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DangerMouse 08-29-2008 12:34 PM

perimeter beam cutting
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hi guys, i have this 2x12 running all around the inside and outside of the new addition. this section is only 5 feet, but it seems to have sagged an inch since the contractor finished the roof. there are no nails in the 1 inch at the bottom, i'm hoping it'll be ok to saw it off flush for the drywalling? also, i liked kc's idea of a lighted soffit to hide the 2x12, but it's going to show in 2 bedrooms, the kitchen, the bathroom, and this one on two sides of the dining room. any more suggestions on how others have worked around this problem? that's an awful lot of soffits... also, i need ideas on the ceiling part, which also needs to be leveled out somehow before i drywall it. furring? thankx!


Termite 08-29-2008 01:26 PM

If you rip the bottom edge off that 2x12, you nullify the grade of the lumber. I'd advise against it.

Your design is fundamentally flawed if it sagged an inch. I'm not seeing direct bearing under the 2x12 at the connection to the post, and I guarantee that is problematic. There should not be a shear connection holding up large portions of roof...There should be a 2x6 vertically underneath it all the way to the foundation.

buletbob 08-29-2008 02:27 PM

Can i Ask why he ran the 2x around the in and outside of the house.?? BOB

DangerMouse 08-29-2008 02:32 PM

because that's what the architect drew up to hold the new rafters and roof i guess, 6x6s 42" down to 'crete pads and the gov. agent approved it. "pole barn style" they called it..... and $25,000 later i have this mess to clean up.


buletbob 08-29-2008 02:39 PM


Originally Posted by MdangermouseM (Post 152990)
because that's what the architect drew up to hold the new rafters and roof i guess, 6x6s 42" down to 'crete pads and the gov. agent approved it. "pole barn style" they called it..... and $25,000 later i have this mess to clean up.


Understood, I suppose the pole barn construction saved on the foundation??? Guess your in a good freeze and thaw climate.
Is there any way to jack it up, I can't see what is there now holding this up.

OK I see ! I went back to the picture, pry the 2x from the 6x6 cut the two nails with a sawzall blade. jack the beam up and re secure. i would install a 2x6 under the 2x.
measure the other end of the room and then measure the end that is in question. if the measurement is the same then there is a problem with the pole sliding deeper into the hole. (if there is a framed floor.) or the weight of the roof , dropping the bundles on the roof might of caused the 2x to drop being its only being held with nails!!. BOB

DangerMouse 08-29-2008 02:50 PM

i too thought of trying to jack it up, but with the floor joists already in, it'd be a real problem. grind the heads off the 4/6" ringshanks they used, pull the beam off and remount after jacking maybe? that is only a 5' span between 6x6s there in that corner so i wouldn't worry about it collapsing if i did one side at a time. funny thing, outSIDE, the roof is level. hmmmmmmmm if i raised it, it'd shift the new roof to old roof panels an inch. THAT could REALLY be a problem!! this place is a nightmare.
"shoot me now! shoot me now!"


ps there are 6 ringshanks at each end of that 5' beam and the same on the one outside. this IS odd because my architect had me put 3/4" BOLTS thru the 6x6s to mount the perimeter floor joist 2x12s not nails. you'd think the ROOF with all the snow weight would have been the same. but what do i know?

buletbob 08-29-2008 03:26 PM

if its going to create a problem with the roof tie in then could you drop the header on the other end to level it out.
did you measure to see if the post sank.??

DangerMouse 08-29-2008 03:39 PM

no, because the next one is a 12 footer mounted to 3 posts and it IS level and ok. just this corner sagged. oh and the one shown is 6' not 5.
but i don't see whereas it makes any difference.


DangerMouse 08-29-2008 03:41 PM

i'm thinking the first guy did not put in enough crete and it cracked and sagged. maybe the second guy had to shim it to make the lines match on the roof and didn't notice the sag. i didn't see that part go in.


shumakerscott 08-29-2008 03:51 PM

I'm sorry for the title of my post but it is how I feel for what you are showing and how much you paid is a crime! What the hell kind of a cracker box job did you have done? Again sorry but that is just crap. DIY all the way! Don't pay for others who will take you for your money. Buy a book, take a class, buy the right tools, go to You Tube, what ever. Don't get ripped off. I know many people don't have the skills but could if they just tried. If you screw it up at least it didn't cost you anything but your labor. When they screw it up your out a lot more. I will get off my soap box now, sorry for the flair up. SHU

DangerMouse 08-29-2008 04:01 PM

ok, look... the gov. did a lein thingy, sooo, TECHnically i did not pay for the roof over, but the roof is ALL i got! no more funding for the walls, floors, windows, doors, elec. plumbing, drywall, etc. i had to redo all the elec. and plumbing b4 we could move in so it's not like i don't know somewhat what i'm doing, i just lack the terminology to ask you guys when i need a hand. i've fixed about anything you could think of over the years, well pumps, windows to doors, new attic room at the old house, etc. but now i have a very large undertaking to finish and my permit only lasts so long. heh heh

DangerMouse 08-29-2008 04:16 PM

this place was a mobile home with a huge addition, (master bedroom and living room) that the guy never pulled a permit for. i found many things he did wrong and had to fix electrically and burst copper pipes to replace with pvc and move into the living area instead of the freezing cold in winter crawl space b4 it'd pass inspection. now there are 6x6s all around the trailer. 6' beyond at the front, 3 feet on the length, and 4 ft. at the back. the new roof is built to match up with the old roof of the addition only, basically covering the entire trailer. as i put up the next walls for the new bedrooms, kitchen, etc. i will remove the trailer from the inside. funfun. i started with the dining room because it's a separate entity from the trailer, just an opening i built to give me access from the trailer to the new room. (crap door on trailer side, new pocket door installed on new side.) 15x20 gives us room to move furniture and stuff into when we rip out the trailer. a huge undertaking for one man, but i do what i have to for my family.


shumakerscott 08-29-2008 11:11 PM

Thanks for clairifying your situation. I know what you mean by having to work with what you started with. My place should have been torn down in the opinion of all the driveby experts. Best of luck and have you thought of having some sort of a house party to get some help on the big projects? I am planning a cement party when it comes time for my floor. Beer and BBQ helps. Again, good luck with your project. SHU

DangerMouse 08-30-2008 08:58 AM

thanks shu, but the only friend i have is my lead guitar player from my old band. we swap work all the time, (i fix his stuff, he comes out and helps pour cement, etc.) but other than him, i'm on my own here. good idea though, if i had the people to invite!


DangerMouse 08-30-2008 09:06 PM

i still have no viable solution to this, anyone else have any ideas? maybe a new thread? hasn't ANYone ever had a 2x12 inside and out to hold the rafters and found a good way to hide them? i simply refuse to believe the GOV. let them do this if no-one has ever done it before.
and how do i fix this screw up they did? the sagging beam??


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