re: small metal shed foundation

gramps416

I'm going to buy an old cheap metal shed off of craigslist to store the standard lawn care items such as shovels lawn mower etc... Ideally I would like to build my own custom shed, but money is a little tight at the moment. I am also not sure how long I will be living at my current house.

and before I start assembling the metal shed which will probably be 6'x8', 8'x8' or 8'x10' (whatever I can find). I want to know what the opinions are on the ideal foundation for this type of shed. I live in ontario. so ice heaving is in the back of my mind.

I have been hearing alot of mixed opinions on the method of foundation to use.

A neighbor of mine just used 2"x6" cedar under the perimeter wall only. this sounds sketchy to me.

Alot of people around here build "skids". The thing is, I don't really know much about that type of construction

Another method I have been considering is using 3" thick concrete slab with 6" at the perimeter.

Another is using sonotube with poured footings, with a deck built on top, but I am thinking that could be overkill??

and finally, precast footings sitting on level groud with a deck built on top.

Advice on which method is best would be appreciated.
thanks for your time
-g

rjniles

4 X 6 PT skids

2 x 6 PT joist & rims

3/4" PT plywood

Treated screws for all fasteners


If it heaves in the frost, re-level in the spring. Has the advantage you can move it around the yard and take it with you when you move. If you decide to replace the metal shed with a wooden one, reuse this as the base.

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Location:
Coastal South Carolina

Tom Struble

i just built my metal shed on a level bed of 3/4''gravel,i put a 4x6 treated landscape timber buried about 2'' or so into the gravel,then pounded 2' pcs of 1/2'' rebar thru the lapped corners and every 3'or so,then filled to the top of the timber with more stone,its a good ''floor'' for what you want to use the shed for

what ever you decide to do the more level and square your foundation is the easier it will be to put the shed together and the longer it will last

tpolk

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The older I get the better I was

rusty baker

High winds tend to rack those metal sheds. I put mine on railroad ties. I then put eyehooks in the ties and ran airplane cable across the top. Mine has withstood 80 mph winds.

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"I'm twisted, not sick. Sick implies, I'll get better"
Semi-Retired Installer
Installing since 1973

gramps416

I think I will go with the solution with the joist, rims and plywood deck. The gravel method seems to be a good solution too.
thanks
-g

rjniles

I think you find the wood solution will keep your tools and machines in better shape. The gravel floor allows moisture to get into you equipment.

__________________
Location:
Coastal South Carolina

Tom Struble

actually is very dry ,but your right i would only use this for lawn equipt and tools such as rakes and shovels and such

gramps416

The only thing I don't understand is, if I built a platform with 2x6 pressure treated, and so on, how are the skids constructed? I don't see a how-to anywhere on how to build a skid, what it consists of and so on.

Please correct me if I am wrong. My plan is
to build the 2x6 frame with a platform, and a base underneath the 2x6 with along all outside edges using the 4x6 sunken in 2" below the ground, using the rebar, but if a platform is built on top, how will there be any airflow underneath?

How is a proper skid built? is gravel required, or optional?
-g[/quote]

mopowers

I'm also putting a shed in my yard. I was just going to pour a 3.5" thick slap with wire mesh over a layer of gravel and bolt the bottom plate of the shed to the slab. Is there anything wrong with this approach?

rjniles

Assuming that you have no frost issues, your plan is fine.

re: building on skids:

I would use 4 by 6 PT for the skids. Dig out the grass and top soil and fill back to grade with gravel or stone. I will assume the size is 8 by 10 but you can adjust if different. Lay 2 - 4 by 6s with the 6" side down, 12 " in from the edge of your gravel pad. There will be 6 feet between the skids. Makes sure the skids are level and level with each other. If you are sure you never will want to move the shed, drill thru the skids and drive 30" lengths of rebar into the earth (4 should be enough). Lay 8' 2 by 6 PT joist across the skids on 16" centers. Nail to the skids with hot dipped galvanized nails. Close the ends with 2 by 6 rim joists. Cover with PT plywood sheathing (I suggest 3/4").

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Location:
Coastal South Carolina

gramps416

I noticed, that pt plywood has gone up in price. $44 CDN a sheet where I live.

I was thinking of using pt 5/4" x 6" x 8' boards as my floor instead of the plywood decking. at $5.50 per piece, it is actually cheaper than the plywood. and sturdier!

I wanted to know if it is a good idea to use this because even though the PT will shirk a little, this will leave spaces between the boards, and I am concerned about moisture issues. I have some extra vapour barrier lying around, but I don't know if that would make matters worse.

So is the 5/4" x 6" x 8' deck with 1/8" spaces in between bad for moisture issues underneath the deck?

rjniles

The individual boards are fine. Put a sheet of plastic (vapor barrier) over the joists before you put the deck down. Butt the decking as tight as possible.

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Location:
Coastal South Carolina