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Privacy Fence Post 10' Apart

21K views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  dantheman9727 
#1 ·
I have an existing 6' privacy fence. Had to take down a 20' section to bring in a new shed, and because I wanted to rebuild the existing gate.

Everywhere I read that the posts should be no more than 8' apart. I think due to sagging.

But I have found that a decent size pickup truck can't fit through a 8' opening. So I want a section of the fence to be 10' foot wide. So if I ever need to bring a truck in again, I can take down the section, and the truck can have 10' to drive through.

Any advice on building a section of the fence using 10' stringers instead of 8'? How do I prevent sagging? Should I use double 2x4's? Should I upgrade to 2x6's? Should I use cross-supports?

Thanks,

Chris
 
#2 ·
A 10' gate is pretty huge. Is this a double gate that latches in the middle or is it one 10' long gate? Either way, your gate posts need to be super strong. I used 6x6 CCA on mine and sunk them in a big 4' deep hunk of concrete.

Using bigger pieces of wood will make for a sturdy gate, but won't keep it from sagging one bit. You'll have to cross brace to do that. Personally, I'd use a cable and turnbuckle, from the high corner on the hinge side to the low corner on the latch side. The closer to 45 degrees the cable is, the more effective it will be.

If your gate is a single 10' gate, abandon the cross brace idea. You need a welded frame. My suggestion would be to purchase a pre-made livestock fence panel gate and use tek screws to attach your fence pickets.
 
#4 ·
The 8' oc posts and 8' fence sections you read about are usually about pre-fab fence sections...( made off site and trucked or trailered to site to install.) Typically pickets installed with staples etc....

Most customs fence I have seen if over 8' wide never more than 12'... use a 2x6
top & bottom nail rail...

I have not been involved with any code issues on this...,but I'm sure they exist.

Hint: install wood block under the nail rail on the post for the removable section... It will allow remove and reset with out stressing the wood and fasteners at post or rail... when you need to remove a section.

you must have a big pickem-up truck that the mirrors will not fold close to the body..

good luck ...hope this helps.
 
#5 ·
Ahhh, I get it. Since you're spanning 10', I'd suggest that you use nothing smaller than a 2x6. I think to be safe I'd use 2x8. You could also help keep it from sagging by diagonal bracing the frame in the shape of a big V...The bottom of the V being the middle of the section.

Lift-off gate hinges would be a real slick way to attach it. Plus, they'd keep it from twisting and would let you avoid having to unscrew anything when you need to remove it.
 
#6 ·
Something one of my former neighbors did that I thought was pretty slick: One of the fence posts was removeable. He poured the footing with a partial sleeve for the post, then used concrete anchors and angle brackets to mount the post. When he wanted to get access he detached the two panels on either side of the post, removed the bolts attaching the post to the brackets and low and behold, 16' gap in the fence. The angle brackets were still there but his truck and trailer had plenty of ground clearance.

I think the post went ~2' into the footing and there was a piece of PVC in there to allow it to drain. Sorry I don't remember it more clearly its been 4-5 years since I lived there.
 
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