Post detail for raised covered deck
I'm interested in building a covered deck off my first floor level. The new deck will be around 8' above grade since I have a walkout basement.
Looking at options:
A) Use 16' posts to go from the new pier footings all the way up to the new roof beams and bolt the deck beams to the posts
B) Use 16' posts to go from the new pier footings all the way up to the new roof beams and inlet the deck beams to the posts. Does a tight inlet for the deck beams reduce how much roofload the post can support?
C) Use 8' posts to build the deck (with the deck beams let into the post) and then somehow set 8' roof posts directly over the top of the deck posts. Any recommended fasteners for this approach? I'm in midwest, so 90mph wind zone.
D) Any other ways you have done it?
I've seen many elevated covered decks but never up close to where I could see the post detail. Anyone got any diagrams of this detail or know where I could find some?
And where would I find straight 16' 6x6 posts? Do you guys like Cedar or treated or steel or other posts for this situation?
If steel, do you have special posts fabricated that you can bolt the deck beams to at midpoint and roof beams at the top?
While I really don't see a Problem with either A), or B)....
The fabbed Steel will No Doubt be the Strongest,+ for Me would be the Easiest....
I have the exact same question and wonder if anyone else has more input. Jogr, did you build your deck yet?
Most people will feel steel is best, with welded tabs for mounting cross beams. And it is.
However, design "B" has a rather large flaw. Never inlet long beams like that... especially so near the moment of inertial rotation - the center. (Google "Moment of Inertia") While it is more than proper to cross-tie a long beam there, almost necessary, it is the "inleting" that is dangerous. You would be weakening the post at its most vulnerable point. (Where do sticks break when you bend them? In the middle.)
Design "A" has a portion of the same potential problem that would be created when you drill holes at that same point... although not as bad.
Design "C" is not really the way you want to go. You will have built-in a problem area with that joint. Just one more place that could eventually work loose from wind movement, and perhaps fail.
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