However, there are a few variations to the above plan I'm considering. I could use some help with on the design. Instead of a slanted roof, I was thinking it would be cool to have a flat roof that doubled as a balcony. Something like this:
My daughter likes the idea of a rope ladder to get up there, so I do not have to worry about stairs, but I'm not sure how to do the railing. Nor am I sure how to make it strong enough so that it doesn't collapse with a couple kids jumping around on top.
Also, I'm undecided if I want to put in glass windows and a door, or if it would be better to simply have openings. Any thoughts on this?
Finally, I will be building it on a slope. What would be the best way to level it?
Good luck with a flat roof, looks cool but it's going to leak and cause damage below it.
Kids could care less about windows, leave them out or buy shed windows, just cheap single pained windows.
Question: Would leaving windows out also lead to water damage? I guess if I have the roof over hang far enough, only the most sideways of rains would get in, but still. Should I be concerned?
if you buy windows, consider changing out the glass for lexan or plexiglass or even safety glass. don't want the glass to break with jagged edges .....
Joe is correct about the flat roof, construction will get a lot more complicated in keeping the water out, you could always build a small deck/balcony adjacent to the playhouse as your next project .....
Most lumber yards now sell rubber roofing in small amounts (EPDM). It stands up to minimal traffic but you can put on 2 layers, or build a floating deck over it. It isn't overly expensive, but the adhesive can be pricey, but for a playhouse you can probably use contact cement. Windows should be tempered glass only for safety. One of the vinyl rail systems that Agent Orange sells might work. Pictures of the site might help.
Your rafters, actually joists could overhang at the ends, rails over the walls, cut tops at an angle outside the rails to slope them away. Rails are fairly easy to seal water out from rubber.
depends on how long you want it to last, and how much money you want to spend ... anything you can do to keep water away from the wood means it will last longer and have less chance of mold growth
You could get a roll of 90#, a stiff brush (the ones that go on the end of a mop handle), and a bucket of mop grade roofing cement and it wouldn't leak. 1/4" : 12" pitch, overlap the seam 6".Glue down your lower piece, pop a chalk line on it and be careful about getting the cement too close to it. Glue it straight to the plywood.
That's not going to leak within 10 years. If it does leak a bit, slap a patch on it. The $50 roof, and no rooftop slip and slide like you'd make with EPDM or any other single ply. Safer for them to be walking on - but be careful not to get the asphalt cement all over it when you're installing!
I wouldn't put housewrap on it unless I had it laying around. You could get some 15# felt though, and use it if you shingle the roof too, it's up to you - but don't shingle a flat roof
Your want the roof to slope so water does not end up falling where the door is.
Lumber is sold in a Min. of 8' lenghts so why would you make it 6 X 6?
Make sure to use pressure treated lumber for the floor joist.
There going to need to be a minimum of 6 X 's.
At least 6" over hang would be good on all sides.
Note that I won't be using siding board as they are in the plan. I already have plywood siding that I would like to use. Since I already have it, I would like to use it to save money.
I checked all of that all ready with the local government. I don't need one where I live, surprisingly. It's not big enough to require one. I had a harder time with my HOA. Had to fill out a bunch of paper work, provide a copy of my building plan, get signatures from neighbors, and wait for the board to approve it.
I have the four walls up now. Before I put on the roof, I have a question:
Three of the corners of the structure come together flush, with the wall frames in direct contact at the bottom all the way up to the top. But one of the corners, while touching at the bottom, has about a half inch gap at the top due to the wood not being perfectly straight. Should I squeeze the top together, and then nail them together (via nail plates) so that wall frames are flush from top to bottom, against the natural curve of the wood, or is it ok to leave them with a gap?
Thanks!
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