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Old 04-05-2013, 10:56 AM   #1
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Removing an Interior Wall Question


I have asked 3 different framers and have received almost 3 different answers. The scenario:
I have a steel beam that runs north/south in my basement. It spans from foundation wall to foundation wall. The entire beam is supported by a 2 x 6 frame wall underneath in the basement. The floor joists (2x10s) on that beam run east/west with one end of the joist resting on the beam, the other on the foundation. The span is 13'. One of these joists is a double 2x10. On the main floor is a dining room wall that sits right on top of that double 2x10. This wall also runs east/west with the west end of it on top of the foundation. This wall is only 11 feet long so the other side (the east side) doesn't quite reach the steel beam. This wall supports some load from the second floor. I say some, because most of the upstairs joists run parallel to this wall. However, the bedroom (about 11' x 11') above this has joists that run North/Sount from foundation wall to this wall.
The plan:
Remove most of the dining room wall and install a header to open up the room. Now, instead of the weight being distributed along 11 feet of that double joist, it will be on two points. One, the west end I am not concerned with as it will rest on top of the double joists on top of the foundation. The other end will rest on top of the double joists about 2' off of the steel beam.
The question:
Do I now need a post in the basement directly under that end of the wall?
I hope I explained this ok...
Thanks,
Dan
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Old 04-05-2013, 11:07 AM   #2
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Removing an Interior Wall Question


changing the load from the entire wall (11 feet spanned and supported continuously ) to one single point load on that double might not work. if it was a double lvl joist under wall I'd say no problem...
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Old 04-05-2013, 11:26 AM   #3
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Removing an Interior Wall Question


The basement is finished but I have to pop the subfloor there to re-route electrical and plumbing. If I can get to the entire span and add a single lvl or another 2x10...would that suffice? Someone else mentioned a 2x10 x1/2" steel plate bolted to the existing joist the entire length...

Thoughts?
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Old 04-05-2013, 11:29 AM   #4
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Removing an Interior Wall Question


No you don't need another post. The load will be transferred to the steel beam through the double 2 x 10. Just make sure the sole plate is below the King and trimmer (Jack stud) Coming down from the header.

It is odd that your steel beam is not supported by lally columns in the basement. Are you sure it is not, and the continuous wall is just a curtain wall?
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Old 04-05-2013, 11:51 AM   #5
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Removing an Interior Wall Question


if you add blocks between the double and surrounding joists where it lands on the I-beam it will help keep the double from tipping ( a major concern with single load points, IMO) the double needs to be nailed to subfloor really good as well- another somewhat tip preventive measure and as Jagans mentions, follow the normal anatomy of wall construction when forming the corner post.
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Old 04-05-2013, 12:26 PM   #6
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Removing an Interior Wall Question


No you don't need another post. The load will be transferred to the steel beam through the double 2 x 10. Just make sure the sole plate is below the King and trimmer (Jack stud) Coming down from the header.

It is odd that your steel beam is not supported by lally columns in the basement. Are you sure it is not, and the continuous wall is just a curtain wall?

-- The beam is not support by lally columns. The reason I know this is when we built the house I paid a premium for a HUGE steel beam to complete the span without any colums (knowing I would be finishing the basement later)...My builder DID pour a concrete pylon into the basement floor in case the beam ever did sag..we could add a post without having to cut out concrete to pour a pylon. Well then, when I finished the basement we built a 2 x 6 wall the entire length of the steel beam, so we could hide the beam and it just worked out that way design-wise too.

I have attempted to attach a crude drawing.

Thanks so much,
Dan
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Old 04-05-2013, 12:36 PM   #7
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Removing an Interior Wall Question


no you don't.
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Old 04-05-2013, 03:22 PM   #8
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Removing an Interior Wall Question


ideally the upper load point should not be located away from the beam bearing point more than the thickness of the double itself(double 2x10) -so 9 1/4" away from beam bearing point-which is actually at least an 1 1/2" in onto steel girder for real load point . another thing to consider, you are putting(point load) an lvl supported post down onto spf lumber?? lock that double in and make sure it is nailed together sufficiently and you should be good to go
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Old 04-08-2013, 10:09 AM   #9
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Removing an Interior Wall Question


I was mistaken. The double-joist turned out to be double 12" LVLs so we went ahead with the remodel. Looks great! Thanks everyone!
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Old 04-08-2013, 11:07 AM   #10
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Removing an Interior Wall Question


Why pay premium for an extra strong steel beam and then build a wall directly beneath it? Just wondering...
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Old 04-08-2013, 11:20 AM   #11
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When we originally ordered the beam (10 years) ago...we did so thinking we would have just one big open space in the basement. When we started designing it, it just made sense to have one fairly big space..and also a small bedroom, crashpad, whatever you call it for when we have guests (and/or when my 11 years old decides he wants to live down there lol). So it just worked out with the design to hide that beam with a wall...
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Old 04-08-2013, 12:13 PM   #12
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Removing an Interior Wall Question


Understood. Also you never know, maybe down the road you'll want a larger open area for some reason - in which case you'll be able to remove the 2x6 wall and have it.
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