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Old 02-24-2010, 02:45 PM   #16
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JS, you're on the right track so far. I agree with Tscar's advice (& the others) to remove the organic material in the middle of the slab. Replace with 1" or less gravel & use the excess soil to backfill your forms. Soften the edge in the grade beam as well. If you see that the gravel will not stay in place do to gravity, the sidewall of the grade beam is too steep. Sand will not be as easy to use in this situation IMO.

As for the plastic, you normaly lay it directly under the concrete. You can also put 2-3 inches of gravel/sand over it, but be careful not to use sharp stone, as it will easily puncture even 6 mil.

Lastly, as for the 6" exposure, it includes ANY wood, whether it be the treated plate, sheathing, or wood siding.

Good job so far.


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Old 02-24-2010, 05:48 PM   #17
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Old 05-07-2010, 07:14 AM   #18
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Ok guys, I have been working alot lately and haven't had a chance to get to pouring this slab until now. I plan to do it next friday the 14th. I'll have to take a vacation day from work just to do it. If the concrete company works everything up and all the stars line up I guess that will be the day we do it. I have one friend lined up, and maybe another but it looks like it's just going to be me and him. I know it will be rough, but I can't find anybody else who is off of work.

I have everything covered as far as I can tell, but I'm still not positive if I have it like it should be. I have a couple of questions.

1. I removed all of the grass and some of the soil off of the top of the area where the concrete will go. I didn't go 2-3" like someone said but I did get all of the soft stuff that I could. The ground is still fairly soft, but it rained like crazy here a few days ago. I figured it wouldn't hurt to take my landscaping timber and compact it as well as I can. This is the way that I did the footings, and the are pretty solid.

2. Regarding compacting. I guess the best thing to do from what I understand is rent one of the small plate compactors and hit this thing, but they don't rent them for free lol. That's why I have been compacting with my landscaping timber. Instead of worrying with hauling in roadbase or gravel or whatever in and putting it in there, I figured I would just get a little more concrete to take up the extra space. Is there anything wrong with this?

3. The building inspector did come out and check out the shallow footing in the back and he said that everything looked good. He said that since it will only have a small building on top of it, the likelyhood of something happening is really non exisitent.

3. Whether or not to put wire mesh in the slab surface. I have two 1/2 rebars running inside the forms like they told me I had to do, and the building inspector said that since I was going to use fiber in the concrete there was no need for wire mesh in the slab surface area. Others have told me that I was stupid if I don't do it (even if I do use fiber) and some have said that the fiber prevents cracks. I don't know if I should or not. It's hard to come by a small piece of wire mesh. I only need a piece in the area iof 10x14' and I am not buying a whole roll of that stuff just to use that much of it...

4. Is there anything wrong with pouring concrete in damp ground? I don't know what the forcast looks like for next week, but I'm worried about it either raining the day before or the day of. Will this hurt anything?

Really the only issue with the remaining things above is money. I hate to have to spend anymore, but I will if necessary. I want this thing right, but I don't want to overkill it at a cost if I don't need to.

I have the piece of plastic cut, I did lower the step down 1" so that it will be lower than the slab surface, and I also buried a piece of schedule 40 1 & 1/4 PVC pipe for the electrical supply. I burried it 12" deep where it comes in even with the bottom of the footing, bends and comes up through the slab surface near the door thru where the wall base board (bottom plate) will be.
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Old 05-07-2010, 07:30 AM   #19
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Also forgot to mention that I did cut the corners of the inside of the form on an angle to prevent the sharp edge from causing a crack like you guys suggested.


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