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Old 10-12-2008, 11:05 PM   #16
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range hood through the wall - - -stud in the way


I'm with Chris on this one... if you are going straight through the wall.. from the pic it looks like one stud in the middle.

The alternative is take the cabinet down ( probably 30") stud in the middle ..hmm 1' each side behind OTHER cabinets to reach studs if 16" OC.

tricky top cut on stud unless you have a Fein master tool ( 4 payments of $$$) PROPERLY REMOVE DRYWALL behind range and install double studs on each side to soul plate to support new header.. sandwiched 2x6 & 1/2 ply wood in center glued and nailed 4-6 in on centers staggered pattern.. placed above your through wall opening. Properly flash the exterior opening around the new vent (duct) with proper damper.... Now ..It really starts to get a little tricky...seal duct to back of range hood and insert through the wall...install range hood with one hand or with the mother of your future children...know that this team work effort may cause a strain on your newlywed relationship and effect the timing of future offspring...
OR
You could buy a Mcormmick spice rack ($27) and go through the cabinet and the roof.
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Old 10-12-2008, 11:16 PM   #17
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range hood through the wall - - -stud in the way


Or would it be possible to just offset the vent so that you go around the stud in the center? That would save your cabinet space and avoid 90% of the work I described in my other post.
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Old 10-13-2008, 12:07 AM   #18
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range hood through the wall - - -stud in the way


hmm. Duct outlet is probably dead center 3 X 10 at back of range hood..
I don't think offset is an option if cabinet installer hit the stud ( see pic) dead center...but he could have made a bad guess...???
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Old 10-13-2008, 09:03 AM   #19
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range hood through the wall - - -stud in the way


Take it one step at a time and just bear the wall and see what you have. My guess is that you won't have to take out the cabinets.
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Old 10-13-2008, 11:42 AM   #20
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range hood through the wall - - -stud in the way


That was my original thought, but it actually seems like it would be harder to offset through the cabinet, as would need two or three elbows every way I figured.

As for going through the roof, that really scares me.

I took down the old range hood (the recirculating one), holding it with one arm while unscrewing, and it was covered with grease so putting up the new one, should be better I would think, and hopefully a friend will be around to hold it.

So if I do put in a header do I just need to nail the trimmer studs to the king stud or to the base plate as well? (trying to figure how much drywall I need to remove.) Also do I need two trimmer studs for each side of the opening?

Lastly Bob I know too well from the past year how asking for a hand from my wife (then fiance) can affect our relationship , and luckily she still married me. I try now to always have enough pizza and beer on hand to help out when friends stop by to lend a hand. The beer helps also when she finds receipts for tools.

Thanks to all, I truly appreciate the advice.
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Old 10-13-2008, 11:45 AM   #21
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Bob is right, the stud is dead center.

I am pretty sure that I need to remove the cabinet, as the header needs to go where it is. Any ideas on making this smooth?

Thanks again to all.
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Old 10-13-2008, 03:01 PM   #22
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range hood through the wall - - -stud in the way


Quote:
Originally Posted by pacifier1er View Post
Bob is right, the stud is dead center.

I am pretty sure that I need to remove the cabinet, as the header needs to go where it is. Any ideas on making this smooth?

Thanks again to all.
Whats above the kitchen? attic or finished space?
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Old 10-13-2008, 03:41 PM   #23
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range hood through the wall - - -stud in the way


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Originally Posted by pacifier1er View Post
So if I do put in a header do I just need to nail the trimmer studs to the king stud or to the base plate as well? (trying to figure how much drywall I need to remove.) Also do I need two trimmer studs for each side of the opening?
You will need to nail the trimmer studs to the king stud as well as to the baseplate - so the drywall will need to be removed all the way to the floor. Typically, two trimmer studs are used on each side, but since you are only going to be removing one stud, you would probably be alright with just one on each side.
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Old 10-13-2008, 06:58 PM   #24
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range hood through the wall - - -stud in the way


Quote:
Originally Posted by pacifier1er View Post
Bob is right, the stud is dead center.

I am pretty sure that I need to remove the cabinet, as the header needs to go where it is. Any ideas on making this smooth?

Thanks again to all.
OK.. make this smooth... Cabinet removal

Pull the gas range and disconnect...you will need the room to work.

1. empty cabinet...do not empty the spirits in a glass until you have completed the project.
2. Locate screws and double check that you have the correct good bit for your cordless drill. check the screws in the cabinets next to the over range upper they will need to stay up when you remove the cabinet. A good cabinet installer would have screwed the cabinets together through the hardwood face...this keeps the butt joint at the face smooth and flush. ... #2 roberts head or square head cabinet screws are often used there. ( remove these first and save for reinstall)

If you don't have a third hand ...screw some 1 X to the back wall to help support the cab when you remove the last screw (cabinet to wall). start removing screws at the bottom.

Be sure you measure and can ID the location for the duct on something other than the drywall you are about to remove.

Study the romex and plan for this to pass through your new header if it feeds from above. (Kill the power when you do this). Tape a long cord on the end to feed through your new drywall or have fun fishing...

Lots of good posts on how to: the header and legs.

Let us know if you need more info. Stay safe
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Old 10-13-2008, 09:51 PM   #25
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range hood through the wall - - -stud in the way


Thanks, it all seems pretty clear. I will tell you how it goes next weekend.
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Old 11-03-2008, 11:13 AM   #26
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range hood through the wall - - -stud in the way


So after having to take a few weeks away from the kitchen to visit parents, etc. I took the drywall and insulation out.

I cut my header and my jack studs, but wasn't sure what to do about the diagonal bracing. I can't fit in the jack studs with the diagonal there.

Can I cut that piece out if I am putting the header and a sill in? I figure that would be enough bracing, but I wasn't sure 100%. There are a couple cabinets to the right where the diagonal comes from, so is it helping support those?

My buddy is taking me to the game tonight (Monday night football!!!) for my birthday, but I need to get the drywall back up tomorrow night, as I don't think the wife is too happy about the state of "her kitchen".

Please tell me if I can cut the bracing out, and if there is anything I need to look for before I do. Thanks as always.
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Old 11-03-2008, 07:14 PM   #27
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range hood through the wall - - -stud in the way


Happy Birthday.

Cut the piece out.

Watch out for flying wood chips.
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Old 03-04-2009, 08:33 PM   #28
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range hood through the wall - - -stud in the way


I've been pondering this same problem at my house. My conclusion? Rather than tear out and replace drywall, etc, I'm going to cut the stud. The house is sheathed in plywood, and this outer wall is supported by that plywood more than the studs - particularly in my one-story ranch. In this situation, cutting a stud poses no threat to the integrity of my home. If I feel like it when I actually get around to doing the work, I might take a 3.25" piece of 1' diameter steel pipe, and wedge it inside the ductwork between the two ends of the 2x4. Even with the pipe/brace, I'm sure an inspector would holler about my work. Oh, well.
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Old 08-31-2011, 08:53 PM   #29
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range hood through the wall - - -stud in the way


Good thread. It has been very informative. I had just about decided to remove the cabinets, and cut out the drywall (that has been recently installed) and add in the header and sill.

However after reviewing what is required to build the header:
3/8 - 1/2 inch plywood sandwiched by 2 2x6 secured between the remaining studs on either side of the cut one.

This is not an option for me. To the right of the stud I need to cut are just about every wire in the house on it's way out of the breaker box just below the plate at the bottom of the wall in question.

Initially I had planned on running my duct just to the right of the stud immediately between the the stud and all of that wiring. However, I cannot get the elbow configured in such a way that it will go straight out the side of the house.

I realize this thread is a bit old, nut there was a lot of great discussion on it, and any new ideas will be much appreciated.

Here are links to my project thus far:
The CAD drawings from my planing phase
The kitchen finished to date
The Wall (and wiring) before we finished it.

P.S. pacifier1er - I hope your project came out a success!
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Old 05-21-2013, 08:55 AM   #30
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range hood through the wall - - -stud in the way


There was a recent view of the photo's I posted so I thought I'd make a new update.

I was able to twist the rings in the elbow just enough to get around the stud.
In addition for a secure mount for the hood bracket, I inserted a stud sideways with a lateral piece to tie into the existing stud.
Done!

Now two years later....
We've finally gotten around to adding a backsplash. And ironically found that the sheetrock seem that landed on this same stud was approximately 1/8" recessed from the others. In effect causing the tile to dip in toward the wall. I had to pull sheetrock again, shim it out, and will soon be finishing the tile job too.

Hope that helps somebody.
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