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Old 03-05-2009, 10:46 PM   #1
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Real stone veneer advice


I live on the top of a mountain and literally have tons of real stone I can use for covering the concrete cast basement walls (exterior). What do I need to do to prep the footer area and what can anyone suggest to use as a mortar to attach it to the wall. Also, what do I need to do for wall prep, the previous owner painted the concrete.

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Old 03-06-2009, 06:17 AM   #2
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The paint on your concrete is the problem. I would suggest nailing wire lathe to the concrete first. Now the stone can be set with cement. (Not mortar). Use a sand mix cement.

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Old 03-06-2009, 09:11 AM   #3
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This stone needs a ledge to rest on. You would also need some flashing on top so water doesn't get behind the stone. The flashing would go under your present siding material and over the top of the cap stone.
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Old 03-06-2009, 09:29 AM   #4
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Darn. I had to type all of that! Good points. Use steel angle to make your ledge. Use lead flashing you can buy at a masonry store for the flashing over the steel and over the top edge.
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Old 03-06-2009, 09:10 PM   #5
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I figured a ledge, how big considering the rocks I want to use at the bottom are rather large.( They vary form 1'x1'x3' to 1'x2'x2' some larger) Also, do I need to worry about what type of stone I am using. The rock indigenous to my yard seems very heavy,hard and nonporous. I live in the Shenandoah Mtns. of Virginia.
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Old 03-06-2009, 09:45 PM   #6
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thats not the kind of veneer stone that angle will hold up.Im no mason but i think stone that big and heavy would require its own footing
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Old 03-07-2009, 12:32 AM   #7
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First this project would absolutely require a footing for the stone. NOT a angle iron bolted to your foundation. Real stone as you describe would not be "attached" to the wall as you said. You would be building a wall in front of your existing basement wall. I might be wrong in saying this but from your post it seems like you might be getting in over your head. Stone work is generally not something a non pro can just do. If you are intent on trying it I could answer some questions for you.
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Old 03-07-2009, 05:40 AM   #8
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I would agree, this is not a stone veneer but a stone wall
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Old 03-07-2009, 05:41 AM   #9
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I agree with NJBRICKIE. Using natural stone requires An art, and a lot of skill for it to come out looking right., And yes you will need a footer for the stone your going to use. I do believe that Bob M was thinking you were using a stone veneer, or a much much smaller stone, that's why the angle iron came into play!. BOB.
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Old 03-07-2009, 06:10 AM   #10
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Yep... maybe because the title was "stone veneer".....
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Old 03-07-2009, 06:43 AM   #11
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i wanted to use field stones to go about 2' up around this place to the bottom of the siding, but the inspector said i'd have to put in a 42" deep foundation all the way around to hold "all that weight".... needless to say, i came up with other options.

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Old 03-07-2009, 03:03 PM   #12
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So here's the thing, not exactly an expert but I did put a new foundation under my sons bedroom. It included jacking up his room supporting it with screw jacks, digging out 42lf of foundation with depths varying from 32" to 72", building a stepped foundation, laying over 400 cinder blocks then setting the building back down onto the foundation. So not a novice but surely not an expert. I feel that it is a challenge but not beyond my capability. Why I called it a veneer is because the plan was to use the larger rocks at the bottom and gradually get smaller until the rocks at the top were the size of your hand maybe a bit bigger. The foundation depth requirements here are ~20" to get below frost line. What then would be the foundation requirements be? What other advice can anyone give? I have seen examples of this where the house appears to "grow" from the ground, very cool effect.
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Old 03-07-2009, 03:52 PM   #13
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Not following.. you already dug a new foundation? Or in another project you dug one, so you can do it again here? Things to consider.. foundation shelf for the stones need to be about 8-10" in your case. It needs to be at least 12" thick. You still need to damproof the foundation wall behind the stone work. You will need to tie the stones to the wall via mason ties anchored into the wall and set in the joints. Setting stones at an angle as you propose can be done (we do it all the time on the back side of larger walls) but it is much more difficult. The slope must remain constant. A line to determine how far out each stone must be set needs to be used every six inches. This is not just a skill it is an art. Pest bet, get the permits and be sure your foundation is inspected. Then hire a master mason to help you. Doing it without the tools and knowhow will assure a poor job. But then again,, maybe you can be on TV "What's with this house?" series.
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Old 03-07-2009, 04:20 PM   #14
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House is still standing!!!! I should note I worked construction years ago, and currently build custom furniture for a living. Now how to damp proof? UGL or other form of paint type sealer or tar or a plastic? I assumed a leaning angle of no more then 3" per 5' , I figured I would work that out as I laid out the rocks I had to work with. The trick is I live on the side of a mountain and my foundation exposure varies from 9' in the front to 1' in the back. Also my foundation is cast concrete (except where I had to lay the cinder block). Also, I would consider finding a master stone mason to help but I live in the vacuum of talent that is Northern Virginia, so help is either nonexistent or overtaxed/unbelievably busy due to that vacuum.

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Old 03-07-2009, 05:02 PM   #15
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Quote:
House is still standing!!!!
yes they are very forgiving that way. I have 15 stone masons working for me. When I set up a new job I need two trucks, 4 4'X 5' job boxes for the correct tools to be on the job. So do not figure it out as you go. Plan ahead and be sure of what you are doing each step. You cannot change your pitch once you start and the bottom needs to be in the right distance out. I would suggest to bring the stone ledge up to about 10 below grade. Start the stones here. Lay them level and add the next layer when the slope demands a change in height. draw out a look of how the stones should be set. These are not just random. Pick a style from a magazine. good luck.. this is hard work. Finding someone that can show you how to split a rock will help. Some of my guys just look at it, one shot and a perfect cut....

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