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Old 02-21-2011, 01:33 PM   #16
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Raise the ROOF!


I agree that I would probably raise it at the slab, but before that, depending how new your shingles are, you may want to look at removing the roof, and installing scissor trusses. They would not give you the extra height throughout, but may give you enough where you need it.

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Old 02-21-2011, 10:37 PM   #17
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Please get a permit for your intended work, to be safe. Adding a short stud wall on top of the existing walls may not work due to the hinge effect it would cause for shear flow. Adding a concrete wall below would work, though require new footings for the weight. Either way requires a Structural Engineer to take the liability issue away from you. Keep a "paper trail" of it all in case of a future insurance claim to prove the work was up to Code and inspected.

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Old 02-22-2011, 08:00 PM   #18
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To cover a few comments...

If the garage was a free standing structure, I would probably jack the whole thing up and re-do all the concrete. Not just add walls, but re-do the floor and add drainage and all that jazz. But because of cost and code reasons it would be a nightmare, not to mention that I have a large deck that wraps around all the way around the back and all my windows would be to high. Oh, and I would need to get an electrician to extend the main power line feeding into the garage.

Just adding a larger door would not do, since my door is tucked up to the joists and even the joists are too low. Raising the whole roof assembly off the walls seems like my only option.

As for bracing and stabilizing the roof while being lifted, The use of pipe sliders would be used on both sides of all walls as well as support beams.
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Old 02-22-2011, 09:47 PM   #19
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Dig out the floor?
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Old 02-22-2011, 10:03 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Lazy_Jake View Post

Just adding a larger door would not do, since my door is tucked up to the joists and even the joists are too low.
You remove the ceiling joists and raise them to a specific height designed by an architect or engineer so that they are acting as rafter ties that would prevent the walls from spreading. This is always done when you don't use a structural ridge beam.Once you raise the joists you can use a higher door and your finished ceiling would be higher
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Old 02-23-2011, 12:50 AM   #21
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Ayuh,... Lotsa Maineiacs in this thread,... I'm originally from Old Town, 'n still have a place in Clifton...
Old Town, eh? Me to, sorta. Actually Alton, but went to Old Town schools from Jr. High on. (only grades 1-6 in Alton)
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Old 02-23-2011, 08:42 AM   #22
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Old Town, eh? Me to, sorta. Actually Alton, but went to Old Town schools from Jr. High on. (only grades 1-6 in Alton)
Ayuh,... I did K thru 8th at Milford, then Old Town for High School...

Class of 73....

Used to do some heavy partyin' in Alton...
A fella a couple years older than myself, named Shirley, had a Big ole Barn...
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Old 02-23-2011, 09:49 AM   #23
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rather than building short walls to sit on top of the existing walls, have you considered taking your top plate off of the existing walls when you raise the roof and then sister in full height 2x6 to your new wall height?? this will make your walls uniformly the same thickness for increased insulation , make the wall rigid from floor to ceiling...

just thinking out loud

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Old 02-23-2011, 10:43 AM   #24
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rather than building short walls to sit on top of the existing walls, have you considered taking your top plate off of the existing walls when you raise the roof and then sister in full height 2x6 to your new wall height?? this will make your walls uniformly the same thickness for increased insulation , make the wall rigid from floor to ceiling...

just thinking out loud

rod
thats the ticket, then fill space to existing top plate for structural integrity on bearing
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Old 02-23-2011, 11:16 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Joe Carola View Post
You remove the ceiling joists and raise them to a specific height designed by an architect or engineer so that they are acting as rafter ties that would prevent the walls from spreading. This is always done when you don't use a structural ridge beam.Once you raise the joists you can use a higher door and your finished ceiling would be higher
And install a low headroom track
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Old 02-23-2011, 11:29 AM   #26
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How many of you giving suggestions have actually done what you are proposing?

Ever separated a rafter from a top plate with the sheathing in place?
Ever had to deal with the wiring when you separate?
Ever had to crib your jacks up to the collar ties so the thing isn't too top heavy?



I'm still going with my original (experienced ) idea.
The garage walls already look too close to grade.
Raising the entire structure will cure that problem real quick and give a much nicer look to the building.
I know you have a deck & windows to consider.......but

Be safe and think it through.....
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Old 02-23-2011, 01:49 PM   #27
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Ayuh,... Agreed,... Much easier, Much safer, 'n a Better product when done...
Agreed, perhaps do it by adding in several courses of block...

Now you have a nice solid lower wall structure, less potential for insects, and if you parge it or use a decorative block you don't even need to worry about matching up to the existing siding.

Any existing windows can either be extended downward to much taller, or leave them as-is and provide better security by being an extra 3-4' off the ground level.
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Old 02-24-2011, 01:20 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bondo View Post
Ayuh,... I did K thru 8th at Milford, then Old Town for High School...

Class of 73....

Used to do some heavy partyin' in Alton...
A fella a couple years older than myself, named Shirley, had a Big ole Barn...
Was it a big Quonset hut type building?
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Old 02-24-2011, 09:52 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcleve4911 View Post
How many of you giving suggestions have actually done what you are proposing?

Ever separated a rafter from a top plate with the sheathing in place?
Ever had to deal with the wiring when you separate?
Ever had to crib your jacks up to the collar ties so the thing isn't too top heavy?

I'm still going with my original (experienced ) idea.
The garage walls already look too close to grade.
Raising the entire structure will cure that problem real quick and give a much nicer look to the building.
I know you have a deck & windows to consider.......but

Be safe and think it through.....
I don't think anyone is disagreeing with you, but the OP seems determined to follow his plan... he has also described why he cannot raise the entire structure.

I think a lot of ideas have come out of the discussion and hopefully he will be safe and post pics of the project during and after.

rod
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Old 02-24-2011, 10:44 AM   #30
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Agreed ....we'll wait to see what he does
It's winter right now so I bet it'll be a while.........

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