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Old 02-05-2012, 03:18 PM   #16
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patio cover/roof footing question


Abracaboob, do you mean set up the string running vertically and plumb up through the sonotube and terminating some distance above in order to use as a guide for positioning the post base? This sounds like another good idea.

Deck, good point about underground wiring, plumbing etc. My patio where I will be installing the pergola already has pavers that are about 2 inches thick so another aspect of this project is to take out the pavers at the site of the future footing, dig the hole, pour the footing etc. I spoke to a masonry guy yesterday about pouring the footings. He proposed to pour the footings to the same level as the bottom edge of the pavers. Then later the after the posts are secured it would be easily to cut the pavers to fit around the post for a neat look. If the footing is poured at the top edge of pavers or just slightly above (my original plan) it would be difficult or impossible to make the arcing cuts in the pavers so that they nicely fit around the footing. Of course the downside of this guy's suggestion is that the post will be more subject to moisture though it should drain off and dry relatively quickly since water should percolate through the patio base (stone dust) very quickly. Plus the post in a CBSQ post base sits at least a half inch above the concrete. Anyway, I would be interested to hear what others think is the best way to do this.

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Old 02-05-2012, 03:21 PM   #17
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patio cover/roof footing question


Oops, I meant Abracaboom!
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Old 02-05-2012, 06:04 PM   #18
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patio cover/roof footing question


Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveinMD View Post
Abracaboob, do you mean set up the string running vertically and plumb up through the sonotube and terminating some distance above in order to use as a guide for positioning the post base? This sounds like another good idea.
Abracaboob? Do you have a breast fixation?

The string lines I mean are horizontal, to keep the post bases in line and square with each other at the corners. For plumb, you just need a small level after the post base is in the concrete.


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Originally Posted by SteveinMD View Post
Deck, good point about underground wiring, plumbing etc. My patio where I will be installing the pergola already has pavers that are about 2 inches thick so another aspect of this project is to take out the pavers at the site of the future footing, dig the hole, pour the footing etc. I spoke to a masonry guy yesterday about pouring the footings. He proposed to pour the footings to the same level as the bottom edge of the pavers. Then later the after the posts are secured it would be easily to cut the pavers to fit around the post for a neat look. If the footing is poured at the top edge of pavers or just slightly above (my original plan) it would be difficult or impossible to make the arcing cuts in the pavers so that they nicely fit around the footing. Of course the downside of this guy's suggestion is that the post will be more subject to moisture though it should drain off and dry relatively quickly since water should percolate through the patio base (stone dust) very quickly. Plus the post in a CBSQ post base sits at least a half inch above the concrete. Anyway, I would be interested to hear what others think is the best way to do this.
I don't like that plan at all. Better to use the sorrounding pavers as the top of your form, so that you pour your concrete to the top of the pavers and the top part of your footing is paver-like. That way your posts will be above the ground, and you won't have to cut any pavers around anything.
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Old 02-05-2012, 08:17 PM   #19
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patio cover/roof footing question


OK, I understand now. The pavers are various shades of pale red which would contrast with the concrete. But as you say if the pavers were used as the top part of the form then you would end up with a square/rectangular opening which wouldn't look too bad. Thanks for your suggestion.
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Old 02-23-2012, 08:46 PM   #20
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patio cover/roof footing question


Deck said:

"Also, if you are nailing anything I would predrill with a 3/32 bit. The reason being pressure treated wood at Home Depot is really FAT and will shrink. I'm sure there's a better way to put that but I don't know the right word. And make sure the post is plumb/level in the base before you predrill each hole. The way I'm doing it is predrill a hole, drive in a nail, recheck plumb, predrill another hole, recheck plumb, etc. etc."

I was worried about that. How to keep the post plumb while you nail it into the post base. But according to the Simpson site the national code now allows you to use Simpson screws with a lot of their connectors, including the ABA post bases. I have a feeling it would be easier to keep it plumb using screws than nails.

Mick
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Old 02-24-2012, 02:10 AM   #21
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Deck said:

"Also, if you are nailing anything I would predrill with a 3/32 bit. The reason being pressure treated wood at Home Depot is really FAT and will shrink. I'm sure there's a better way to put that but I don't know the right word. And make sure the post is plumb/level in the base before you predrill each hole. The way I'm doing it is predrill a hole, drive in a nail, recheck plumb, predrill another hole, recheck plumb, etc. etc."

I was worried about that. How to keep the post plumb while you nail it into the post base. But according to the Simpson site the national code now allows you to use Simpson screws with a lot of their connectors, including the ABA post bases. I have a feeling it would be easier to keep it plumb using screws than nails.

Mick
It depends on the application. The post bases I used were for deck support. When you have a freestanding structure like a pergola or something you may need to go into concrete and use those bases that have to be partially embedded in the concrete after pour are secured with SDS screws if I'm not mistaken. That's usually a 5/32 predrill I think if I recall what their engineers told me. Actually they said predrilling isn't required for those screws but I insisted.

Plumb was difficult. You'll need to secure it and recheck continually.

As far as predrilling the nails go I've come to discover nobody does all that stuff that I did when I secured my posts. Hopefully mine are better off for it though! It certainly moved less during install because I predrilled. And what that guy said about using tapcons is on the money. You would position your base on the bolt and secure it with the right torque. Personally I'd go a little bit more than recommended but not too much. If you do too much then the flaps overlap like this:



Then there are two small tiny holes on the floor of the post base (either side of the bolt hole) and if you widen them a little (they need to be widened before securing -- not shown in the pic below) then you can use a masonry bit to predrill and then use tapcons. If the tapcons lock up and won't go in all the way just cut them off with enough height that they still matter but will not get in the way of the post as it sits on the base. Remember all they're for is making sure that base doesn't move to the left or right during install. I call them installation holes now.

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Last edited by Deck; 02-24-2012 at 02:31 AM.
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