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Old 10-30-2009, 09:32 PM   #1
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Default porch Flooring

rebuilding my porch and not sure what floor material to go with. The boards are running perpindicular to the house and the porch is covered. Wanted to go with T&G 4" and paint it because I like the look, but am afraid of all the associated problems, cuping, painting, etc. Any opinions out there?

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Old 10-31-2009, 10:50 AM   #2
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Buy good material and paint and you won't have a problem.
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Old 10-31-2009, 12:01 PM   #3
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Thanks for the reply, I guess good is a relative term, like souther pine?
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Old 10-31-2009, 12:09 PM   #4
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pbert...vertical grain doug fir, primed all 6 sides.
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Old 10-31-2009, 02:35 PM   #5
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Thanks, how about nailing? would a floor nailer work?

PS you a roadie or MTB?
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Old 11-01-2009, 09:34 AM   #6
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pbert...I use 8d galv finish nails thru the tounge.

roadie or mtb?
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Old 11-01-2009, 10:13 AM   #7
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I don't want this to sound as if an advertisement, I'm just satisfied with this product for porch woods. I first saw this on a very large wooden porch on new home construction. Then when I bought my new cargo trailer, I wanted to paint the floor with something durable and slip-resistant. Sherwin-Williams Porch and Deck Enamel was used on this high dollar home's wooden porch so I checked into it. There had been an additive put into it for slip resistance which was very small (I believe they said glass) beads. This product has tolerated the foot traffic within my work trailer and I have appreciated the slip resistance more than once. The granules are very small and can hardly be felt with the palm of my hand, but they work. I'm sure other paint suppliers have similar products, so maybe check into theirs also. Thanks, David
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Old 11-01-2009, 03:22 PM   #8
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12 penny: did you just use a regular nailer or floor nailer?

PS as in cyling? I read that you like cycling
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Old 11-02-2009, 06:15 AM   #9
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over wood, we like udf-21,,, sher-wms has shark-grip avail ( ground polycarbonte ) OR you can still buy garnet at the apron stores.

we do use glass beads when sealing our dec conc overlay projects successfully.
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Old 11-02-2009, 09:31 AM   #10
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pbert...roadie for sure. Faster.

No ..I dont use a gun or a floor nailer. 8D galv finish, a hammer and a nail set to flush them up with the tongue.

I've taken them apart where they even used a galv common nail, just set below the surface.
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Old 11-02-2009, 01:12 PM   #11
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12 penny...... roadie here as well, like to MTB as well. One last question, and this may sound stupid, but should I make the boards all one length (deck is 6'-2") or can I buy it in boxes with various lengths? like flooring?
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Old 11-02-2009, 01:29 PM   #12
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pbert...doesnt come in boxes. Go to a lumber yard and find out what lengths are available to you. I think they normally come 16'. Then work out how those lengths work best for you.

For instance, with a 16' piece, you get two lengths at 6'2" and a leftover at 44". You can use that short piece to start another row. To finish the row you need a piece 30" long which leaves you 14" of waste from two 16's.

It depends on joist spacing measured from the wall. You'll have to land your cuts on a joist so your pieces will be larger or smaller as required.

Am I making any sense?
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Old 11-02-2009, 02:03 PM   #13
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yes, thanks,
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Old 11-02-2009, 02:38 PM   #14
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Yep, Thanks, IRC--Shark-grip was the material added to the paint. pbert--As far as the length of the material, what is the dimension from your wall to the end of the the boards? You may be able to buy material so that you do not have any joints in the runs, if this is what you want. You will have more waste depending on your dimensions, but I think it makes a better looking porch floor when running perpendicular to a wall. Good Luck, David
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Old 11-03-2009, 08:33 PM   #15
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12 penny,,,,,,FYI I found a product manufactured by Trout River, it is T&G and is pre-treated and double primed ready for paint, it is not that much more than the normal wood either. Have you heard of it? Thanks for your help.
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