Proper Way to Block Floor Joists at an Angle?

ddawg16

This is a section of my second story floor as it cantilevers out over the 1st wall. There will be a 3.5x11.25 PSL ridge beam on the end that they will butt to....but how should I do the blocking where they cross over the wall?

Do I cut the blocks at an angle so that they are on the same angle as the wall?

Or do I cut them straight and stager them so the block sits partially on the wall?

All of it will be insulated and the bottom that is outside covered in OSB, so I'm not worried about air leaks.

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woodworkbykirk

cut them on the angle. my only question is do you have the floored sheathed in that area yet. if you dont install the blocking first, you can get it in after but its alot harder as it becomes harder to get a nail gun in there to properly fasten and harder to put the peice in place

mrgins

Not sure why you say that, Kirk. Surely the movement of the joists would require perpendicular blocking

joecaption

I would also cut them at an angle. But I would use a palm nailer not a nail gun. Much easer to get in that tight spot.

mrgins

I'd also use 1x2 X blocking, not solid

joecaption

Margins go back and look at the picture. I think the OP is trying to block off the inside to outside area at the top of the wall not install cross bracing inside.

rossfingal

"ddawg16"
Could you please post some more pictures.
The quality of my Video card is not good - minimal resolution.
It looks like there are "beams", "over-running" the angled wall - are the
joists going to continue, along with the "beams"?
Maybe, a picture from outside?!

rossfingal

What's on the other end of the beams/joists?
What's the longest span of the joists?

kwikfishron

At the angle on top of the wall for a fire block if not anything else.

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mrgins

Thanks. I wondered if thats what he meant!

mrgins

Oh yeah, and I vote diagonal

woodworkbykirk

the floor plan should show where teh blocking is required anyway, if it runs along the top of the wall you will have to cut the blocking on the angle. if it shows it running square cut it square..

most engineered floors require following the drawing to the T- all blocking and joists must be done as the drawing shows.. now adding extra will just add strength and time on the # of hours to frame it

Gary in WA

Pretty sure you are in a seismic zone, the blocking should be on your plans. IRC, not CA, calls for blocking at cant's over the bearing wall (at your angle), fully supported AND blocking at intermediate walls also: http://publicecodes.citation.com/ico...002_par025.htm

You also have a "blocked floor" for shear-flow in that zone which requires full perimeter nailing (including the blocking line) to get maximum shear- bottom of page 10: http://www.nibs.org/client/assets/fi...pter4final.pdf

We also need additional blocks every 2' at the first/last perimeter two joist cavities of the running joists for shear. Look closely at the plans.....
Check your post width under that beam, appears small, and be sure you added solid blocking there in the main floor cavity.

Gary

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Evstarr

I would say that if it's for bracing, cut them square and stagger them. If it's for fire-block, then cut them at an angle and follow that top plate.

ddawg16

Here is another view.....not sure why, Photobucket decided to rotate it....so just tilt your head 90 deg..



Oh....and the posts are per plan....

edit....fixed the pic

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