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brad coe 12-21-2010 01:42 AM

Any Suggestions? re-siliconing windows in metal frames
2 Attachment(s)
hi there,
i have a home that has ALOT of glass. it is a concrete, glass and metal house with appx 5200 sq ft of glass. there's a 28' high wall that consists of 18 panels of dual pane panels and also part of the roof is pitched with appx 50 panels that opens onto a roof deck. all windows are stationary with exception of 3 crank outs and a sliding door on the roof.
Attachment 27870

Attachment 27871
my problem....:confused1:
the silicone is shrinking?, maybe...and when it rains, water is leaking in a few places. :boat:
all windows are framed with metal and set in steel framing to make a wall of glass. on the concrete walls, the slide windows are siliconed into the opening. there are only a couple butt glazed windows
i cant find where the water comes in at, but can see it running down the inside of the metal frames and concrete walls and dripping down 3 stories to the great rm below

what kind of silicone do i use to re-silicone them and how should i go about it? cut out silicone first? i know its a big job...(it looks like black caulk was used)
i have a lot of buckets out with homemade funnels/diverters catching the water leaks.:help:

i would appreciate any advise

jklingel 12-21-2010 02:55 AM

Holy Camoly! 5200 sf of windows? I think "...i know its a big job......" is the biggest understatement I've heard in a while, partner. I'd croak if I had to re-seal all that glass. I have done my dad's house several times when growing up, and it took weeks, and only "a bunch" of windows. You have a TON. I think you may well need a professional crew that has all the scaffolding, etc. If you are going to attack it, then you are a brave soul. Good luck. j

brad coe 01-04-2011 10:28 PM

what's a good silicone?
needed to redo the silicone on the windows....any suggestions for high grade, industrial stuff anybody? or should i just use roofing grade black...:huh:

stadry 01-05-2011 03:21 AM

very doubtful it was black caulk but its possible - if you've identified the mtl correctly, remove the sealant w/utility knife, wipe w/denatured alcohol & blk hand pad, then reseal - be sure to tool the mtl properly.

best mtl cost's buying in bulk containers & using bulk caulk gun - NOT HOMEOWNER CARTRIDGES ! ! ! don't even think about apron/vest stores - find a const supply house - either ge or dow/corning would be our choice.

silicone usually doesn't shrink - it just loses adhesion & that's probably the leak source,,, as i recall, the anticipated useful life of silicone in hgwy jnts was 8yrs - bldgs about the same,,, ALL dependent on the integrity & skill of the installers.

brad coe 01-05-2011 10:30 AM

thank you for the information...i will be checking into that and the bulk guns and caulk. the metal framing being blk and against the three score architecture block, you can tell it is blk.

thanks again

tpolk 01-05-2011 10:37 AM

please be careful easy to overstress a window or take a fall

brad coe 01-05-2011 10:53 AM

thanks for the heads up
i'm going to make a gig with stabilizers attached to a board that will go across the entire window, reaching across to the steel frames and not touching the glass.. if i'm not confortable once there then the pros will have to be called in... the guy that built this place (i think), was just "a little crazy"....but then again, we bought it :whistling2:.


tpolk 01-05-2011 10:59 AM

I'm partial to crazy in buildings

TomB 01-05-2011 06:47 PM

Wow, that's quite the window wall. I once worked with a crew replacing windows in similar setup (but not quite as big) and I can tell you it was a huge job. Good luck! :thumbsup:

Tom Struble 01-05-2011 11:21 PM

are you sure your dealing with silicone? are there any type of weep holes/slots in the bottom glazing bar?

most glazing systems have an internal drain or weep systems that shouldn't be caulked closed

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