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-   -   Repair rotten wall stud next to window (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/repair-rotten-wall-stud-next-window-156194/)

7xv 09-08-2012 02:06 PM

Repair rotten wall stud next to window
 
What's the best way to replace the rotten portion at the bottom of wall studs and the plate they are sitting on? The stud is next to a window.
Thanks.

joecaption 09-08-2012 02:11 PM

Post a picture.
Figured out where the leak came from yet?

notmrjohn 09-08-2012 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 1005585)
Figured out where the leak came from yet?

Most likely from window

user1007 09-08-2012 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by notmrjohn (Post 1005599)
Most likely from window

Wow and you didn't even need a picture!:laughing::laughing:You did not beat Joe in responding first though!

kwikfishron 09-08-2012 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by notmrjohn (Post 1005599)
Most likely from window


Itís actually pretty rare for the window itself to be the problem.

More times then not these issues are caused by either lack of maintenance, rotted trim, siding or flashing, or just a bad installation to begin with.

+1 on the picture. I have yet to been able to troubleshoot, diagnose and devise a fix for a window/siding leak and the damage caused by it sight unseen. :whistling2:

7xv 09-08-2012 08:43 PM

Repair rotten wall stud next to window
 
1 Attachment(s)
You've got it... .deferred maintenance is the reason. termites were a problem at one time, they are gone now.

It's a childrens' playhouse constructed the early 50's.

I've attached a picture.

Thanks for the constructive response........

allthumbsdiy 09-08-2012 09:49 PM

Just a side note that you may want to get that window tested for lead if you are going to have children play near it.

7xv 09-08-2012 10:06 PM

Good thought, thanks.

oodssoo 09-08-2012 11:01 PM

You, first, should evaluate the severity of the termite damage found in the framing. It's hard to see that damage. Secondly, if it seriously requires replacement, just take out the existing one and replace it with new. The base plate looks fine, though some damage is visible. But you should consider the role it plays vs the vertical studs.

Hope this helps.

mae-ling 09-09-2012 12:01 AM

If it is only the lower portion it may be possible to cut out the bad section put in a new section and sister a new full size one beside it.

kwikfishron 09-09-2012 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 7xv (Post 1005845)
You've got it... .deferred maintenance is the reason. termites were a problem at one time, they are gone now.

Iím not so sure about the termites but what I do see is years of water getting behind the window trim and running down the wall.

The window trim being installed ďoverĒ the lap siding is the problem. The problem with trim over the siding is that it leaves a gap to large to effectively be caulked and the perfect place to collect and trap water.

The window trim should be installed first and then the siding butts into the trim and then that joint gets caulked.

After you replace the rotted wood you should cut back the siding and install thicker trim so the siding can terminate into it. The reason for thicker trim is because you want the trim to be proud of the siding so youíll have nice surface to caulk.

7xv 09-09-2012 09:39 AM

That makes sense to me...
Many thanks!

hand drive 09-09-2012 10:28 AM

that does not look to bad at all, though the pic does not show perfect detail. take a hammer and whack the stud in a few areas to determine the severity of the rot and you can possibly just "scab" a 2x next to the previously rotten one, put siding back up and be done with it. The trick is to stop the water from entering and it will rot no further... even better depending on your skil level is to pull out the rotten and replace with new, getting it tied back together correctly is the key and you could do more damage than good if not done right...

notmrjohn 09-09-2012 03:59 PM

2 Attachment(s)
See, kwik, i told you it was the window.:wink: I don't think the trim was just installed over the siding, it looks like the trim is whats holding the window in place, along with the sill which looks like its in a notch in the stud, or sitting on the "cripple". All of which is fine for this playhouse, which has lasted some 50 yrs or so after all. Termites didn't cause the problem, but they are drawn to damp, rotted, soft wood, 'specially the older ones that wear dentures.
7, hand is drivin in the right direction, but you wanta get that rotted stuff outta there,I'd replace a section of that sill plate, too, doing it in sections will be a bit easier, if more tedious. I dunno your skill level, its not hard if you can saw a reasonably straight square line and have an electric drill. A play house is a good place to learn. ( some Locals use "playhouses" as appretice test.) I don't think that house is gonna take a lot of hammer whakin. I too was constructed in the 50's and I can't withstand much bein whacked on with a hammer myself. Poke at the studs and plate with a screw driver or pen knife, ( I really can't withstand much of that, but, except for my head, I aint made of wood) start at the bottom and work up and you'll soon learn the feel of sound wood. The one on right looks like ya don't even have to go a foot up.But go at least that far and cut the stud, as straight and square as you can, then pry it out. From the looks of the enterior walls, I don't think you will have to use any temp. bracing, but you could put a 2X off to right out of way between the plate and that horizontal brace ("fire block"?). Cut the sill plate off to right and left of stud, pry it out. Pull, cut, or bend over any nails. Cut a 2X4 sill piece to fit, this doesn't have to be exact, nail it in place. cut a 2X4 to fit missing stud piece, this should be more precise, but doesn't have to be perfect. Then scab a couple of 2x4 or 1X4's on, a couple of feet long. I'd screw the scabs on, less bouncy, and less stress on house. 4 or 5 screws each side of joint, you might get by with simple lap joint. Playhouse situation is place where a lot of screws and inside outside siding can make up for imprecise fit. Do the other stud same way, looks like you have to go higher, or might get by with just part under window. Might have to temp block under window and cut sill out in two pieces.
Kwik tole ya how to do the rest.
Let us know if for some reason you seem to have gotten hold of some undersized 2x4's that don't match the ones in place. Up thru the 60's 2x4's wuz bigger by a quarter inch, 3 3/4" wide instead of 3 1/2" shouldn't cause a problem, but you can shift your scabs in and out or add a filler. I also seem to remember a period of 3 5/8" but that could just be my brain pullin one of its hilarious jokes on me again.
i've worked on older houses where 2x4 was a 2x4, sometimes unplaned, if you don't pay attention you can run into problems too late for simple correction.
You can do this, we have confedence in you, 7, if indeed that is your number.:huh:

LPSmartSide 09-10-2012 11:30 AM

Nice sized playhouse. If you replace the siding, you might consider one that stands up to freeze-thaw cycles and hail, and resists fungal decay and termites. LP SmartSide engineered wood siding does the aforementioned. Best wishes on this project. Thank you, Patrick


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