Reference To The Questions Concerning On How To Vent A Vaulted Ceiling. - Building & Construction - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

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Old 03-02-2011, 10:12 PM   #1
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reference to the questions concerning on how to vent a vaulted ceiling.

when venting a vaulted ceiling(2x 6's), which by the way is only a 3-12 pitch, is it okay to drill multiple half inch holes in the bridging blocks to allow air flow to rise through them to the main attic area?
any advice is greatly appreciated.


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Old 03-03-2011, 06:52 AM   #2
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I'd need a picture of what you are calling 'bridging blocks'---My guess would be 'yes'.


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Old 03-03-2011, 07:10 AM   #3
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If a home inspector saw holes in those bridging blocks (which I assume are perpendicular to the rafters and also made of 2x6s) NOT within the middle third of the 5.5-inch width and/or if he saw holes that were larger than about 1.5 inches in diameter, he'd know something wasn't done right. Again, if he did, he'd conclude something was done to compromise the integrity of the piece of wood and may report that.
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Old 03-03-2011, 09:31 AM   #4
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thanks for evryone's's another question to make it more clear.

my step father and mother live in a very old house. some years back......probably around 50 years addition was added to the house....that addition is now a laundry room, bathroom and kitchen........the perimeter of this addition is approximately 22' by 25'. there is one wall running parallel with the 25 foot long wall, which is about 8' from the 25' wall.
the ding dongs that ran the rafters only used single 2"x4"'s for rafters....didn't even double them up, except for short sections to make the 2 by 4's longer to cover the 22 foot span.....there are no joists....just these "rafters" of the walls they built have no top double band....etc..
on top of these 2x4'swas 3 layers of shingles, and underneath-sheetrock.
the pitch of the rafters are only on a 3-12 pitch...and ceiling heighth is 8 foot from the highest point to 6 foot to the lowest point.....there has been nothing but leak problems with the roof every since they bought the ad vice to them was to "suspend" all the sheetrock, tear out allthe crappy, moldy wood, ....add on top plates on the perimeter, square everything up and run everything on 16's ( before all rafters were 20 to 24 inches apart!)...for extra support- install a beam on the wall that runs 8 foot from the 25 foot wall (double 2x6's with a bonding board on both sides for the rafters to hit). there would be a 12 foot rafter(running from existing attic space bonded 1 foot onto existing rafter) and an 8 foot rafter (running from new beam to exterior wall).....then install bridging blocks at the halfway point of both runs to tie everything together for more support and to help balance the weight of the plywood and roofing materials.
all new electrical, stovehood and venting, bathroom fan and venting, all new lighting, and all new insulation.
now, we r at the point to where we are ready to put in the stepdad (who owns the house) says that befor we put in insulation, that we first need to allow venting throughout the new roof system wev'e installed.....which means leaving spce between the insulation and the plywood we will be installing. but for the hot air to travel through the bridging blocks we need to find a way to let that happen....there's a million bridging blocks and they r doing a good job of tying everything together....i don't want to compromise the integruty of the my suggestion was to drill about 5 half ich holes close to the top of each bridging block to allow air flow....WOULD THAT BE SUFFICIENT?
but my step father wants to , and he already did, he got a skill saw, set it on about an inch and a 1/4 deep, ran perpendicular lines all the way down every single brig.block and even did so on the beam that i installed inbetween the rafters, and then got his hammer and knocked out all the wood that the saw allowed for. WAS IT OKAY FOR HIM TO DO THAT?
or would my way have been better?
thank you
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