Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Building & Construction

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 02-09-2009, 10:16 AM   #1
Josh
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Oak Park, IL
Posts: 6
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Removing a stud, not damaging "back" wall


Hi there...
I am a newbie DIYer, having recently purchased a nearly 100-year-old house (we are coming up on celebrating the centennial of our house, along with the centennial year of the Titanic maiden and final voyage). The age of our house has brought out the DIYer in me, and I have cut my teeth on a number of both small and large projects.

My question is this... I am doing a full renovation of my bathroom, and my wife has decided that she would like me to convert a conventional door to a pocket door to maximize space in our small bathroom. The walls are drywall over plaster and lath on one side of the wall and simply plaster on the opposite side (i.e. the next room over). To install the pocket door I will need to cut out a stud, thereby taking the adjacent room's lath off of the stud. How do I do this without damaging the adjacent/ back wall's plaster and proving enough "support" for the lath and plaster on the back wall. This project, at least in my mind, is a no-go if I can't do this without renovating the wall in the adjacent room.

Thanks a bunch...

JoshuaBaron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2009, 10:37 AM   #2
Old School
 
Willie T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: St. Petersburg, FL Minds of moderate caliber ordinarily condemn everything which is beyond them.
Posts: 3,634
Rewards Points: 2,000
Default

Removing a stud, not damaging "back" wall


Sounds like a job a Milwaukee Sawzall fitted with a 5" (# 40-00-5052) plaster blade might handle well. They cut a pretty clean line without tearing up too much of the wall... cuts on both forward and back strokes, and that seems to help in reducing the vibration.

If you have to buy one, purchase only Milwaukee. The rest are kind of inadequate compared to the original Sawzall.

__________________
"True eloquence consists in saying all that is necessary, and only that which is."
François Duc de La Rochefoucauld
Willie T
Willie T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2009, 11:31 AM   #3
Josh
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Oak Park, IL
Posts: 6
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Removing a stud, not damaging "back" wall


Thanks for the suggestion!

Will the plaster wall on "the other side" be stable if I do not reattach the lathe and plaster to a stud? Since this is for a pocket door, I would need to remove probably 2 studs (16 in x 2 = 32 inch width).

Thanks again... just want to be sure.
JoshuaBaron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2009, 11:40 AM   #4
Old School
 
Willie T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: St. Petersburg, FL Minds of moderate caliber ordinarily condemn everything which is beyond them.
Posts: 3,634
Rewards Points: 2,000
Default

Removing a stud, not damaging "back" wall


Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshuaBaron View Post
Thanks for the suggestion!

Will the plaster wall on "the other side" be stable if I do not reattach the lathe and plaster to a stud? Since this is for a pocket door, I would need to remove probably 2 studs (16 in x 2 = 32 inch width).

Thanks again... just want to be sure.
Although you may have a lot of nails/screws sticking through the backside of the adjacent wall's lath boards... and you WILL have a fair amount of hard plaster blobs weeping through the same lath, you should be able to tap and clip enough of those off to screw the pocket door frame cross members to that other wall from the back side. That will keep the other wall steady and relatively solid. Just be CERTAIN to get all your new screws sunk real good so they won't scratch the door as it slides. This happens a lot!!
__________________
"True eloquence consists in saying all that is necessary, and only that which is."
François Duc de La Rochefoucauld
Willie T
Willie T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2009, 12:10 PM   #5
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,702
Rewards Points: 1,224
Default

Removing a stud, not damaging "back" wall


I don't see this happening without totally screwing up the plaster wall you're trying to save. If you remove the two studs supporting the plaster lath that supports the plaster then the plaster will crack in the best case scenario that I can imagine.
jogr is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2009, 12:21 PM   #6
Not so new
 
12penny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Lehigh Valley, Pa.
Posts: 934
Rewards Points: 504
Default

Removing a stud, not damaging "back" wall


Josh.... I know you want this to be easy but I'm afraid it wont be. I would try a fine tooth blade. Also make sure you take out enough to get a header and jack stud in.
12penny is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2009, 12:55 PM   #7
Josh
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Oak Park, IL
Posts: 6
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Removing a stud, not damaging "back" wall


Uh-oh... dissenting opinions. When you suggest I could ruin the wall, are we talking about chunks of plaster falling down on the "good" side of the wall or hairline cracks?
JoshuaBaron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2009, 01:21 PM   #8
Tool Geek
 
PaliBob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Pacific Palisades CA
Posts: 2,534
Rewards Points: 2,048
Default

Removing a stud, not damaging "back" wall


Josh,
A pocket door may not be the only solution. Is there room to change the swing of the existing door so that it swings out instead of into the Bathroom?
__________________
Disclaimer
& Stay Safe
.....Bob Lavery
PaliBob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2009, 02:26 PM   #9
Not so new
 
12penny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Lehigh Valley, Pa.
Posts: 934
Rewards Points: 504
Default

Removing a stud, not damaging "back" wall


Josh, heres the thing.....if its wood lath under the plaster, how to you get the stud out? The lath strips are nailed to it. I dont see how you can do it without damaging plaster. My house was built brand new with an outswing door in the powder room. I like PaliBobs idea best.
12penny is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2009, 04:24 PM   #10
Josh
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Oak Park, IL
Posts: 6
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Removing a stud, not damaging "back" wall


Thank you all very much for your take on this. As much as I would love to have my pocket door, I don't want to sabotage the integrity of the adjacent room. The prospect of having plaster raining down is too scary...
JoshuaBaron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2009, 01:49 AM   #11
Household Handyman
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Albany, Ga.
Posts: 2,284
Rewards Points: 1,020
Default

Removing a stud, not damaging "back" wall


Josh, I'm a little confused as to what you are actually trying to accomplish. I'm thinking you are wanting to remove one or more studs that have wood lathing attached to them and NOT cut out the plaster or lathing. This I have done. If I can see the back side of the plaster wall and the wooden lathing strips I have tapped each strip to try and move it just enough to get a hacksaw blade between the stud and lathing. Sometimes a three inch wide, stiff scraper helps to do this also. IF I can get this clearance then I use one of those hacksaw frames that hold half of the blade in the handle and go down the stud and cut any nails that were used to nail the lathing on. I have removed bad studs this way to replace them, you have a different situation. You are not wanting to replace the studs. Personally, I think you could remove no more than two adjacent studs without compromising the plaster wall. Or, you could install a 1 x 4 or 1 x 6 flat to the wall to give strength between the floor and top plate. This should clear your new pocket door as most of these houses used true 2 x 4 studs. I hope this helps, Good Luck. Thanks, David
Thurman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2009, 08:32 AM   #12
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Western Masschusetts
Posts: 575
Rewards Points: 500
Default

Removing a stud, not damaging "back" wall


hey man,
just gut both sides of the wall as much as you need.
there's nothig sacred about a small piece of plaster there, and you might as well leave yourself a lot of space for working. then just drywall it over.
except for skimminng and painting, this is the easiest part of the job - muchc easier than installing the pocket door.

just chop it out.
wombosi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2009, 08:56 AM   #13
Old School
 
Willie T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: St. Petersburg, FL Minds of moderate caliber ordinarily condemn everything which is beyond them.
Posts: 3,634
Rewards Points: 2,000
Default

Removing a stud, not damaging "back" wall


There are three 9" Sawzall blades I find work super well for cutting nails behind studs:

48-00-5026
48-00-5705
48-00-5787

The first one is my favorite. They will all cost you about $5 each. (The way they are listed here are packs of 5) They get behind studs, and cut the nails like butter.

I put in a pocket door on my bathroom too. And I had plaster on both sides. No problems other than having to relocate an electrical box on the side I took out. Trust me, on a typical small (5' x 7') bath, pocket doors make all the difference... especially if two of you are bouncing off each other in there.
__________________
"True eloquence consists in saying all that is necessary, and only that which is."
François Duc de La Rochefoucauld
Willie T
Willie T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2009, 10:28 AM   #14
Josh
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Oak Park, IL
Posts: 6
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Removing a stud, not damaging "back" wall


OK... so the verdict is in. I spent all yesterday taking down the lathe and plaster from the bathroom side of the wall (what a mess!) before I borrowed my neighbor's Sawzall and bought the recommended blades.

I am sorry to say that the plaster wall on the other side cracked in a major way, in spite of taking things slowly and using as clean an approach as possible. Interestingly, that wall had drywall next to plaster, and it appears that the buckling occurred where the drywall met the plaster. It makes me wonder if someone tried to fool with the plaster once before and ended up ruining it, thereafter replacing a piece with drywall.

The good news is that we are hiring someone to drywall the bathroom and will have him just throw up a couple more pieces on the other side of the wall. It was worth a try though.

Oh... one last question, for Willie. When you put up the split jambs, how do you affix the jambs to the header on the occluded side of the wall? Did you just put in one nail that went through one jamb, through the header and across to other jamb?

Thank you all for your suggestions!

JoshuaBaron is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
drywall, plaster, pocket door


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
removing wall tiles for new cabinets measure thrice Tiling, ceramics, marble 1 02-03-2009 08:03 AM
Stud wall Joe F Carpentry 4 08-04-2008 03:18 PM
removing objects from tile wall lanaj7206 General DIY Discussions 5 06-30-2008 07:55 PM
Rough in / stud wall location help? Taipans Building & Construction 11 06-18-2008 10:41 AM
framing conundrum: 2" PVC vent pipe going horizontal through 2x4 studs amakarevic Building & Construction 18 01-19-2008 07:47 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.