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HenryG 06-29-2009 01:36 PM

Removed Aluminum Siding, have a few questions.
After living in our 1920's era home for a few years, we decided to take down a few pieces of the aluminum siding to have a look. As I had figured the bottom cedar clapboard will need to be replaced, but overall the condition looks fantastic!

My question is about the vapor barrier. Before the previous owner had the aluminum installed there was tar paper on top of the cedar. I think this may have contributed to how well the cedar has been preserved. How important is it to add a vapor barrier under the existing clapboard? I've remodeled parts of the interior and there is no insulation, and no vapor barrier.

Is it possible to add this between the studs from the inside, or should the clapboard be removed? We plan on insulating between the studs when we remodel the rest of the house.

Living in the NW I would assume this is important for the house to have to fight against the moisture we have in this region.

Maintenance 6 06-29-2009 02:09 PM

A vapor retarder needs to be on the warm in winter side of the wall. In your case it needs to be as close as possible to the interior wall surface. It definitely should not be toward the exterior where cool air may condense moisture on the inside of it.

HenryG 06-29-2009 02:38 PM

So before I put up drywall I should have a vapor barrier installed after the insulation?

Thurman 06-29-2009 04:50 PM

HenryG, that is the purpose of the brown "Kraft paper" that is on one side of fiberglass insulation. It sounds as if you are going to be installing insulation, and if you use rolls or batts, they can be bought with the paper attached. If you are blowing insulation in, I'm not sure how the vapor barrier is applied. The paper side goes inward to the heated side of the home for a vapor barrier. Thanks, David

Maintenance 6 06-30-2009 06:10 AM


Originally Posted by HenryG (Post 294705)
So before I put up drywall I should have a vapor barrier installed after the insulation?

Yes. There are several ways you could insulate, but if you use fiberglass batts, you either use kraft faced with a treated paper retarder or unfaced and then staple 6 mil poly directly over the studs and and the batts. Do not do both. Only one vapor retarder.

HenryG 06-30-2009 02:51 PM

My post was probably confusing. :laughing:

I guess that is what I was wondering is if using the "paper" on the insulation is sufficient enough as a vapor barrier as long as I staple it to the studs before applying the drywall.

I just wasn't sure if in this climate (30 miles from the coast in the pacific northwest) I would need additional protection or not.

Thanks for all the help guys!

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