Range hood install questions

drtbk4ever · 10-06-2009, 12:50 PM

Hey Gang,

Here is the range hood we are installing. We are looking forward to getting this bad boy installed. To that end I completed the ducting yesterday.

I wrapped the 6 inch duct with pipe insulation for the section that is in the attic.

Do I nned to install insulation around the pipe for the small section that extends from the ceiling to the fan blower ? This part of the duct will be behind the stainless steel housing.

The install instructions say to only install 4 screws at the top of the blower to attach it to the wall. Page 6 of Installation Instruction pdf found in attached link. Actually the illustration shows only two screws, but there is room for 4 on the mounting bracket. That seems kind of flimsy to me. Actually seems no where near enough, but what do I know.

http://www.jenn-air.ca/en/ProductWar...XT8030ADS.html

Would you guys add another couple of screws lower down on the fan housing if you could? There are some holes there I can utilize.

And yes I have a wire run to my high effeciency furnace to install an interlock so that the furnace fan comes on when the range hood is on. This is to ensure there is fresh air being sucked in by the furnace.

WaldenL · 10-06-2009, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drtbk4ever

And yes I have a wire run to my high effeciency furnace to install an interlock so that the furnace fan comes on when the range hood is on. This is to ensure there is fresh air being sucked in by the furnace.

Wow! I never would have thought about that. Was that in the instructions?

drtbk4ever · 10-06-2009, 03:18 PM

No, it was an electrician who suggested it. The instructions are crap.

This range vent is a 600 cfm, so a negative pressure situation is a possibility when the hood is turned on.

drtbk4ever · 10-08-2009, 10:41 AM

Anybody have some input??

**Gary in WA** · 10-08-2009, 01:38 PM

I'm not HVAC, though I've installed a few. Any ducting in the attic needs to be insulated and a vapor barrier to keep the moisture/grease from condensing inside the duct.
The insulation shall be made of inorganic glass fibers, semi-rigid for duct work and suitable for temperatures up to 450 degrees F. Insulation shall have a density of three (3) pounds per cubic foot and a thickness of 1 inch. Insulation shall include a factory applied vapor barrier.
Recommended: Owens/Corning Fiberglass, type 703 with FRK-25 factory applied foil reinforced draft facing or equal. Use 3 screws minimum, per code and wrap with foil duct tape, and possibly duct setting compound. All crimped ends pointing towards exhaust. You should have a back-draft damper. If you have a homeowner’s association or townhouse, check for additional laws.

Combustion appliances warning
Bathroom fans, kitchen fans, clothes
dryers, and wood, gas, oil, and propane
combustion appliances remove household
air when operating. Sometimes removing
air from the home can create negative
pressure resulting in back-drafts. The use
or increased use of exhaust fans can, at
times, draw combustion gases such as
carbon monoxide (CO) into the home from
the combustion equipment. Safety officials
recommend installing a CO detector in
homes with combustion appliances. If a
recurring presence of CO is detected in the
home, immediate action should be taken to
locate the source and correct the cause.
Back-drafting can be diagnosed and
corrected by some experienced heating
contractors and safety specialists

Be safe, Gary

drtbk4ever · 10-08-2009, 03:25 PM

Gary, the venting is 6" round metal ducting. The ducting in the attic has all joints taped with foil tape and wrapped insulation with a vapor barrier on it. Where the vapor barrier was open I then also wrapped in the foil tape. I am sure it isn't up to the standard of the 703 stuff you mentioned, but is all I could find.

The only cumbustion apparatuses we have in the house we have to worry about is the hot water tank and the fireplace. The furnace is a high effeciency model.

Regardless, I like the idea of a carbon monoxide detectors.

I may insulate (without vapor barrier) the inside vent pipe if I find it too noisy.

Knucklez · 10-09-2009, 10:00 AM

GBR, is there anything you don't know? ha!

10-06-2009, 12:50 PM	#1
drtbk4ever Newbie Bill Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Alberta, Canada Posts: 1,033	Range hood install questions Hey Gang, Here is the range hood we are installing. We are looking forward to getting this bad boy installed. To that end I completed the ducting yesterday. I wrapped the 6 inch duct with pipe insulation for the section that is in the attic. Do I nned to install insulation around the pipe for the small section that extends from the ceiling to the fan blower ? This part of the duct will be behind the stainless steel housing. The install instructions say to only install 4 screws at the top of the blower to attach it to the wall. Page 6 of Installation Instruction pdf found in attached link. Actually the illustration shows only two screws, but there is room for 4 on the mounting bracket. That seems kind of flimsy to me. Actually seems no where near enough, but what do I know. http://www.jenn-air.ca/en/ProductWar...XT8030ADS.html Would you guys add another couple of screws lower down on the fan housing if you could? There are some holes there I can utilize. And yes I have a wire run to my high effeciency furnace to install an interlock so that the furnace fan comes on when the range hood is on. This is to ensure there is fresh air being sucked in by the furnace. Attached Images __________________ Bill A DIY Noob that knows just enough to be dangerous. Last edited by drtbk4ever; 10-06-2009 at 12:53 PM.

10-06-2009, 03:18 PM	#3
drtbk4ever Newbie Bill Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Alberta, Canada Posts: 1,033	Range hood install questions No, it was an electrician who suggested it. The instructions are crap. This range vent is a 600 cfm, so a negative pressure situation is a possibility when the hood is turned on. __________________ Bill A DIY Noob that knows just enough to be dangerous.

10-08-2009, 10:41 AM	#4
drtbk4ever Newbie Bill Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Alberta, Canada Posts: 1,033	Range hood install questions Anybody have some input?? __________________ Bill A DIY Noob that knows just enough to be dangerous.

10-08-2009, 01:38 PM	#5
Gary in WA Moderator Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 8,851	Range hood install questions I'm not HVAC, though I've installed a few. Any ducting in the attic needs to be insulated and a vapor barrier to keep the moisture/grease from condensing inside the duct. The insulation shall be made of inorganic glass fibers, semi-rigid for duct work and suitable for temperatures up to 450 degrees F. Insulation shall have a density of three (3) pounds per cubic foot and a thickness of 1 inch. Insulation shall include a factory applied vapor barrier. Recommended: Owens/Corning Fiberglass, type 703 with FRK-25 factory applied foil reinforced draft facing or equal. Use 3 screws minimum, per code and wrap with foil duct tape, and possibly duct setting compound. All crimped ends pointing towards exhaust. You should have a back-draft damper. If you have a homeowner’s association or townhouse, check for additional laws. Combustion appliances warning Bathroom fans, kitchen fans, clothes dryers, and wood, gas, oil, and propane combustion appliances remove household air when operating. Sometimes removing air from the home can create negative pressure resulting in back-drafts. The use or increased use of exhaust fans can, at times, draw combustion gases such as carbon monoxide (CO) into the home from the combustion equipment. Safety officials recommend installing a CO detector in homes with combustion appliances. If a recurring presence of CO is detected in the home, immediate action should be taken to locate the source and correct the cause. Back-drafting can be diagnosed and corrected by some experienced heating contractors and safety specialists Be safe, Gary __________________ Clothes taking longer to dry? Clean the dryer screen in HOT water if using fabric softener sheets. They leave a residue that impedes air-flow, costing you money. Clean the ducting in the last six months? 17,000 dryer fires annually!

10-08-2009, 03:25 PM	#6
drtbk4ever Newbie Bill Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Alberta, Canada Posts: 1,033	Range hood install questions Gary, the venting is 6" round metal ducting. The ducting in the attic has all joints taped with foil tape and wrapped insulation with a vapor barrier on it. Where the vapor barrier was open I then also wrapped in the foil tape. I am sure it isn't up to the standard of the 703 stuff you mentioned, but is all I could find. The only cumbustion apparatuses we have in the house we have to worry about is the hot water tank and the fireplace. The furnace is a high effeciency model. Regardless, I like the idea of a carbon monoxide detectors. I may insulate (without vapor barrier) the inside vent pipe if I find it too noisy. __________________ Bill A DIY Noob that knows just enough to be dangerous.

Range hood install questions