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-   -   Re-siding most of our house (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/re-siding-most-our-house-141213/)

Rewound98 04-23-2012 01:24 PM

Re-siding most of our house
 
We're re-siding most of our house. We may do most of the work ourselves or may contract it out.


Right now our 1981 house is sided with 1" cedar board and batten. Big 12" boards -- some of them are 18+ ft long.

As of now, we will be replacing it with cedar siding but likely 6" channel siding.

I haven't removed any sections to verify the current construction but I know there is styrofoam underneath the current siding.

I don't think there is any WRB. Shouldn't there at least be something?


We're also going to replace the soffit venting as the existing were painted over and aren't very effective.

Additionally we plan to address wind washing at the soffit venting with foamboard (no attic access -- it's all cathedral).


I'm looking for some tips and suggestions of what to look for to ensure we "make it right" (lol).

Rewound98 04-23-2012 01:40 PM

Ok, I'm answering a few of my own questions. I looked at a photo of us replacing some windows and we have Dow STYROFOAM™ TG which is a WRB. That's good.

Wow. Didn't realize XPS existed back in the 80s but that technology is 50 years old. That's awesome.

So I suppose after we take off all the old siding we'll need to ensure that's all intact replacing any sections as necessary and ensuring all seams are properly taped all around.

Tom Struble 04-23-2012 06:02 PM

foam ''can'' be a wrb, not necessarily is it in your case,wood siding should never be nailed directly over the foam,there needs to be an airspace between wood siding an foam

Rewound98 05-03-2012 09:32 PM

Here's some pictures. I took off a section to see what was really behind there.

This is right at the rim joist.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0...503_193907.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-A...503_194052.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-C...503_194341.jpg

Rewound98 05-03-2012 09:37 PM

So there is 3/4" TG XPS behind the cedar board and batten.

For some reason, there's a groove right where the subfloor is that has no XPS.

Great, I'm sure that allows an enormous amount of air to infiltrate the envelope.

Then, behind the XPS is fiberglass insulation definitely showing signs of air infiltration.


Does this make any sense that they put the cedar right on top of the XPS?

Seems like some serious work we'll have to correct it.

And, why is that groove right at the top of the rim joist where the subfloor is located?

Did the builders intend to do that?? Seems crazy to me.

For all I know there's several grooves like this as the XPS goes vertically up the wall.

GBrackins 05-03-2012 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rewound98 (Post 913952)
Does this make any sense that they put the cedar right on top of the XPS?

you need a drainage plane behind wood siding. this allows moisture to properly drain. if the back of the cedar siding is moist and the front exposed to the sun then you get wrapping as the front dries out faster than the back.

moisture from behind will shorten the life not only the siding, but any paint or stain that is applied.

there are rain screen products available, a plastic mesh that would be installed behind the siding. just google "rainscreen for wall" and you'll find all kinds of useful information.

Good luck with your project!

Rewound98 05-03-2012 10:20 PM

Ok. That makes sense.

That rainscreen will also barely affect the depth of the wall so that means I won't need extension jambs on windows.

The siding has been up for 31 years so it's had a good life.

The boards are severely cupped, splitting in half, and I suspect I'll see mold at some places.

If necessary I'll also repair as much of the XPS as I can stand and tape it well.

Would it make sense to put felt / typar / building wrap on top of the XPS instead of bothering to tape all of the existing seams?

GBrackins 05-03-2012 11:30 PM

Rewound,

I must be honest, we do not use rigid insulation on the exterior walls in my area so I'm not the best person to answer.

You do need to have a weather resistant barrier, but I do not know if the XPS you have installed would be considered one or not. Even if it is you'd need to tape the joints.

Sorry I could not be more help, good luck with your project!

Rewound98 05-03-2012 11:36 PM

Roger that. I appreciate your help.

Things are becoming clearer on what needs to happen.

Hopefully someone will chime in and continue to prod me in the right direction.

At least there are pictures, eh?

Tom Struble 05-04-2012 12:58 PM

a ''rainscreen'' is not a product,it's a detail

woodworkbykirk 05-04-2012 05:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Struble (Post 914312)
a ''rainscreen'' is not a product,it's a detail

really tom, i thought it was a lotion that comes in a bottle you rub on your skin before going outside on rainy days:whistling2:

honestly though, if your using type of wood siding you pretty much have to install a rain screen detail if you want it to last

kwikfishron 05-04-2012 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodworkbykirk (Post 914461)

honestly though, if your using type of wood siding you pretty much have to install a rain screen detail if you want it to last

Iím certainly not going to say a rain screen detail isnít good practice, in fact itís been code in Oregon for the last few years. But to say wood siding wonít last if you donít do it is a bit of a stretch. :wink:

GBrackins 05-04-2012 05:52 PM

l enjoy this forum

Tom Struble 05-04-2012 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodworkbykirk (Post 914461)
really tom, i thought it was a lotion that comes in a bottle you rub on your skin before going outside on rainy days:whistling2:

honestly though, if your using type of wood siding you pretty much have to install a rain screen detail if you want it to last


there are some that think it comes on a roll:whistling2:

p.s. i wasn't speaking about your post GBrackins

Gary in WA 05-05-2012 03:02 PM

http://www.diychatroom.com/f103/any-...siding-124716/

Gary


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