Hi Everyone: My deck is 12' x 25'. The 25' side being connected to the house.
It is built on 16" joists, and the deck covering is 2 x 6, with a wood railing. All wood is fir or hemlock. The joists are 2 x 8's.
The far side beam is 3 sandwiched 2 x 10" with 3 posts, one at each end and one a bit off center at 12'.
The beam is effectively in 2 pieces, and a butt joint on the middle post.
The posts are supported on cement columns.
One end post and the center post are showing rot, as well as the beam where it contacts the posts.
The joists protrude past the beam by about 5" with an end cap 2 x 10.
I do not see any rot on the joists.
My main concern is how best to support it while I replace the beam and posts, and how best to cut the toe-nailing from the joists.
Re: temporary beam: I had thought I would use 2 - 2x4's(real dimension) just past the beam and maybe a small overlap on the end cap 2 x 10.
Probably about 8 - 10 feet in length with 4 temporary posts. I also thought about using the same 2 - 2 x 4's for the posts.
If I remove all the weight from the deck, will that be strong enough??
My other option for the posts is to pick up some used teleposts or jacking posts.
I can rent them, but as I work slowly, the rental might run to $200.
Where the posts are rotted, the post and beam has been compressed about an inch.
I estimate I would need about an inch working space above normal height to replace the bean.
Is that adequate??
When I am jacking up the deck will I need to do it all at once, or can I jack at each post a little at a time, say no more than one inch at a time?
I am also not sure of the best way to remove the toe-nailing from the joists to the beam.
I could try to cut the nails with a reciprocating saw, but I suspect I would inevitably damage the underside of the joists in the process.
I also thought about cutting the old beam up while still in place, that seems like too much work.
My best idea(to me) is to cut a "V" under the joists in the beam and then remove the leftovers once the beam is removed.
Any thoughts or ideas appreciated.
dougq
It is built on 16" joists, and the deck covering is 2 x 6, with a wood railing. All wood is fir or hemlock. The joists are 2 x 8's.
The far side beam is 3 sandwiched 2 x 10" with 3 posts, one at each end and one a bit off center at 12'.
The beam is effectively in 2 pieces, and a butt joint on the middle post.
The posts are supported on cement columns.
One end post and the center post are showing rot, as well as the beam where it contacts the posts.
The joists protrude past the beam by about 5" with an end cap 2 x 10.
I do not see any rot on the joists.
My main concern is how best to support it while I replace the beam and posts, and how best to cut the toe-nailing from the joists.
Re: temporary beam: I had thought I would use 2 - 2x4's(real dimension) just past the beam and maybe a small overlap on the end cap 2 x 10.
Probably about 8 - 10 feet in length with 4 temporary posts. I also thought about using the same 2 - 2 x 4's for the posts.
If I remove all the weight from the deck, will that be strong enough??
My other option for the posts is to pick up some used teleposts or jacking posts.
I can rent them, but as I work slowly, the rental might run to $200.
Where the posts are rotted, the post and beam has been compressed about an inch.
I estimate I would need about an inch working space above normal height to replace the bean.
Is that adequate??
When I am jacking up the deck will I need to do it all at once, or can I jack at each post a little at a time, say no more than one inch at a time?
I am also not sure of the best way to remove the toe-nailing from the joists to the beam.
I could try to cut the nails with a reciprocating saw, but I suspect I would inevitably damage the underside of the joists in the process.
I also thought about cutting the old beam up while still in place, that seems like too much work.
My best idea(to me) is to cut a "V" under the joists in the beam and then remove the leftovers once the beam is removed.
Any thoughts or ideas appreciated.
dougq