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Old 07-13-2012, 11:48 AM   #31
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Re-Studding Old Wall


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Kwikfishron I have never seen that ! When did they come out with those???? I always keep a little 12'' Stihl for cutting large glulams and such, but MOST of the time that is the only tool on the truck I ever need mixed gas for..You say they work great?? Not sure if it would make sense to spend the $150 for it just to not have a 1gallon container for mix.. but hey.. Not like I've never spent a bunch more then that on a tool I hardly use
I had a Prazi 20 years ago, there sweet. Cut stringers and rafters by the stack. Keep them sharp and they cut real clean. None of mine had that second bar off the back though.
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Old 07-13-2012, 11:51 AM   #32
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Here's the simple jig that I designed to attach to the chainsaw. $30 to build. I don't have access to a welder, so everything is fastened via 5/16" bolts.
Good luck with that. I think you're just spinning wheels with that project though.
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Old 07-13-2012, 11:53 AM   #33
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I'm not so sure as to why it is essential to trim 1'' of the 8x8 sill plate.. Seems like a waste of time to me. But it also seems you have your reasons for doing so. I understand it must have something to do with the first floor joist notch . I just can't figure out how if a 6x6 sill fit already..
The original sill plates are 7x8. In order to bring this corner back level with the rest of the house, I have to raise the walls 1.5". That means removing the 6x6 and installing the correctly sized 7x8.
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Old 07-13-2012, 11:57 AM   #34
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You know Pittsville you can just screw a 2x4 on either side of the 8x and use that for a guide.
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Old 07-13-2012, 12:26 PM   #35
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I understand about the height difference, I just don't understand the width difference.
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Old 07-13-2012, 12:32 PM   #36
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I understand about the height difference, I just don't understand the width difference.
The foundation is 8" wide. The original plates cover the entire surface of the foundation. I'm trying to recreate the original plates as close as possible.
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Old 07-13-2012, 12:46 PM   #37
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I can understand that as well.. But if what you are saying is true it doesn't make sense... If it was originally a 7x8 sill, the original joist would have to have been notched to fit that sill. Then you say someone must have replaced it with a 6x6. If that were the case then there would have been a 1 1/2'' gap with the original notch of the floor joist. That is only on the width side. If indeed there was a 2'' difference in 12' on the height side, my goodness that should be easy for anyone with one eyeball to see from the inside or outside. Now you're saying you will be lifting it 2'' to bring it back to level. I've seen some things in my day, but I just find it hard to believe any one with half a brain could have had an 8'' tall sill, and then replaced it with a 5 1/2'' sill, released their jack or whatever they had temporarily supporting the structure while the exchange was made, and then letting 12' of the structure fall down 2+ inches, high fives all around, and then calling it a day..
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Old 07-13-2012, 12:57 PM   #38
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The end of your post pretty much sums up the mentality of the previous homeowners and their renovations.

You are also correct about the floor joists being 1.5" away from the 6x6 sill. The very end of the joist (about 1/2") is what's resting on the plate. There is a good 1.5" gap of airspace between the sill and the "meat" of the joist. It's almost just a floating floor. The "piers" further back from the exterior wall are just piles of broken brick and other construction debris. The new floor will not be notched and hanging off of the sill plate. I'll be installing a ledger to the back side of the plate and then installing the joists with hangers.
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Old 07-13-2012, 01:08 PM   #39
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And I guess I'm just not there to see it.. That's why I was asking about the heights of the notches. It appears a smaller sill plate would be better. Just by the drawing that you made up in 3 D it appeared that it might be possible to install a standard 1 1/2 PT plate and have the new joist resting on it as it should be, and basically sistering the old to the new. And then the new 2x6 wall would continue up. Again, without knowing the exact measurements this would all be speculation. But if you aren't planning on installing new joist, then yes, the method you described would probably be best.
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