Regular Not-treated Lumber - Building & Construction - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum


Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Building & Construction

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 09-28-2012, 03:53 PM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Los Angeles County
Posts: 206
Rewards Points: 154
Default

Regular not-treated lumber


What are the chances that regular not treated lumber will have the damaging kinds of termites that can destroy wood structures over time?

I'm building something that is on a concrete structure 4 feet off of the ground. I'm using regular old lumber. I'm worried about termites as a pre-existing condition in lumber. Are my worries correct or unfounded?

Advertisement

jackwashere is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2012, 05:44 PM   #2
Member
 
GBrackins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Fairhaven, Massachusetts
Posts: 2,877
Rewards Points: 2,032
Default

Regular not-treated lumber


any wood in contact with concrete needs to be treated as concrete will wick moisture and can cause dry-rot in wood.

Advertisement

__________________
Gary

"You get what you pay for, and sometimes free costs more!"
GBrackins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2012, 06:15 PM   #3
Member
 
concretemasonry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Minneapolis/St. Paul, Minnesota - Latitude 45.057 Longitude -93.074
Posts: 3,824
Rewards Points: 2,136
Default

Regular not-treated lumber


The hyper mania about wood not being allowed is just foolish! - And it is simplistic "canned" observation spouted out.

Do you how many concrete structures have untreated wood walls and plates that have contact with the concrete. There, the only problem is the wood shrinkage as it dries out and not the fabled problem that really comes from the soil that supplies the moisture that may absorb moisture. Even a "wrinkled tin" steel stud can survive well. - Do you actually think someone would put a moisture barrier at every level?

If the concrete structure is 4' above ground, the biggest problem is with the moisture absorbed by the wood from the interior or exterior building envelope. Moisture does not travel very far once it is cured and the need for moisture is satisfied.

Also the concrete is not a home for termites like wood is.

At 4', I would suggest some PT at the bearing points or a moisture barrier and not worry about everything above unless it is termite food or subject to rotting from poor flashing and moisture control.

Dick
concretemasonry is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to concretemasonry For This Useful Post:
GBrackins (09-28-2012), woodworkbykirk (09-28-2012)
Old 09-28-2012, 06:29 PM   #4
Member
 
GBrackins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Fairhaven, Massachusetts
Posts: 2,877
Rewards Points: 2,032
Default

Regular not-treated lumber


concretemasonry,

you are absolutely correct, I went back and read the code section and since he is more than 8" above the adjacent grade it is not required to be treated ...... thanks for catching my error
__________________
Gary

"You get what you pay for, and sometimes free costs more!"
GBrackins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2012, 07:23 PM   #5
Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Los Angeles County
Posts: 206
Rewards Points: 154
Default

Regular not-treated lumber


Quote:
Originally Posted by concretemasonry View Post
I would suggest some PT at the bearing points or a moisture barrier and not worry about everything above
My inspector said he doesn't care much for PT or moisture barrier that high up on concrete but he would like to see the wood that comes into contact painted.

However the question I had was not about exposure of wood to concrete and moisture. The ranch is in the high desert and it is rather dry up there. I am concerned about bugs that may be in lumber from the get-go. If I go to a lumber yard what are the chances the wood I buy might have termites in it already?
jackwashere is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2012, 07:59 PM   #6
journeyman carpenter
 
woodworkbykirk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: nova scotia canada
Posts: 2,767
Rewards Points: 150
Default

Regular not-treated lumber


what drives me nuts is how were required to put plastic under bottom plates that are in contact with basement slabs in new construction yet their is plastic under the slab to keep moisture out.. the problem with the additional layer of plastic is that it will sweat which will then rot the wood.. no 2nd layer of plastic= no sweating= no rot
woodworkbykirk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2012, 08:26 PM   #7
Member
 
GBrackins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Fairhaven, Massachusetts
Posts: 2,877
Rewards Points: 2,032
Default

Regular not-treated lumber


wood,

see Figure 403.1(1) of the 2009 International Residential Code. There is a code requirement for a vapor barrier to be installed under a concrete slab with living space above. 6 mil polyethylene which is typically used is a class I vapor barrier.

http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...9_4_sec003.htm
__________________
Gary

"You get what you pay for, and sometimes free costs more!"
GBrackins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2012, 08:58 PM   #8
journeyman carpenter
 
woodworkbykirk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: nova scotia canada
Posts: 2,767
Rewards Points: 150
Default

Regular not-treated lumber


i know the code. i build and renovate high end customs. but theres always little flaws in the codes that can be argued
woodworkbykirk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-29-2012, 12:26 AM   #9
Too Short? Cut it Again!
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 9,634
Rewards Points: 2,000
Default

Regular not-treated lumber


If you buy your lumber from a reputable lumber yard there most certainly should not be an issue with insect eggs, disease spores or whatever in it to start off with!

If you think the structure is going to be prone to such things I would spray or dust it with one of the different forms of Boron/Borate for the purpose once done with your construction. I liked to use it when I had walls opened up for restoration.

Boracare is one brand. It is relative harmless unless consumed by pets and kids in large quantities. If allowed to run off in concentrated form it can render soil sterile for a long time. Good old fashioned roach powder is mainly borate and cheap if you just want to lay down dust. Diatamaceous (sp) Earth common in compounds form swimming pools is also a possibility for insects at least.

Not sure why your inspector is harping about painting the wood in contact with the concrete but maybe I am missing something so will defer to others for reasoning on that. And if that is what it is going to take to get an inspection sign off best to comply.

You could hit it with a nice, quality, acrylic solid color stain like Sherwin Williams Woodscapes or primer and than paint. You could also use something like Benjamin Moore's porch, floor and patio paint. The oil is urethane reinforced and the waterbased epoxy reinforced. They are self priming.

Advertisement

user1007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
6x6x18' pressure treated lumber josephyap1111 Building & Construction 3 02-03-2012 11:56 PM
Framing Treated Lumber Sbagwell647 Building & Construction 7 07-15-2011 12:04 AM
treated lumber first flight Carpentry 5 06-23-2011 06:50 PM
pressure treated lumber pkwagner Painting 5 05-01-2011 03:59 PM
pressure treated lumber - Painting Question slim one Painting 1 05-05-2009 07:35 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts