question of wall framing

feralfreak

i have a question on wall framing, for exterior and interior walls, and its on what is the best way to do this if i would be doing all the building myself, (please see pic)

as you can see i have 2 examples, which is better? or does it matter? would the top one be allowed by code?

Scuba_Dave

No reason for the extra stud on the top
Since you need 16" OC & 8' on centers for drywall etc bottom is the best way to go
Extra studs also transmit more cold from the outside
So better to have insulation instead of the stud

feralfreak

thanks

Scuba_Dave

I also go to 2x6 exterior walls & use R19 or R21 insulation

Clutchcargo

It probabaly doesn't matter but yYou may want to offset the top and bottom plate breaks.

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feralfreak

for framing rough opening doorways, would using a 2x6 work with cripples over the header? im guessing a header would be 2x, 1/2" plywood, 2x, 1/2, 2x, would that be right?

Scuba_Dave

For headers I use triple headers & rigid insulation as the "middle" piece
Basically (2) 2x headers on the outside, then rigid foam, then the 3rd 2x on the inside

2x6 = 5 1/2"

(3) 2x's = (3) *1.5 + 1" rigid...or 1/2" sheathing & 1/2" rigid

feralfreak

can headers and cripples be used together?

kwikfishron

Very simple, Pic. # 2 "IS CORRECT".
Although I wouldn't line up the top and bottom plates.

jlhaslip

place your header to the outside and insulation to the inside so the inspector can see it.

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Scuba_Dave

Problem with that is screwing in drywall with 1" rigid on the inside
And anything else you might nail...trim might be a problem too
With 1 header on the inside you have something to screw/nail into

jlhaslip

Make the header sit 1 1/2 inch higher and infill the top with an upper 'sill' piece on the flat. Do it all the time around here for doors and windows.

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feralfreak

that pic answered my last question perfectly

Gary in WA

"what is the best way to do this if i would be doing all the building myself," ------- I would use my wall jacks to raise the wall one piece. If not, either example is per code but #1 is easier and way quicker when working alone with a longer wall, pieced together. (Especially on a step ladder trying to line and nail a 12' high wall through the lower top plate, then add the upper plate, 4' minimum lap each way--- as in #2. In detail #2-- just subtract the required overhang top plate from the abutting wall, plus 1/4"- elbow room, hold the stud shy of the end at one wall- then when butting the two end studs the top plates tighten before the top ends of the studs, no toenails or forcing the joint tight). The top and bottom plate break placement are not important unless fasteners are missing, or too close to a partition or corner. The double top must now be offset from the break below it by 24", per code. Around here, the cripples are the short studs between the header and the 1st top plate, OR the short studs between the window sill and the bottom plate. As Jl said, place your header out-most with the header stamp readable from the inside (not covered by sheathing) for the inspector, later install the rigid insulation.
"For framing rough opening doorways, would using a 2x6 work with cripples over the header? im guessing a header would be 2x, 1/2" plywood, 2x, 1/2, 2x, would that be right?" ------- The header is rated for the opening as to loads it carries. Example of exterior wall: http://www.burlington.org/Building08/Spans.pdf Interior: http://ftp.resource.org/bsc.ca.gov/t...2_page0376.pdf The plywood is only a filler. Check with your local Building Department for current framing codes. Example of older codes: http://www.mcvicker.com/resguide/page011.htm

Be safe, Gary

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feralfreak

i see you have something about dryers in your signature, we had a situation of that when i was still in highschool, dryer fire was (at that time) the scariest thing i saw