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Old 10-30-2012, 08:27 AM   #1
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power planer to reduce crown in 2x10....


I am expanding an existing timbertech deck. I'd like the seam between the old decking and new to be flush but am having a hard time finding floor joists(2x10's) that have no crown. The old & new decking will meet at the ends of the decking boards. I've put a 6ft level on the existing decks rim joist and it has no crown. I am attaching the new 2x10 flat against (sandwiched) the rim joist of the old deck and spanning from there. The joist is 14ft long and are the best available in my area. I didn't buy them from Lowes or H.D.

I don't have a table saw and figured a belt sander would take a long time to get the board flat. Would a power planer be my best choice?

Or would I be better of using one of these and nailing it in place once the crown is pulled down? http://www.amazon.com/Titan-Deck-Dev.../dp/B005V2VPVK

Thanks in advance for any feedback


Last edited by dbldee20; 10-30-2012 at 09:27 AM.
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:43 AM   #2
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power planer to reduce crown in 2x10....


Still not clear on why you would want to take the time to get the crown out. Install it and shortly with the top loading and under it's own weigh it should come out level instead of having to deal with a sag.

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Old 10-30-2012, 08:52 AM   #3
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power planer to reduce crown in 2x10....


When I lay my add on floor joist across my end support beams(girders) and up against the existing deck's rim joist I can see that the add on 2x10 has a crown in the center which sits above the existing deck's rim joist. this will raise up the flooring enough to where it sits above the existing flooring in the center of the joist. I'd like the old & new decking to be flush where they meet each other.

I will be nailing this add on floor joist so it's sandwiched against the existing deck's rim joist. The ends of the joist are even with the rim joist but the center is crowned, so the flooring would sit up higher in the middle and not be a flush seam where the flooring meets.

Hope this clarifies it.

Last edited by dbldee20; 10-30-2012 at 09:31 AM.
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:14 AM   #4
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power planer to reduce crown in 2x10....


are you able to install the crowned piece with one end lower initially? in other words, install it (Nail it) starting at one side with the top flush and work across to the middle while leaving the other end loose and lower. once you've worked half of it and reach the middle point and half of the board is nailed good and flush at the top, prop up the other side until the top flushes out and nail the #$%# out of it. boards will bend and plenty of nails will hold them in their place. This is how I deal with crowns sometimes.
another way is to set the board propped at both ends with the middle being high from the crown and put a big screw down into the old rim joist that is left sticking up one inch or so. use a prybar and place the leverage end of the bar with the nail slot around the screw shank and use the leverage of the bar with the resistance of the screw head to pry the crowned joist downward. once you have adequate pressure and the joist is level with the other one, nail it!
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Old 10-30-2012, 11:14 AM   #5
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power planer to reduce crown in 2x10....


Don't think the deck devil would work, looks like a spreader for shoving deck planks.

How much crown is there? Stretch string from end to end on concave side. Measure bow.

Table saw would be no help here with out long straight edge clamped on. Snap chalk line top corner to top corner on convex side skil saw along line.

Sister your new joist to old ends flush, sand down crown with 80 or even 50 grit on belt sander held cross wise to length.

Fasten center of new joist, use jacks or a lot of pipe clamps to pull ends up.

Fasten one end, work towards other, using weight of joist, clamps, jacks to pull it into place.

Do not fasten both ends and try to pull center into place. Work from center end or one end to other, move clamps or jacks a few feet along length at a time lots of screws closley spaced. Working end to end, the free end may be quite a distance from flush when you start. For first few feet you can use free length for extra leverage, just don't let crown get too high or power of leverage move existing joist.

Cut 2 new joist into sections, sister to old with glue and lag bolts or screws all the way thru all 3. Off set joints by at least a couple of feet from each other. Two new may not be flush with each other on top every where. Let high point of one, flush with old, carry load of low point in other.

Remove old joist, replace with a new one with matching crown.

Install new joist crown flush, ends low, shim under low planks. Install new one crown down, shim middle. With enough fasteners to hold it , it shouldn't sag.

Install crown high, sand the planks.

Place it crown up on pilings at ends, hire hippo or rent rhino to balance on it, holding little umbrella, while you dig other footings and pour pilings. May need return engagement when you fasten it to old.
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Last edited by notmrjohn; 10-30-2012 at 11:27 AM.
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Old 10-30-2012, 05:44 PM   #6
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power planer to reduce crown in 2x10....


A planer is designed to remove wood from the wide side of a board. Unless I misunderstand you, you have a crown on the 1-1/2 inch wide side of the board. If you really want to remove the crown, you can do it with a hand plane, or an electric power jointer. Using the hand plane is a little tricky, takes some practice, but it certainly works. Snap a chalk line so you can see how much to remove.
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Old 10-31-2012, 09:09 AM   #7
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power planer to reduce crown in 2x10....


Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel Holzman View Post
A planer is designed to remove wood from the wide side of a board. Unless I misunderstand you, you have a crown on the 1-1/2 inch wide side of the board. If you really want to remove the crown, you can do it with a hand plane, or an electric power jointer. Using the hand plane is a little tricky, takes some practice, but it certainly works. Snap a chalk line so you can see how much to remove.
I've never used a power planer before, but i figured I could use it like this planing the crown edge of the 2x10 ...




Thanks for all the good info guys. I appreciate it
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Old 10-31-2012, 09:50 AM   #8
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power planer to reduce crown in 2x10....


Unless your building cabinets or furniture a power plane is a tool your really not going to use much. Consider it as a hand held jointer, a regression, hand plane to power jointer back to hand jointer.

You'll probably get more use from belt sander. Cross sanding that crowned joist with heavy grit will take it down in no time. Ripping the crown off with skil saw would be even faster.

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Look at the nail, not the hammer. Watch the fence, not the blade.
If you hook your thumb over your belt you won't hit it with the hammer or leave it layin on the saw table.
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