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-   -   patio door jamb extends past flush-with-wall (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/patio-door-jamb-extends-past-flush-wall-75765/)

rtoni 07-09-2010 01:01 PM

patio door jamb extends past flush-with-wall
 
hi - trimming out a patio door where the existing jamb (wood, vinyl clad) extends into the room about an inch - not flush with the interior wall

thinking about
1) simple molding e.g. quarter round against the side of the jamb, against the wall, and leaving it at that.
2) some kind of ornate casing butting against jamb, on the wall (thicker, heavier) - same idea as molding but just a bit nicer to look at?
3) use standard / typical casing + reveal on the jamb, & ripping something to fill the approx 1" gap left between the outer edge of casing and wall

what would you folks recommend in this situation?

apologies - I'm sure I saw a similar question / discussion here a long time ago and I can't seem to locate that thread...:(

Ron6519 07-10-2010 09:47 AM

You could build out the wall around the door and trim it out with regular molding. This will always look like some mistake, but short of putting in the correct frame size, there's not much you can do.
Why does this door protrude into the room so much?
Ron

rtoni 07-12-2010 10:18 AM

long answer - I'm not sure - I was told the door was built for a 2x6 frame which is what it's installed in - it has integrated brick mold which sits flush against outside sheathing, etc. I think it might have been designed for a wall with add'l 1" foamboard on the outside - just guessing - does that make sense? anyway I got a deal on it and it's a decent looking solid door so I grabbed it up.

short answer - DIY :001_unsure:

kwikfishron 07-12-2010 10:45 AM

I’d set the door so it’s correct on the inside and get rid of the brick mould. You could then notch some 2x trim to fit. From the street it would look fine and only 1 in a 100 could tell something was a miss looking up close.

A door for a 2x6 wall will have a jamb depth of 6 9/16” if your's is any more than that it was a custom order that got returned or not picked up which is probably why you got the good deal.

rtoni 07-12-2010 11:34 AM

thanks kwikfishron - door is now sitting in the opening, threshold caulked underneath, etc. (not knowing any better - and thinking I could just work the inside). I can pester my "helper" to come back again to pull the screws and coax it back out a bit (threshold probably be sticky now), rework the outside, etc. I don't wanna try moving it myself - or my next post would probably be advice on separating door parts from various body parts...

Since I generally work alone in this location, I though about just taking the saw to the jamb inside as it sits - only hesitation is the vinyl cladding over the wood - I'd probably make a mess. I wonder if I could just cut it back, and if I butcher it a bit, maybe make a "new" jamb out of some 1x, sort if sister that material to the inside of the existing jamb (flush with wall), add casing + paint to cover over everything?

I think your plan is better but just trying to get my old brain and my sore back around all the options. Live and learn :icon_sad:

drtbk4ever 07-12-2010 11:49 AM

Did you say the brickmold is sitting "flush" to the sheeting? Is that the finished wall sheeting or the bare sheeting?

The brickmold on my windows extends past my vinyl siding by maybe a half inch or so. When you combine that with the thickness of the siding and j-channel, there is your inch.

rtoni 07-12-2010 12:08 PM

Hi Bill - that's the "finished" sheathing - no siding on this place for a while (maybe never) - exterior is chalet style plywood with cedar stain and small battens on the seams. it's more of a camp than a house (sort of in between). The brick mold is a nice contrast (IMHO...)

so I got the right door maybe but I should have used 1x2 or something around the outside opening and butted the brick mold against that...?

:wallbash:

drtbk4ever 07-12-2010 01:27 PM

Maybe I should have used the words protudes instead of extends. So my brickmold is therefore not flush with the siding but protudes by about a quarter to half inch.

rtoni 07-12-2010 01:42 PM

no worries - I got the picture - sounds like your install is what I should have done and what others here suggested - flush inside and then deal with the necessary trim / work on the exterior, whatever that may be (siding, etc.)

Sometimes I get myself into trouble. Looks like I might be re-working a door...

kwikfishron 07-12-2010 02:18 PM

If there is enough room between the top of the door jamb and the header to be able to tip the door back, you cloud have helper hold the door and with a flat bar and a “very sharp” knife or a sawzall you should be able to work the threshold up and carefuly cut the caulking.

Ron6519 07-12-2010 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rtoni (Post 468503)
no worries - I got the picture - sounds like your install is what I should have done and what others here suggested - flush inside and then deal with the necessary trim / work on the exterior, whatever that may be (siding, etc.)

Sometimes I get myself into trouble. Looks like I might be re-working a door...

The door was put in incorrectly. Take it out and reset it properly. Brick molding is 1 1/4" thick at the outside. It should be sitting on the sheathing, not next to it.
I hope you don't do this for a living.
Ron

rtoni 07-12-2010 02:33 PM

if I recall it was a bit tight - I think on my next visit I'll have to double check. hope I have better luck with "sharp knife" than I do with door jambs. Not sure at what point (frustration) I might just reach for the saw.

rtoni 07-12-2010 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron6519 (Post 468535)
The door was put in incorrectly. Take it out and reset it properly. Brick molding is 1 1/4" thick at the outside. It should be sitting on the sheathing, not next to it.
I hope you don't do this for a living.
Ron

if I did this for a living I would be either moonlighting at something else or starving

the brick mold is on the sheathing - it was integrated into / part of the door when the door went in - slid it back in the rough opening until the brick mold was contacting the sheathing. At that point the jamb extends inside. If I move the door outward (inside jamb flush) the jamb with brick mold will sit approx 1" off the sheathing. This is the way the door was built.


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