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Old 10-02-2012, 07:12 PM   #46
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Putting in header in wall!


This is like the tooth pick bridges my kids used to make back in High School. Big city wide contest. They'd take um to engineers who had some kind of machine that applied pressure and measured how much it took to destroys them Amazing! Some of them took hundreds of pounds per square inch. Then one tooth pick cracked and whole thing literally exploded.

That's how your house is now,lots of barely secured parts holding each other together.

The person who built that addition obviously did not pull a permit. And look at mess of it they made. You might wanta contact local govt. and see if any permits were ever pulled. That will not alert them that anything is awry.

One more question, which way do joists run under that wall?

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Old 10-02-2012, 07:26 PM   #47
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Looking at what is there the joists are probably 1x4's - LOl Jokes
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:40 PM   #48
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"1x4's" laid on their sides.

Probably the original house is OK, its that addition that screwed things up.

i don't wanna scare fed anymore than we already have, but i wonder what size wall studs are under that addition.
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:54 PM   #49
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haha yea. i am not sure which way joists run actually. i believe studs are 2x4 throughout
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:55 PM   #50
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so a new question then-where do i find a good sturcutal engineer and how much is it? 400?
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Old 10-02-2012, 08:30 PM   #51
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Yellow pages. Cost? No idea. See if this helps
https://netforum.acec.org/EWEB/Dynam...7-cb13f2823557
You might want to first contact a General Contractor and hire him strictly as a consultant, just to take quck look around. Making it clear you do not want to hire him/her to do work, he/she can see things we can't.
My main concern is lack of support from below. Second is beeezarrr rafter situation. Are the rafters in addition proper size, installed correctly, properly tied to old ones at ridge? If they are, why were those other ones cut off where they were? They could have been taken out much higher. Judging by that situation makes me suspicious of all work done on addition.
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:12 PM   #52
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I haven't read every thing here--so this may already be discussed----

That old roof structure may not be supporting anything more than the ceiling in the old section.

The shed dormer is attached to the ridge ---if built properly--the old roof rafters on that side of the house are no longer structure---Just old vestiges of the former roof.

Remove some insulation in the room with the useless roof rafters---take a picture----
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Old 10-03-2012, 09:06 AM   #53
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Mike, it was discussed but not answered. Look right above your post for my thoughts, and why vestiges ending where they do worries me. Could have got a higher ceiling if they'd been cut off higher.
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:02 AM   #54
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It totally depends how the new roof ties in at the ridge.
Those studs screwed into the sides of the rafters may have been a former knee wall of sorts, which were not load bearing.
But once the rafter was cut off below them they may have become load bearing to a degree, or maybe not.
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Old 10-03-2012, 11:37 AM   #55
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This is full of " maybe nots" including need for engineer.
Fed you need to get somebody with professional knowledge and experience to at least take quick look around, B4 spending big bucks on it. Depending on what's below you may get by with just repositioning opening. Again, maybe..maybe not.
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:18 PM   #56
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this is one case where I think an engineer is needed. I guess a good carpenter could look at it and tell you to get an engineer.
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:26 PM   #57
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" a good carpenter could look at it and tell you to get an engineer." That's basically what I mean, somebody on site to verify our long distance diagnosis from photos and limited info. A "good carpenter" to walk in, look at it, run out immediately and shout from across street, "Get an engineer!"

Fed, a local contracter, builder, carpenter, may have info on qualified local engineer.
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Old 10-03-2012, 06:02 PM   #58
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Can be hard to find a good anything in the yellow pages much less a carpenter or engineer. Probably worth caking a few contractors out to look, making it clear you just want an advisor on the phone but offering to compensate them. If things work out they may be able to recommend an engineer. If you're really lucky the contractor may be able to do the work and comp you for the consult.
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:20 PM   #59
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thanks so much gents! been at work all day sorry. let me see if i can back out a little and show you guys the rest
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:46 PM   #60
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You need pp. 47, A or B; http://books.google.com/books?id=iwS...joists&f=false

Pull some foam and see, as said already. Then hire a S.E.

Gary

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