the opening.

Soooo if you're ripping off all the siding......oh shoot...I'm still not convinced either way.

I would decide what my finishes will be and work backward from there.
I think the wall thickness and whether you remove all the wall or not, is the least of your initial decisions.

Just my 2¢
Nice place:thumbsup:
 
#25 ·
T 111 is coming off, replaced with osb, then the cedar bevel siding. Entire house eventually, but right now one wall at a time. I may use the T111 as sheathing and side over it elsewhere, but for this wall since so much is changing I am going with OSB
 
#34 · (Edited)
I missed the photos before I made my last post.

It looks to me that the wall in question supports the roof, the second floor wall and upper deck?
Is there a beam in there already? Or are there lintels over the door and windows?
If the plan is to install patio doors, a beam will surely be required. I have sliding patio doors at my place and I would not consider these again. In fact, I'm considering having them taken out and replaced with French doors. Sliders don't seal up very well.
I think that you will have to decide what type of openings that you want and the type of siding. Then work back from there.
And if a beam is required, the upper deck will have to be removed temporarily, and its ledger reattached to the beam.
I would suggest that you would employ a structural engineer for advice. Its too complex for an amateur like myself.
For me, I would fur it up inside, insulate it and install good doors and windows. It may cost upwards of $5000 to build out the existing wall. If the wall is replaced and a beam installed, it may be $50,000. I say this, as I have just completed cosmetic renos. in my present home and its just tallied up to $25,000 and I have made no structural changes.
 
#35 ·
Appears you are in Zone 7, R-21 required (minimum) in the walls; http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_11_sec001_par001.htm

http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_11_sec002.htm

I suggest foam board outside to keep your OSB dry from interior R.H; http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/how-risky-cold-osb-wall-sheathing

http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com...lating-minimum-thickness-rigid-foam-sheathing

Calculator your dew point; http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/are-dew-point-calculations-really-necessary

I’d go with a rainscreen if allowed in your area. OSB, Tyvek, foam with seams taped, gap by strapping, back-primed Cedar siding. http://www.greenhomebuilding.com/pdf/RainScreen.pdf

Need better support than one floor joist below, running parallel to wall if total replace, for temp wall.

Gary
 
#36 ·
I talked to a structural engineer this morning. He explained it to me much more thorough than I had even thought. Basically he said that I can do what I want to do, but I need to make sure that I carry the gable end of the roof load all the way down to my foundation. He said best scenario would be a laminated beam the entire length of the the wall with double crippler studs each side of the patio door, then make sure I have studs below them on the basement wall foundation. Since I am going to be working this myself, he said I could also just use a laminated beam above the patio door, roughly 10' 2" or what ever it works out to be with the RO for the door. Then, again I need to make sure that I see the weight carried to the foundation. Any structural work I do above this floor also needs to be done in a manor that carries the load properly. He liked the idea of me replacing the entire wall instead of piece mailing it together. I feel better, and confident now.
 
#37 ·
Have you considered building a 2nd 2x4 wall? This is what i did in a similar situation in my house. I build a second wall 1/2" away from the exterior wall. This made the exterior wall solid insulation, 1/2 air gap, 2nd 2x4 wall with wiring and such, then vapour barrier. This makes for some very nice window sills and jambs, plus you will never notice the room is any smaller.

Just a thought.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top