Re-siding options

woodworkbykirk

i should have mentioned all the houses i side we replace all the windows and doors as well so the wall gets compltely stripped windows and doors removed foam goes on then the new windows go in the opening.. if the odd time we dont remove the old window we install new trim around that to build every thing out for the siding

Gary in WA

How thick of foam, what is closest city; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...nsulation/view

Strapping strength on foamboard, pp.8; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...ation-retrofit

Local AHJ for fire-code (strapping gaps liability); http://bct.eco.umass.edu/publication...n-the-outside/

Gary

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hand drive

how old is the house? Until you tear into a section of the wall you will not know for sure. there could possibly be no wall sheathing behind the current wood siding leaving you the option to insulate properly in the wall and then re sheath and then re side with siding of your choice. let us know after you find that out...

Mark Harvey

The house was built in 1974. It, basically, is a cottage but was built to code. The fellopw who recently bought it had a pre-sale inspection and it all sounds "proper". By this I am assuming (I know, I know) ... that the walls are insulated, probably to an R7, and the sheathing is OSB. I plan to check once I get the wood siding off and if need be, and the client agrees, I will re-insulate from the outside, re-apply the sheathing and do whatever we decide after that. (added foam, foil wrap, tyvek, etc.) As mentioned, all responses and ideas are welcome. My client is a young fellow who wants proper insulation and heat control but is also budget minded. I am trying to get him the best bang for the buck. Thanks.

cleveman

i have a couple of houses built around '70 with the black "R board" sheathing, probably plywood in the corners, sided with the press board lap siding.

I fully expected to find r-11 in the walls and I found r-7.5. I didn't know 7.5 existed.

So what to do?

Obviously, the sheathing comes off, and the 7.5 goes and 13 goes in, from the outside. Then I thought just use metal bracing on the walls, and re-sheath with 1" t & g xps.

I would also like to add some electrical boxes here and there from the exterior as I go, using old work boxes.

Then I'll side with vinyl through the xps and into the studs (2" nails).

I was reluctant to try this system and I still haven't done it, but I have sided a garage over the R-board since, and I feel better about nailing into the studs only now.

Gotta love an r-18 wall after the 7.5.