Proper way to install chimney pipe in metal building roof

jonblack

Hello

I have a metal building that I would like to install a wood burning fireplace in. The metal roof panels are from Mueller and they are the R profile. They can be seen: http://www.muellerinc.com/building/rpanel.php

I have the underside, which would be the ceiling covered with Mueller's U panels, which can be seen here: http://www.muellerinc.com/building/upanel.php

The wood burning stove I have requires a 8" ID stove pipe. My ceiling height at the point of exit through the roof is about 21 feet. I am very reluctant to penetrate the ceiling and roof panels, as I am afraid of not being able to seal it properly. Since I have metal panels on the ceiling, if any water leaked through the roof panels, it would run right down the ceiling panels to the wall, and I wouldn't know I had a problem until I started seeing water damage.

So, my question is, should I penetrate the side wall and then turn the pipe up, or penetrate the ceiling/roof panels? I know people penetrate the roofs of metal buildings all the time, so what is the proper method and proper materials to use?

I plan to run single wall stove pipe to within 18" of the ceiling, and then transition to insulated stainless chimney pipe to penetrate the ceiling/roof. The stainless has on OD of around 11-12."

The has been worrying me to death so any sound advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you
jonblack

jonblack

I'm guessing that I will need to use some sort of pipe flashing like this Roofjack product.

http://www.sealtite.com/standard-roofjack.htm

Anyone have any experience with this?

Thanks
jonblack

fireguy

Is the roof jack listed for use on chimneys?

jonblack

Thanks for your reply Fireguy. I didn't see it specifically say that it was listed for chimneys. Here are the compound specs:

COMPOUND CHOICES
Standard E.P.D.M covers all applications from -65°F(-55°C) to +275°F(+135°C). Silicone is available for environmental extremes, from -100°F(-74°C) to +500°F (+260°C).

Do you know of a better choice you could recommend?

Thanks again
jonblack

1610 CUB

You should look into using this type pipeimg and the parts that make it work
http://www.simplyplumbing.com/hartcooleyt-8tlcf6.html
http://www.simplyplumbing.com/hartcooleyt-8tlcsc.html
If you use the parts from one place you should end up with a water tight flue pipe

jonblack

Thanks for your reply 1610. Am I missing something or are the links you provided for parts that are meant to be used for a flat roof?

jonblack

1610 CUB

Yes the roof flashing is for 0"in12" to 6"in12". It says so in the description. But its the type of pipe you will need. Its not cheep but its the only pipe I believe your insurance company will allow. That is the first place anyone who wants a wool burner should go "Their Insurance Company"

jonblack

Thanks, I will check with my insurance company. The question I had regarding a flat roof was not about the pitch but about the profile of the roof panels. It looks like the product you linked is for flat profiled roof panels, while my roof panels have a "corrugated" profile.

jonblack

Big Bob

Jonblack,

I assume you have contacted your roof panel supplier/manufacturer?

You might want to square off the problem at the roof penetration. Add
flashing per chimney flashing section in the manufacturers online manual.

A good sheet metal shop could build you a flanged box as high as you need. Provide detail or insulated pipe so they can make the right top to keep it water tight. This metal chimney cover used to be sold at bigger hardware/ builder supply stores ( usually painted to look like red or brown brick). I have not seen them at stores in years.

jonblack

Big Bob

Thank you for your reply. The link I provided in Post #2 of this thread is what the panel manufacturer (Mueller) recommends for roof penetrations. I do not know if they intended this to be used in the case of a chimney. I will call Sealtite, the manufacturer of the RoofJack product and see if this is rated for use on a chimney.

Thanks again
jonblack

fireguy

You should also contact whatever/whoever your town, county uses as an inspection process. If you get an inspection, have a ladder ready and insist the inspector climb the ladder and acutally inspect the job. If they do not climb the ladder, you are not getting a real inspection.

1610 CUB

The flashing I showed it easily installed by using the sane ribbon mastic they used on the lap joints of your metal building. Just cut your hole in the center our your roof panel put down the mastic and screw it down with the same screws used to build it. Ta-DA!

lloydpower

Have you chosen the E.P.D.M. roof jack flashing for your metal roof chimney project?

Thank you
Lloydpower

jonblack

Just thought I would post a followup to this topic. I was able to find enough information to get this project completed. Below I will discuss the materials used so that it may help others.

For the roof flashing I choose a product called DekTite. I found this on the internet and then discovered I could buy it for about $40 at my local fastener house. Here is a link: http://www.itwbuildex.com/dektite.htm

For the sealing I used a product called Sonneborn NP1. It came in multiple colors, and I found one called Stone that matched the color of my roof panels exactly. I think this stuff was about $5 per tube, and one tube did the job.

For fasteners, I used what the flashing manufacturer recommended. I spaced the fasteners at 1.5" inches around the flashing, and I predrilled holes to make the installation easier.

All in all it was an easy project after I did the research. I would do it again in a heartbeat. My wood stove has been burning continuously since I installed it December 31st, 2008, which is about 40 days.

Hope this helps someone else overcome the obstacle of installing chimney pipe sections or other items that penetrate the corrugated rood panels of a metal building.

Take care
jonblack

lhrklr

I'm getting ready to do a very similiar project in a freshly built and foam insulated metal building. Would like to see some details about exactly what I'm gonna need to do and where to purchase some of the supplies. There is a Stove shop within 60 miles of here but I haven't had time to go talk to them yet. Would apprieciate any ideas and details you could share with me. I always do everything myself, kind of a pride thing I guess. I like to make sure it's done right and I make sure to always do that where most contractors don't care. Feel free to email me at lhrklr@sbcglobal.net or Call my cell phone at 940-550-5247 anytime. Thanks